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Civilian paint/decal finishing.

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  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Seattle
Posted by Papa-Echo-64 on Tuesday, November 29, 2005 4:09 PM

Master?  No..just crazy...there iz a difference.

Glad to help!

 

Straighten up and fly right.....
  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Cardinal USA
Posted by AirMedical on Tuesday, November 29, 2005 9:39 AM
PE64 and Gino,

Thanks guys!  That's what I thought I remembered from the past replys but wasn't sure.  I always enjoy looking at your work and admiring it.  I'm just a simple cut and dry kinda guy but love to hear how to's from the masters.

Cheers,
John :-)

-The more I'm around humans, the more I prefer the company of birds and animals -Even though the voices aren't real, they have some pretty good ideas. -Here's your sign!
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Tuesday, November 29, 2005 9:26 AM
Instead of Johnson's/Future as a topcote, you can use the same glosscote that you applied before as well.  The key is the gloss undercote that the decal is going to adhere to.  The smoother this is, the better looking decals you will have. 

Gino P. Quintiliani - Field Artillery - The KING of BATTLE!!!

Check out my Gallery: https://app.photobucket.com/u/HeavyArty

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Seattle
Posted by Papa-Echo-64 on Tuesday, November 29, 2005 8:58 AM

Howdy Air med!

The easiest way would be to finish your kit in a GLOSS coat ( your already one step ahead of what most modelers need to do there....its a bugger going from a flat finish, then to a clear high gloss - just to apply decals ) water slide decals MUST be applied to the smoothest finish possible so that you do not get what they call 'silvering' - thats when you see ghost areas under the decal. Now...if your decals are 'of good quality' and if your finish is very smooth you should not need to use any decals set treatment, enamals are better for decals....even 100% cured acrylics 'can' be effected by water slide decals.  Most aftermarket decal products are of better quality and have thinner decal film. If there are lotz of fine rivets and panel lines then I suggest letting the clear coats or paint DRY for at least 48 hours if not more then you should be safe to use a decal setting solution.

NOW.....your still going to see the 'outline' of the decal...OH NO!!!  nah.....that is NO problemo!

Thats when you get yourself some good old fashioned Johnson floor wax or what ever and air brush it right out of the bottle ( no mixing needed ) and in a few coats your slowly building up a clear finish that will eventually be even or a tad above the decal itself and blamo! your done! ( let the coats dry at least one hour before applying the next....the more time the better )

Hope that helps!

Keep the sunny side up.

Straighten up and fly right.....
  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Cardinal USA
Civilian paint/decal finishing.
Posted by AirMedical on Tuesday, November 29, 2005 8:10 AM
Hey Gang,

I was trying to find my prior post regarding painting and decaling before the web change so I'm posting again.

Per civilian paint scheme.  (Gloss coats and decal finishing)

I'll be having some custom decals printed up (Alps) and would like to know the best method for decaling to get the painted on look without the decal film appearance after application. 
I've used the microscale decal solution back in the late 80's to early 90's with 50/50 results. 
I'm also looking to apply a gloss coat for the first time to give a nice clean finish.  Any concern of attack on decals with using the gloss coat?  I'll have some decalling on the windows as well. 

Thanks in advance.
Happy Holidays!
John

-The more I'm around humans, the more I prefer the company of birds and animals -Even though the voices aren't real, they have some pretty good ideas. -Here's your sign!
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