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Styrofoam as a medium?

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  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Philadelphia PA
Styrofoam as a medium?
Posted by smeagol the vile on Saturday, September 6, 2008 12:59 AM
I have all the styrofoam I will ever need, large blocks of it (more like rectangles of it, large area, but semi thin, about an inch thick)  My question is how can I connect these so that when I cut whatever area out of them (like a canyon) in the center I wont see the seams between them?

 

  • Member since
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  • From: BC
Posted by Deputy_Brad on Saturday, September 6, 2008 3:12 AM
Well you should really just glue them with something like liquid nails. And if you dont wanna see the seam the normal thing is to usually just cover it up with plaster or celluclay anyways to hide it and also give better texture.
My real name is Cam. Interest: anything 1/72, right now mostly sci-fi and modern In progress: 1/72 Sci-fi diorama (link in my web) 1/72 Leopard 2A5 1/72 APC Conversion to a MEGA DESTROYER
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  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Saturday, September 6, 2008 4:00 AM
What Brad said... I used styrofoam to form the general terrain features of my railroad layouts by glueing blocks into place, then using a combination of sawblades, knives, and gouges to rough out the area and shape, then covered it in plaster-soaked cheesecloth or strips of old bedsheet, even newspaper to achieve the smooth transitions, then covered with my ground material...

  • Member since
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  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Saturday, September 6, 2008 9:45 AM
Here's an article I did showing how to to this.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

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  • From: Philadelphia PA
Posted by smeagol the vile on Saturday, September 6, 2008 10:13 AM
Thanks, my problem is the surface I need is a smooth one, like sheer cut stone, or a trench worn away by water erosion, not necesserially something that will have any kind of dirt or grass or non smooth(ish) surface on it.

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Saturday, September 6, 2008 12:55 PM
Same concept (See picture 5 in the article). With Celluclay, you can smooth the surface with a wet finger.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
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  • From: The Bluegrass State
Posted by EasyMike on Monday, September 8, 2008 2:10 PM

 smeagol the vile wrote:
...my problem is the surface I need is a smooth one, like sheer cut stone, or a trench worn away by water erosion...

 Carve the styrofoam to what you want, then seal it with homemade white glue/water sealer.  Depending on the foam, you might need two or three coats of sealer.

Paint after the sealer dries.

Smile [:)] 

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Philadelphia PA
Posted by smeagol the vile on Monday, September 8, 2008 7:00 PM
Thank you, if only all answers were so susinct.

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Monday, September 8, 2008 8:50 PM

Wasn't an answer, it was instruction... Next time you want instruction rather suggestion, input, tips, and ideas, ask for it outright...

Here's a succinct answer to your question, "Styrofoam as a medium?"

Yes...

  • Member since
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  • From: Philadelphia PA
Posted by smeagol the vile on Tuesday, September 9, 2008 6:54 AM

Whenever I ask questions like this, about new techniques or using new things I havent used before I am asking for instruction.  Thats how I learn.

 

And just because model maniac is on your nerves doesnt mean ya have to get snippy at me Whistling [:-^]

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Tuesday, September 9, 2008 7:05 AM
 smeagol the vile wrote:

Whenever I ask questions like this, about new techniques or using new things I havent used before I am asking for instruction.  Thats how I learn.

 

And just because model maniac is on your nerves doesnt mean ya have to get snippy at me Whistling [:-^]

Sorry, but what more do you need? We're happy to answer questions, but this one's really simple. Cut the styrofoam to shape. Glue thin sheets together with white glue if needed. Lay on a layer of sealant, celluclay, plaster or as another poster suggested (but I think would be very time consuming) household glue. Paint (or if you've used celluclay, you could have added acrylic paint to the mix not needed to paint.) Add grasses, shrubs, other plant material as desired. Rock shoul be inserted in the wet mixture nd the edges blended in.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
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  • From: Philadelphia PA
Posted by smeagol the vile on Tuesday, September 9, 2008 7:06 AM
I didnt say that you didnt answer the question, you all did, quite nicley.  Its on other topics that I mean that for.

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Tuesday, September 9, 2008 10:01 AM

 smeagol the vile wrote:
And just because model maniac is on your nerves doesnt mean ya have to get snippy at me Whistling [:-^]

Lol...  Kid, I'm a retired US Army senior NCO... "Snippy" is not a word one would ever use to describe me...  Besides, I have selective nerves...  They can engage multiple targets with varying degrees of force...

It's like I told my kids all their lives... I do NOT yell.  Sergeants do NOT yell, they communicate in an authoritative manner to preclude any misunderstandings, miscommunications, or mistakes...

Move out smartly, now...

 

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  • From: Dripping Springs, TX, USA
Posted by RBaer on Tuesday, September 9, 2008 11:40 AM
I tried that "not yelling part" wife my wife. No go. Too much "talking to people in loud environments" didn't fly either.

Apprentice rivet counter.

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  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Tuesday, September 9, 2008 1:15 PM
Ya,  my Household 6 doesn't buy it either...

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  • From: Philadelphia PA
Posted by smeagol the vile on Tuesday, September 9, 2008 1:42 PM

Hans, you remind me alot of my band director at the college I go to.  He is an ex-marine and seems to have that same attitude you have.

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Tuesday, September 9, 2008 1:55 PM

I don't have an attitude... I just expect my directives to carried out like they came from the Burning Bush...

 

Wink [;)]

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Philadelphia PA
Posted by smeagol the vile on Tuesday, September 9, 2008 5:36 PM
 Hans von Hammer wrote:

I don't have an attitude... I just expect my directives to carried out like they came from the Burning Bush...

 

Wink [;)]

 

Uh Hans... Im pretty sure they have ointment that will clear the burning right up.

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Tuesday, September 9, 2008 6:43 PM

Knock 'em out 'till I get tired...

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  • From: Philadelphia PA
Posted by smeagol the vile on Wednesday, September 10, 2008 7:48 AM
<does one then passes out>

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Pineapple Country, Queensland, Australia
Posted by Wirraway on Wednesday, September 10, 2008 7:50 PM
Hey Al/Hans.  I want to use thin sheets of styrofoam as ruined walls for an urban dio.  But I want to get rid of the pattern - which looks like the thousands of little balls (actually, they look like hectagons) that make up a sheet.  What could I brush on to give it a more textured surface, and would look like a plaster wall ?

"Growing old is inevitable; growing up is optional"

" A hobby should pass the time - not fill it"  -Norman Bates

 

GIF animations generator gifup.com

  • Member since
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  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Wednesday, September 10, 2008 9:52 PM

I use joint compound (NOT "spackle")... you might know it as "Sheetrock mud"... It won't attack the styrofoam, dries quick, can be spread on very thin, and is sandable and paintable after sealing... You can texture it to make it look like Stucco, Brick, Concrete, or smooth plaster... You can get it in quart-sized buckets for around 6 bucks at just about any hardware store...

The drawback to mudding styrofoam is it's flexability... If the sheet is too big and the mud too thin, it can crack and fall off... One way to help stop that cracking is use smaller sheets, no more than about 6x8 or so, and make sure you scribe the surface of the foam with a knife to give it something to stick to...

  • Member since
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  • From: Pineapple Country, Queensland, Australia
Posted by Wirraway on Friday, September 12, 2008 1:21 AM
Sounds good.  I'll give it a whirl.....

"Growing old is inevitable; growing up is optional"

" A hobby should pass the time - not fill it"  -Norman Bates

 

GIF animations generator gifup.com

  • Member since
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  • From: BC
Posted by Deputy_Brad on Friday, September 12, 2008 1:42 AM
I used light wieght spackling compound on my styrofoam sheet buildings and it worked fine. I found the dry wall mud I had wouldn't set properly and would always be flaky and chalky after it dried, maybe it was just a bad batch though. I also use plaster of paris on the walls sometimes, it dries really hard and the walls don't seem to flex much, then again everything I do is 1/72 scale and its all half the size of your guys' stuff.
My real name is Cam. Interest: anything 1/72, right now mostly sci-fi and modern In progress: 1/72 Sci-fi diorama (link in my web) 1/72 Leopard 2A5 1/72 APC Conversion to a MEGA DESTROYER
  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Friday, September 12, 2008 5:38 AM

I found the dry wall mud I had wouldn't set properly and would always be flaky and chalky after it dried...

Did you scribe the underlying material first? Need to do that to give it something to stick to. 

  • Member since
    May 2008
Posted by 05Sultan on Sunday, September 14, 2008 6:42 PM

    Another way to seal the foam after it's glued up and shaped is to paint it with leftover latex housepaint that's squirreled away in your garage. Indoor/outdoor no matter. Use a color other than a shade of foam color to ensure total coverage. When dry,use any media you like to work with to create your scene.

 Rick

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Portland, Oregon
Posted by fantacmet on Monday, September 15, 2008 7:04 PM
Acrylic paint can also be added to plaster.  For that though I recommend the craft paints, as it will take quite a bit to color it.

    

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