Terrain Building Materials: Sculptamold vs. Drywall Compound

I use Elmers' wood filler for things like that for me i use it to apply a thin coat and make my own zimmerit on Panzer.  But it can be smoothed fine prior to the cure and then sanded after also it can get wet without harming it I would not put it to the test of say a pond/w real water but a little wont cause it to dry out and flake so being around humid conditions are not bad (i live in SWFL).  the last is the cost it is cheaper getting 16 fl oz was about 10 bucks where that amount of drywall gunk is 20 at least the last time i got some from Ace Hardware.

Anyway just another suggestion. 

Sean

Rej

to show golfers how the project will make the course more interesting.

so... minefields and tanks?

I've used drywall cement over the base for several dioramas over the years and not had any major problems with splitting or peeling.

I have used extruded Styrofoam insulation as a base for several dioramas that I have built. It comes as a 2'X8'sheet in various thicknesses in  half inch increments. I usually use 1 1/2"thick stuff but the last on I built I used 1 inch and glued it up to 3"thick in places. Styrofoam is very stable and quite strong. I cut it with power saws and shape ot with sanders. I dont recomend using the expanded white beadboard type of foam. It does not preform well at all. Always wear a dust mask and it cleans up well with a shop vac.

Carl

Thanks again for the tips...you've given me a lot to consider! It's tempting to try out the grout as my final smoothing surface because it's non-shrink (well, it's advertised as such, anyway).

Rej

Glad you could combine two great activities!

Far as the fumes generated by the Styrofoam hot cutter I have not personally seen this done yet from pictures it can be assumed there is little toxic emissions. The temperature melts like a hot knife through butter, without burning or causing smoke. Sure there will be a smell but the black smoke from burning a hydrocarbon is not present.

Check out a model RR club in your area to see this in person. I do know great detail and a smooth surface can be achieved using just the hot cutter. Micro-mark a online hobby supplier sells these and if you check out their flyer or web site pictures can be seen of the tool in action.

It sounds like your plywood base is sturdy enough to move without flex thus avoiding cracks. I have not personally worked with Sculptamold so I cannot give a opinion of its performance characteristics. Although knowing drywall fillers properties it would be safe to bet  Sculptamold preforms better.

My personal favorite is tile grout for sculpting scenery. This needs to be on a tile bottom or on a granite piece. Obviously not practical for your project due to weigh.

Jason

SuppresionFire--

Thanks for the advice and encouragement. Yes, this is business related. I'll be modifying several holes on the course and want to use this as a marketing tool to show golfers how the project will make the course more interesting.

I have built a couple of large dioramas before (I always knew my occasional hobby would have real world applications some day ) and thus I have had to be conscious of weight. This model is not too big-- about 54" x 30", built on a 3/16" Luan plywood base over a 1x4 "box" frame. There is a 1x4 center support across the long access to provide more rigidity to the base. Anticipated strain is minimal, but from my limited experience, it doesn't take much movement at all to develop cracks where plaster is involved (even shrinkage seems to cause problems at times). Do you thnk cracks are less likely with Sculptamold than drywall compound?

I've seen what styrofoam hot cutters can do and I love the idea of using just styroafoam to form the terrain, but I'm not sure I have enough skill. On a project like this, accuracy is key. What if I cut away too much foam? I guess I'm just more comfortable building a styrofoam substrate to the approximate elevation, then doing the detail work with the sculptamold/plaster medium which I can shape-- adding and removing material as needed, then sanding. I definitely see the benefits regarding smoothness and cracking offered by cutting foam, though. Also, the area I'm working in is not well ventilated. Do I have to worry about fumes with a hot foam cutter? I'm using extruded polystyrene, if that matters.

Thanks again!

Any movement will crack the drywall compound. You may want to mount the foam board on a piece of 3/8" plywood.

Model Rail Road displays are built up similar to yours to be moved and setup in sections. They are designed to be light thus a 'skeleton' of wire and paper mache or cut from Styrofoam for the landscapes. This is over a rigid plywood frame.

You may want to look into a Styrofoam 'hot knife' cutter and smooth out the turf with the simulated grass you intend on using. This way you can eliminate the cracking issue and keep the display light for transportation.

I take this is for a corporate setting in final design approval? Good to see someone is modeling as a job.