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Is there a good water how to outthere?

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  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Is there a good water how to outthere?
Posted by wing_nut on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 7:18 AM

I need help from the dio-dudes.  I have a built float plane, a piece of drift wood, a bottle of Realistic Water and an idea.  Sadly that's kind of where it all comes to a grinding halt.

Is there "how-to" out there in dio world that has a step by step? 

The bottle say to layer it 1/8" at a time.  Can that be done thicker to save time?  Does the "water" get tinted or is the color replicated by painting the base darker out from the shore for the idea f depth?  My big question is how do you get some texture on the surface so it does not look like a sheet of glass?

Marc  

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: clinton twp, michigan
Posted by camo junkie on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 7:52 AM
ive never done it other than small areas and then i used future. but i would also post this in the ship section...those guys know their stuff!!
"An idea is only as good as the person who thought of it...and only as brilliant as the person who makes it!!"
  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 10:05 AM
Good idea.  Didn't think of that... thanks

Marc  

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Florida
Posted by capnluki on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 10:13 AM
The instant water, I believe you are using, has a tendency to dry tacky.  Personally, I use plastic wrap.  If you build up a paint base bellow, you can glue the wrap on using Elmer's school glue.  Using the plastic wrap also lets you manipulate the surface detail quite easily.  But, it's up to you.

Leutenant Dan

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Joplin, Mo
Posted by figure freak on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 11:19 AM
Not trying to bring you down or anything but the problem with plastic wrap is well it looks like plastic wrap
  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: clinton twp, michigan
Posted by camo junkie on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 11:24 AM
shep paine used clear silicone caulk. other people use clear resin...just to name a few ideas.
"An idea is only as good as the person who thought of it...and only as brilliant as the person who makes it!!"
  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Florida
Posted by capnluki on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 1:32 PM
Not if it's done right

Leutenant Dan

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Joplin, Mo
Posted by figure freak on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 1:39 PM
true.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: 41 Degrees 52.4 minutes North; 72 Degrees 7.3 minutes West
Posted by bbrowniii on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 2:32 PM

Marc

My one experience with water was using a different product (Minwax's Polycrylyc), but I can say from that experience I would say to go with the thinner layers.  I did a couple deeper layers to start and had some real trouble with it drying.

Also, in my case, I did tint the water with paint (as well as painted the base a dark color to simulate depth).

HTH.

'All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing' - Edmund Burke (1770 ??)

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 3:03 PM
For water, I use clear resin. Left to itself, it's a nice calm surface. Ripples can be added with Woodland Scenics Water Effects. Add some cotton from a cotton ball to the Woodland Scenics Water Effects for splashes and fast moving water.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Charlottesville Va
Posted by Stern0 on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 3:54 PM
Sign - Ditto [#ditto]
Always Faithful U.S.M.C
  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Thursday, July 16, 2009 6:20 AM
Thnaks for all the advice guys.

Marc  

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 16, 2009 7:54 AM
Depending on the scale you are working with, and the effect you want, you don't really have to go with the "hot" acrylic mediums that are translucent...I've seen really nice water made from plaster, celleclay and even clay...many ship dios use celluclay for their water...it is much more forgiving and gives you time to add textures, waves, ripples into it rather easily...once dry, you can paint it to look like all kinds of water, even adding white-caps to the waves...then add a few coats of clear and you have deep water...
  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Thursday, July 16, 2009 12:29 PM

I use plaster and aluminum foil to get an "ocean" effect... I cover the plaster waves (after painting) with a product called "Mod-Podge" to add the glossy look...

Also, I've used textured plastic from shower doors and/or drop-ceiling light tiles with a "wave" texture molded into it... Gotta look around for it, but it's great in 1/48th scale...  Just cut holes for the floats and/or hulls and glue the model into them, then use silicone caulk or a mix of caulk and plastice wrap to tie it in...

 

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Thursday, July 16, 2009 5:35 PM

Thanks again for the ideas.  I realized I never gave any kind of description of what I was going for.  Picture a float plane toed off to a piece of driftwood on that beach. From pics I've seen that water can be from near cystal clear to slightly.. cloudy I guess you would say.

 

http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/00/1c/3f/7a/lagoon-area.jpg

Marc  

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Friday, July 17, 2009 2:24 PM
I'd go with a clear acrylic base in that case.. The ol' stand-by I use is a the plastic box photo frames..  Pouring that much resin or the like would be rather expensive (not to mention that it's tricky because of the heat generated by the resin as it cures), so I'd use the box, then do a resin pour on top of it for the wave/ripples, using aluminum foil... You could tint the resin that way, and keep the bottom visible...  Just make sure to pour in thin layers, no more than an 1/8-1/4 inch or so at a time..

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