SECURE MODELS TO DIORAMA BASE

Thanks guys for help I ended up glueing them down with Tite Bond just enough to hold them down so I can remove them later if I want to.                           Aceses5

Thanks guys I ended up glueing them down with Tite Bond and if I want I can still remove them. Aceses5

Gear Head 6

............Another suggestion is old fashioned Elmer's white glue. It's great for holding figures in place on the ground cover.  Also, if in a week, a year or a decade, you want to change a diorama around you can usually remove the vehicle or figures with out much trouble or damage if you're careful.

Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol, look for the stronger 70% mix) works great for softening white glue. 

If you decide to bolt the model to the base do so early in the build stage before paint and details. Lesson learned the hard way for me again... Here is a picture:

Lucky 1/2 the lower hull was missing as it had to be drilled through metal (Tamiya 1/48 scale) so I had something solid to grip but the locking pliers slipped and the lower run of track came off! Doh@#$%

............Another suggestion is old fashioned Elmer's white glue. It's great for holding figures in place on the ground cover.  Also, if in a week, a year or a decade, you want to change a diorama around you can usually remove the vehicle or figures with out much trouble or damage if you're careful.

Thanks guys for help like the screw method .              Aceses5

Another vote for thin brass rods. You can buy them at craft stores like Michael's or Hobby Lobby for cheap, they're east to cut and bend, and are generally useful for all aspects of modeling.

Hi,

I use all three methods gluing, bolting down and wire depending on the subject and thickness of the base it is on.

Cheers,

Richard

^^ Ditto^^ 

I use a black drywall screw though.  It is easier to install.  I simply drill a hole in the bottom of the hull and then a pilot hole in the base and screw it down tightly.  The black color makes it hard to see under the vehicle as well.

Shepard Paine describes using a bolt and nut drilled through the hull of a tank through the base.

I use that method as well.. It really helps with rough terrain and provides a "sprung" suspension look.. No "Floating" track or roadwheels with this method, ever...

For wheeled vehicles and aircraft,  I use brass rod.  I insert a piece of brass rod about an inch long into the tires, then drill corresponding holes into the base, then cement in place with a little Liquid Nails adhesive...

Shepard Paine describes using a bolt and nut drilled through the hull of a tank through the base. A bit over kill yet it will never fall off!

Realize models are light so which ever you choose it should suit the maximum abuse it may see. White wood glue is good as it has enough hold to keep it in place yet will break away from plastic if something drastic happens. It drys flat clear. CA glue sometimes is noticeable when dry, I hear 'Gorilla glue' is better as it drys without leaving the white tell mark. I have secured models with wet 'snow' mix by pressing them into the thick mix when wet.  For figures the best solution is to drill metal 'pins' into the leg (sewing needle ect) and a corresponding  hole into the base. This way they will always stay put when the diorama is moved around.

Good luck and check out some threads in `dioramas`for more ideas.

Jason

Ever see Toy Story?  I would'nt glue them down. 

Epoxy or hot glue thats what I use.