what huey to make

John pretty much hit the nail on the head!  Invest in some new pilots seats and if you build a "slick" the M-60 door gun set from Cobra Company.  The old Revell Kit can be made into a nice model of the Huey.  Research, hard work, and some scratch building will take it to another level.  Until the "model" gods decide to give us a nice detailed accurate UH-1D or H we are stuck with the 50 year old Revell and "sorry" Panda kits in 1/32 or 1/35.   

I think you are talking about the old 1/48 Revell/Monogram UH-1C gunship.  If so, as Granddad says, be prepared to do some work if you want it accurate.  The kit is a combination UH-1B and C model and lots of fiction.  It has a B tail and C blades (or vise-versa).  It has many other inaccuracies as well. 

The weapons set-up is incorrect too.  B and C model gunships could not carry miniguns, rockets, and the 40mm grenade launcher.  All that armament and ammo was too heavy for it to get off the ground.  The normal set-up was either miniguns and rockets, or 40mm thumper and rockets. 

From what I've read I am assuming that this is the 1/48 scale kit.  My recommendation is that you outfit it with the resin correction kit offered by the Cobra Company.  This in turn will most likely motivate you to keep it as a Vietnam era gunship.  I recommend a III corp aircraft without the nose mounted 'chunker'. If you want to get really crazy you could upgrade it to a UH-1M with National Guard markings circa 1989. 

i forgot to add that just so everyone knows it is a 1/48 scale huey hog. sorry

John,

How could I forget the "F" and "P" versions.  Longer tailbooms, 48 ft. rotor system of the "D/H", and the different engine/exhaust set up. 

Interior is various shades of gray.  The floor and metal works are a medium grey.  The fabric sound proofing on the walls and ceiling are a slightly darker gray.  Seats are either red or were later OD Green.  Instrument panel is gray with black instruments and a flat black anti-glare panel on top of the instrument panel. 

Okay, I have a question...

 Say I want to make a 1/35th UH-1N from Desert Storm...The only option is the panda kit, right?  What AM should I get?  I am looking at a possible diorama...

Does anyone have any helpful hints, pictures, or details that would be willing to share?

TIA,

Austin

My email address is arkhunter2002@yahoo.com incase you would rather email me.

Yup, the Panda kit is the only one out there.  Cobra Company makes a couple modern (OIF) USMC UH-1N detail sets.  One is for the basic aircraft (inside and out), and one is a weapons set.  They are both great.  Check the below links for UH-1N pics.

http://s96920072.onlinehome.us/AWA1/101-200/walk137_UH-1N/walk137.htm

http://s96920072.onlinehome.us/AWA1/401-500/walk495_UH-1N_Lu/walk495.htm

Cobra Company also does a USAF 20th Spec Ops Squadron UH-1N "Green Hornets" conversion set.  The Green Hornets operated armed UH-1Ns in the later years of the Vietnam War, '71 - '72.

Haven't heard of any PE for the 1/35 Panda bird, and the only other aftermarket accessory I have heard of are window painting masks.

I'd highly recommend getting the Cobra Company sets for the UH-1N. The Panda kit really needs dressing up. The weapons set is great and will work for ODS armament as well as modern. For the general update set, there are a few sensors I can think of off the top of my head that need to be left off (AAR-47's for one), but the set would still be worth getting.

DANG ... I sure wish I would have found this before I purchased the Revell Huey Hog. I'm anal and I wanted a REAL accurate model for a diorama that I shaln't be doing now

My attempt

It seems no one has considered making the Revell Hog into a B-model.  This would not be that difficult if you just robbed the rotor (and shorten to 44 scale feet) from an Italeri (kit #849) or AMT 1/48 D model (kit#8867).  The rotors and rotor head looks better on the Italeri, in my opinion, but the trailing edges of the rotor blade are incorrect and will need to be sanded down.   You would also need to add the blade counterweights to the rotor haed, but that shouldn't be too difficult (You can also get these from a 1/48 Fujimi UH-1B, kit. #31015,  rotors are BAD on this kit though) .  Also, the Hog model has fuel filler points on BOTH sides.  You could just fill in the left filler point and leave the right one.  Oh, and you need to leave off the roof mounted pitot tube and scratch one for the nose (if you want a B model).  If you build a C model or late model  B you could remove the  FM antenae from the nose.  I don't think a ship would have both the FM antenae on the nose and the "towel bar" FM antennae as well (right, Gino)?  A late B model would also most likely sport the M-21 armamant system with miniguns which you could also get from the armed 1/48 AMT UH-1D  and XM-157 (already in the HOG kit) or M-158 7 shot rocket pods (the 158 pods with individual tubes replaced the older XM-157's).  Most important of all is to rememebr that this is an ARMY Huey not a MARINE Huey so you got to get new decals (Unless you have Revell kit. 04476, which also has Army decals).  Marines flew the UH-1E which had a distinct housing for the rescue hoist mounted on the roof and used the TK-2 mounting system with a different weapons arrangement.   There is a lot to consider if you want your bird to be  completely accurate.  Good luck!

    Ray
 

Welcome to the Forums Smartaft.

The old often issued and always seen on the shelves Huey Hog kit is an old, tired kit. What you see here is pretty typical of old kits that are being popped from worn out molds  Even when itwas new, it was not a great kit, and that was some thirty years ago.  

As far as locating pins go, I never use them and sand them right off when I cut the part off the sprue.

Nine times out of ten (*unless it is a Bandai kit) they are wrong anyway! If you need to, superglue some small plastic tabs inside the kit to help you line up your parts and keep them aligned while the glue dries.

Thanks for posting up the pics, thats quite a photo gallery you have on this one

David