HELP!!!!!!!!

Thats too cool....what ever it takes!.....My two Girls enter kits in local Model contest...they have a blast!

Tonight I sanded the overhead sky window and chin bubble window openings flat and even and did the same with the kit clear parts......then I glued styrene to the edges of the CLEAR parts....in a couple of days I will sand and putty these parts....I'm adding extra plastic to the edges to the original's so they will be slightly OVERSIZED for making new thermal replacement parts.

I will do the same for the windshields so they all look uniform and alot closer to scale.

Thank you, Troy,

I've tried about everything conceivable since you brought it up way back before I done the Aurora restoration. I had made a plaster pattern mold to press aluminum foil into.... well, the pattern was so fine it wouldn't quite let go of the foil when I was pulling it out, and proceeded in throwing fit with a hammer... resulting in the plaster mold turning into white powder out by the picnic shelter!!!

Later on that evening, I found a small, but beautiful soundproofing pattern pressed into a piece of notebook paper on the kitchen table! Come to find out, my youngest daughter had sat and rubbed the pattern into the paper with her thumbnail while watching "Daddy" return that plaster mold to the dust from which it came! I experimented with it a few times, and by george it worked!

You know, sometimes when us "Experts" can't figure something out, we need to slow down and consider the problem on simpler terms.

"Upon initial contact, you have received Information Charlie"

HOLY CUPCAKES Batman!

I tried the paper trick last night and WOW! I like it!
I think I will use paper cuz it's easier to glue and paint than foil.

Thanks all!!!

You Guys ROCK!!
There is way too much talent in this room!



So I will step out for a bit!.....he he he.....

TP & Paper Towels do serve a valuable role when doing a diorama, however, by mimicking a canvas drop cloth.

Cut and position it onto the desired surface (such as windscreen covering or canvas over a stack of ammo boxes, etc), then spray on water from old Windex bottle, let dry, then paint OD Green.

When paint dries, the TP is rigid and displays very realistic folds/wrinkles. I actually attempted to use some for soundproofing material, but it must be shaped/textured while wet, and it is VERY fragile at that stage! One little tear, and it's junk..... plus, the surface dries a bit too rough to resemble soundproofing.

The paper really provides the best post painted texture, isn't prone to wrinkling, dry washes beautifully, very plyable, adhere's nicely, and is readily available!

As I said, there maybe other thing's one could use, but plain old paper works good for me.

"Upon initial contact, you have received Information Hotel"

TP or Kleenex will work if you apply a coating of Elmer's and let it begin to set up before you apply the impression of the soundproof bafflling. I've used this technique to make bedrolls and tarps for years. - Ed

I would keep the TP in the Bathroom and the Paper towls in the kitchen mate!....They are good for cleanning yer paint brushes ..but way too soft and thin to paint, not to mention they would not hold any shape at all.

I'm at my Wifes folks place right now so I can't mess with Hookers plans yet....though it seem like it will work just fine!....I can't believe I did not think of those....

ya know, I wonder if you could use damp TP or even Paper towel as well?

PE....

Yep, common office type paper. Incredibly basic, but it absorbs the paint well and duplicates a *material* finish very well.

"Upon initial contact, you have received Information Echo"

FAR OUT! looks cool Hooker!

When you say 'printer paper' do you mean common office type printing paper?

Troy,

I've always used either foil or printer paper (provides a better cloth-like finish) to replicate the quilt pattern in the soundproofing.

I'm sure there are other, and more expensive ways of duplicating it, but this provides accurate results.



To make a large piece of quilted soundproofing material;
on a HARD rubber base, lay the material you're going to use down, use a ruler and scribe the pattern in your material using your thumbnail (if you have one that's not chewed to the quick by now)

I know, it's very simple and cheap, but it works.

"Upon initial contact, you have received Information Delta"

The only reason I want to replace the SP ......cuz is in this kit that back wall has the upper part of the 'troop seat' molded in....yuck!

BUT! at least it is very accurate! I found my (5 pound) U.S. Navy 1967 Bell helicopter maintenace book man is this thing loaded!

What is it with these OLDER kits that were very well researched?......those older Revell 1/32 scale Nam helos from the late 60's are very accurate as well.

I like the heavy foil thing...thanks!.....funny thats how I did my floor....maybe with a strieght edge I could embose it over some thin foam or something kinda soft to get the right look?

I will goof around with that tonight if I have the time and let ya'll know.....maybe with some pics.

Papa Echo 64 coming in hot......over and out.

I was going to suggest burnishing alum foil over a section of rear wall to get that pattern. but lead foil would work just as well.

Did ya check in the architectural model section of your local drafting supply co.?

How arre you at sewing?

Hi PE-64,

Try scoring thin lead sheeting into that quilted diamond effect with a craft knife and rule, then cut , bend into shape and paint.

I saw it done on a 1/72 Danish Navy Lynx in one of the Model mags a few months back and it looked pretty realistic.

E-mail me and I'll scan in a couple of pics to show you what I mean.

robmonfea@hotmail.com.

Cheers,

Rob M.

PE-64,

The bare walls are aluminum sheeting. Good question regarding the soundproofing. I'm not sure what the heck to use! I've always used the molded in detail, but I guess on a 24th scale Huey, that's kinda hard!