stikpusher

Here is a good idea of figure comparisons- all "1/35". From left to right, Tamiya, Miniart, Verlinden

and here are the Tamiya and Verlinden next to a 1/35 ruler. As you can see, in scale the Verlinden guy is nearly 2 meters tall... way over average for a Japanese male (or female)

 

 

 

Well I think Ill have the M48a5 beign crewed by the Verlinden figures and have the Verlinden humvee crew as tank riders. Ill Probably add one track commander figure to the APC, or get Dragons tank crew to crew the APC.

Here is a good idea of figure comparisons- all "1/35". From left to right, Tamiya, Miniart, Verlinden

and here are the Tamiya and Verlinden next to a 1/35 ruler. As you can see, in scale the Verlinden guy is nearly 2 meters tall... way over average for a Japanese male (or female)

Tankluver

 

 

stikpusher

Verlinde'n's earliest stuff was based off of 1/32 Airfix multipose stuff. I think that they have continued down that route. Tamiya's stuff today is far more petite than many of their older figures. Dragon started out on the large side of 1/35 but has scaled them back a bit. Zvezda's figures tend to be larger, like old Dragon stuff. ICM started out smaller, but now their figures are larger like Dragon's old stuff and Zvezda.

 

 

 

 

So would verlinden be a bad choice to go with, or should I jus tnot base most of my kits off of them?

 

They will be ok for crew figures. Just keep the figures of differing sizes seperate and try to keep same sized items consistent. Especially in close proximity figures. Items like weapons and canteens are uniform, period. While Kpots, vests, etc come in sizes, offering you some wiggle room.

Gamera

Yeah, I complained about this a few weeks ago, the two figures on the left are Verlinden resin and the two on the right are Finemolds plastic ones. Yeap, thanks Verlinden for a couple of six foot four/two metre tall Second World War Japanese... 

The Verlinden figures are really nicely detailed though and one of the cheaper resin brands out there. You can use them in a regular dio setting just don't put them close to 1/35th figures. Having one standing by himself or using them together most people won't notice the difference. 

 

I agree. I think Verlinden's quality and subject matter is great but their 1/35 figures should be used with Verlinden stuff only perhaps.

Yeah, I complained about this a few weeks ago, the two figures on the left are Verlinden resin and the two on the right are Finemolds plastic ones. Yeap, thanks Verlinden for a couple of six foot four/two metre tall Second World War Japanese... 

The Verlinden figures are really nicely detailed though and one of the cheaper resin brands out there. You can use them in a regular dio setting just don't put them close to 1/35th figures. Having one standing by himself or using them together most people won't notice the difference. 

stikpusher

Verlinde'n's earliest stuff was based off of 1/32 Airfix multipose stuff. I think that they have continued down that route. Tamiya's stuff today is far more petite than many of their older figures. Dragon started out on the large side of 1/35 but has scaled them back a bit. Zvezda's figures tend to be larger, like old Dragon stuff. ICM started out smaller, but now their figures are larger like Dragon's old stuff and Zvezda.

 

So would verlinden be a bad choice to go with, or should I jus tnot base most of my kits off of them?

Verlinde'n's earliest stuff was based off of 1/32 Airfix multipose stuff. I think that they have continued down that route. Tamiya's stuff today is far more petite than many of their older figures. Dragon started out on the large side of 1/35 but has scaled them back a bit. Zvezda's figures tend to be larger, like old Dragon stuff. ICM started out smaller, but now their figures are larger like Dragon's old stuff and Zvezda.

Here is an example. The yellow figure parts are Verlinden 1/35 Vietnam U.S. parts. The grey are AFV Club Vietnam U.S. parts. The rifles are WW1 German GEW 98's, yellow Verlinden and brown ICM. I'm just saying it's quite a difference. Tamiya, Dragon, Italeri 1/35 scale are similar to the AFV and ICM scale as well.

Griffin25

 

Tankluver

Was looking for an upgrade on the crews for the M113 and the M48a5 

how about these guys for starters, I'm thinking the vietnam crew could be on the M113 and the desert sotrm figures can be on the M48a5, or possibly mix it up, I want to have the modern looking desert storm figures hitching a ride on the M48a5 or standing on it as if its going slow enugh and steady enough to do that.

http://www.hobbylinc.com/verlinden-us-afv-crew-vietnam-set-1-resin-model-military-figure-kit-1:35-scale-2554

http://www.hobbylinc.com/verlinden-desert-shield-tankers-resin-model-military-figure-kit-1:35-scale-0539

http://www.hobbylinc.com/verlinden-desert-storm-tank-crew-resin-model-military-figure-kit-1:35-scale-0596

 

 

 

 

 

Beware of the Verlinden Figures. Don't get me wrong I like their quality and subject matter but in my experience the 1/35 figures are quite a bit bigger than other companies figures. They don't look right with other companies armor kits and the body parts cannot be swapped out with other manufacturers figure kits. A guy will have a giant head or one puny arm and one hulk arm!

 

I've never seen this with Verlinden, but I havent picked up any of their 1/35 stuff. Their 120mm scale (1/16) are rather nice.

People vary in size, so having everything exactly the same height is not very realistic, a little variation is actually a plus, but if arm sizes and head sizes are not proportinal to the figure, then thats another story. If I came across this, I would contact Verlinden and ask for replacement parts or a new kit. I'm sure they would do their best to help a customer out.

https://www.verlindenonline.com/verlinden-publications.html

Tankluver

Was looking for an upgrade on the crews for the M113 and the M48a5 

how about these guys for starters, I'm thinking the vietnam crew could be on the M113 and the desert sotrm figures can be on the M48a5, or possibly mix it up, I want to have the modern looking desert storm figures hitching a ride on the M48a5 or standing on it as if its going slow enugh and steady enough to do that.

http://www.hobbylinc.com/verlinden-us-afv-crew-vietnam-set-1-resin-model-military-figure-kit-1:35-scale-2554

http://www.hobbylinc.com/verlinden-desert-shield-tankers-resin-model-military-figure-kit-1:35-scale-0539

http://www.hobbylinc.com/verlinden-desert-storm-tank-crew-resin-model-military-figure-kit-1:35-scale-0596

 

 

Beware of the Verlinden Figures. Don't get me wrong I like their quality and subject matter but in my experience the 1/35 figures are quite a bit bigger than other companies figures. They don't look right with other companies armor kits and the body parts cannot be swapped out with other manufacturers figure kits. A guy will have a giant head or one puny arm and one hulk arm!

I am a bit hazy on memory, but vaguely recall Infantry unit SOPs having the MOPP suit in the radio pouch of the rucksack, and the boots in one of the side outer pouches. I do not remember where the gloves were carried. The mask was always in its carrier attached to LBE or worn on the hip in the field.

Those figures would work just fine. They are molded in BDUs and not ACUs as painted there. Plus it will give you good stowage for the vehicles. It is common in mech units to use the wooden ammo crates on APC floorboards to hold stuff.  

http://www.squadron.com/1-35-Tamiya-US-Modern-Infantry-Accessory-Set-p/tm89772.htm

just read this description would these work as well

.

Was looking for an upgrade on the crews for the M113 and the M48a5 

how about these guys for starters, I'm thinking the vietnam crew could be on the M113 and the desert sotrm figures can be on the M48a5, or possibly mix it up, I want to have the modern looking desert storm figures hitching a ride on the M48a5 or standing on it as if its going slow enugh and steady enough to do that.

http://www.hobbylinc.com/verlinden-us-afv-crew-vietnam-set-1-resin-model-military-figure-kit-1:35-scale-2554

http://www.hobbylinc.com/verlinden-desert-shield-tankers-resin-model-military-figure-kit-1:35-scale-0539

http://www.hobbylinc.com/verlinden-desert-storm-tank-crew-resin-model-military-figure-kit-1:35-scale-0596

CapnMac82

 

GMorrison

selective compression about 1 meter or more.

 

 

That's why I suggested an overpass, way back on Page One.  Give a good reason, visually, as well as tactically, to bunch up for the dio.

In looking over the figures, a thought popped into my head.  The Tamiya "Modern US Troops" are all equiped  with Mk 17 gask mas carriers (the Mk 17A1 will be identical at 1/35).  But, I don't believe I've seen any of the Mk 20 (?) CVC mask carriers.

But, that's not the question--the question is whether  NG troops would continue to carry the mask carriers (a pain in the thigh) or ditch them for the NBC "stuff" sacks introduced about that time?

 

Dragon's Modern US tank crew has the M20 mask carrier on one figure i the set. As well as them being with BDUs, the 80s style CVC helmet and one figure even having the CVC body armor vest.

I served in the Guard from 88 to 07. We did not see NBC stuff sacks until we were mobilized and deployed in 04. When I forst joined the Guard, most of our gear was pretty old- steel pots, M69 flak vests, M-16A1 rifles etc. New equipment came in slowly. Fist off K-pots. The PASGT vests did not show up until well after the 92 LA riots. M-16A2s around 2000 or so.

GMorrison

selective compression about 1 meter or more.

That's why I suggested an overpass, way back on Page One.  Give a good reason, visually, as well as tactically, to bunch up for the dio.

In looking over the figures, a thought popped into my head.  The Tamiya "Modern US Troops" are all equiped  with Mk 17 gask mas carriers (the Mk 17A1 will be identical at 1/35).  But, I don't believe I've seen any of the Mk 20 (?) CVC mask carriers.

But, that's not the question--the question is whether  NG troops would continue to carry the mask carriers (a pain in the thigh) or ditch them for the NBC "stuff" sacks introduced about that time?

GMorrison

Hmm because this is always a challenge in dioramas. That'd be 1.5 meters at scale, or with selective compression about 1 meter or more.

 

Well its the ideal postioning of vehicles, but thats also U.S. army doctrine, i'm not positivie what ther cuntries doctrine would be depending on the situation, but the footage from checnya or of the Germans riding through Russia on the streets sometimes show vehicles close to each other. Other videos show the 50 or so meters, just all depends on the situation I guess. 

Hmm because this is always a challenge in dioramas. That'd be 1.5 meters at scale, or with selective compression about 1 meter or more.

GMorrison

So I have a dumb question.

 

About how far apart would the tank and the APC be assuming they are driving along a road?

 

Ideally at least 50 meters seperation between vehicles. Too close together and you run the risk of damage or loss in case of a catastrophic kill, and too far apart and the elements may not be able to operate effectively together depending upon terrain, vegetation, etc.

So I have a dumb question.

About how far apart would the tank and the APC be assuming they are driving along a road?

Tankluver

Is there an AM kit to fix the grill doors? 

None that I know of.  They are easy to replicate with a couple strips of 0.040 strene though.

.

HeavyArty

OK, I would think if they had M48A5s though, they would have also had M113A2s since they were contemporary vehicles...but that is just me. 

Here are a few corrections you can do to the Tamiya M48A3 to improve it.

First are the open motorization holes in the hull.  I fill them by taping them off from the outside and filling the inside with a thin layer of casting resin.  Once cured, remove the tape and sand smooth.  It is a quick and easy way to deal with motorization holes.

The Tamiya M48A3 sits too tall around the tracks and road wheels.  Tamiya's kit was based on a vehicle without an engine and it sits too high due to this.  To fix it, cut the tabs off the road wheel arms and lower all the arms by 3mm. Each suspension arm damper should also have about 2.5mm removed, they are too long and also make the model sit a little too high. You may also have to remove a couple track blocks on each side to take the slack out of the track.

You may also want to add a piece of 0.040 styrene between the turret haves to raise the turret up about 1mm since it is a bit squashed in the kit. Also, the turret and hull are too smooth.  I give them both a bit of cast texture. To do this, I wet sections of the plastic with liquid glue, then stippled the surface with an old paint brush(or my finger).  Another pass of the liquid glue tones it down and blends the texture to look like cast steel as opposed to smooth plastic.

You can also add the mud release holes on the sprockets.  See below, for Dragon's sprockets, but the technique is the same for Tamiya's.

Lastly, I would get rid of the aweful kit tracks.  The kit tracks have incorrectly placed guide teeth (in the middle of the track block as opposed to between them). I suggest you put a set of AFV Club's indi-link track on it.  They make it look 100% better.

If you want to do more to it, here is a really great correction article:  http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/M48/m48-construction.html

And a full list of corrections that can be done to make it look better:  http://www.network54.com/Forum/47209/message/1302103308/M48+tweaks-corrections

That should get you started.

 

 

 

Is there an AM kit to fix the grill doors? Some of these correction I can make, but I still need to get putty to fill the holes, thanks for all this inofrmation HeavyArty. As of right now I'm waiting on my barrel to come in so I can finish the main gun portion of the kit. 

OK, I would think if they had M48A5s though, they would have also had M113A2s since they were contemporary vehicles...but that is just me. 

Here are a few corrections you can do to the Tamiya M48A3 to improve it.

First are the open motorization holes in the hull.  I fill them by taping them off from the outside and filling the inside with a thin layer of casting resin.  Once cured, remove the tape and sand smooth.  It is a quick and easy way to deal with motorization holes.

The Tamiya M48A3 sits too tall around the tracks and road wheels.  Tamiya's kit was based on a vehicle without an engine and it sits too high due to this.  To fix it, cut the tabs off the road wheel arms and lower all the arms by 3mm. Each suspension arm damper should also have about 2.5mm removed, they are too long and also make the model sit a little too high. You may also have to remove a couple track blocks on each side to take the slack out of the track.

You may also want to add a piece of 0.040 styrene between the turret haves to raise the turret up about 1mm since it is a bit squashed in the kit. Also, the turret and hull are too smooth.  I give them both a bit of cast texture. To do this, I wet sections of the plastic with liquid glue, then stippled the surface with an old paint brush(or my finger).  Another pass of the liquid glue tones it down and blends the texture to look like cast steel as opposed to smooth plastic.

You can also add the mud release holes on the sprockets.  See below, for Dragon's sprockets, but the technique is the same for Tamiya's.

Lastly, I would get rid of the aweful kit tracks.  The kit tracks have incorrectly placed guide teeth (in the middle of the track block as opposed to between them). I suggest you put a set of AFV Club's indi-link track on it.  They make it look 100% better.

If you want to do more to it, here is a really great correction article:  http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/M48/m48-construction.html

And a full list of corrections that can be done to make it look better:  http://www.network54.com/Forum/47209/message/1302103308/M48+tweaks-corrections

That should get you started.

HeavyArty

 

 

Tankluver

P.S. thinking of picking up Mengs BMD-1, but i also have a BMD-1 im watching on ebay from the manufacture Alanger, is this kit any good?

 

 

Alanger kits are pretty rough.  They are from Eastern Europe and usually have thick plastic and not well defined details.  For a burned out vehicle, it should do fine though.

 
If you are really concerned about historical accuracy, your vehicles are still not really correct for the time period.

For the M113, are you talking about the Tamiya straight M113?  If so, it is a Vietnam-era M113 and not really right for an early '80s M113A2.  I would really get one of the Academy M113A2 or A3 kits and save the Tamiya one for a later build.

A little more info on the M48A5 as well.  These tanks were upgraded from M48A3 Mod B tanks (later versions, post 1968).  The Tamiya kit represents an early M48A3 (before the Mod B upgrades).  It will take quite a bit of work to convert it into an M48A5. 

Here are some things that will need to be updated/changed:

- Armored, top-loading air cleaners

- Armored tail lights and added armor bars on rear exhaust grills

- Front light clusters with removable two-lens headlights and new light guards (as opposed to round gaurd w/individual lights)

- Urdan coupola replaces M1 cupola

- M68 105mm barrel

- Add reinforcing "X" ribs to the fenders at the front and rear, and a couple places along them

- Later versions had different tracks,  T142 (octagonal pads) vs T97E2 (chevron pads)

Here is a pic of one to see some of the changes.

The below pic shows the rear armored lights and armored bars on the exhaust grills.  This one also has early, unarmored, top-loading air cleaners

Here is a great walk-around of one at Ft Drum to see more of the changes.  http://www.network54.com/Forum/47209/thread/1240915606/M48A5+Photos+Ft+Drum+NY....

Here is a good thread on building an M48A5 too:  http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=230936&page=1

A better starting point is Dragon's M48A3 Mod B kit.  It has the headlights and tail lights already, along with the armored exhaust doors.

Another option is to get Academy's M48A5K ROK kit.  It can be built into a US M48A5 by leaving some of the South Korean (ROK) features (side skirts, smoke launchers and smoke grenade storage boxes, cross-wind sensor, right side M60MG, swap out TCs M60 for an M2 .50 cal, M60-style spot light, etc.).  It is off in the fender and track area though since Academy narrowed the tracks and sprockets by the width of one end connector to get the side skirts to fit.  It has the rest of the US M48A5 features in the kit already.

Here is a good build using the Academy kit for some inspiration.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/110741/thread/1123801898/going+back+to+the+old+school...

Hope that helps.

 

Edit:  I guess some very early ones maintained the M1 cupola as well, so that may not have to be changed.  I doubt the M1 cupola would have still been seen by the early '80s though.  This one also has the early, unarmored, top-loading air cleaners.

 

 

 

 

I saw the M48a5 with the cupola, so I'm keeping that, I'll try and upgrade the M48 as best as I can. 

For the M113 it is the vietnam version, but what I'm doing is making this a guard unit so the assumption i'm having is that this would be kind of like hand me downs for the active duty units. 

Thank you for all the information, it is alot of help. I'm considering the alanger kit, just worried itll be too rough, but then again don't want to get the meng kit and pay good money for something thatll be destoryed!

Tankluver

P.S. thinking of picking up Mengs BMD-1, but i also have a BMD-1 im watching on ebay from the manufacture Alanger, is this kit any good?

Alanger kits are pretty rough.  They are from Eastern Europe and usually have thick plastic and not well defined details.  For a burned out vehicle, it should do fine though.

 
If you are really concerned about historical accuracy, your vehicles are still not really correct for the time period.

For the M113, are you talking about the Tamiya straight M113?  If so, it is a Vietnam-era M113 and not really right for an early '80s M113A2.  I would really get one of the Academy M113A2 or A3 kits and save the Tamiya one for a later build.

A little more info on the M48A5 as well.  These tanks were upgraded from M48A3 Mod B tanks (later versions, post 1968).  The Tamiya kit represents an early M48A3 (before the Mod B upgrades).  It will take quite a bit of work to convert it into an M48A5. 

Here are some things that will need to be updated/changed:

- Armored, top-loading air cleaners

- Armored tail lights and added armor bars on rear exhaust grills

- Front light clusters with removable two-lens headlights and new light guards (as opposed to round gaurd w/individual lights)

- Urdan coupola replaces M1 cupola

- M68 105mm barrel

- Add reinforcing "X" ribs to the fenders at the front and rear, and a couple places along them

- Later versions had different tracks,  T142 (octagonal pads) vs T97E2 (chevron pads)

Here is a pic of one to see some of the changes.

The below pic shows the rear armored lights and armored bars on the exhaust grills.  This one also has early, unarmored, top-loading air cleaners

Here is a great walk-around of one at Ft Drum to see more of the changes.  http://www.network54.com/Forum/47209/thread/1240915606/M48A5+Photos+Ft+Drum+NY....

Here is a good thread on building an M48A5 too:  http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=230936&page=1

A better starting point is Dragon's M48A3 Mod B kit.  It has the headlights and tail lights already, along with the armored exhaust doors.

Another option is to get Academy's M48A5K ROK kit.  It can be built into a US M48A5 by leaving some of the South Korean (ROK) features (side skirts, smoke launchers and smoke grenade storage boxes, cross-wind sensor, right side M60MG, swap out TCs M60 for an M2 .50 cal, M60-style spot light, etc.).  It is off in the fender and track area though since Academy narrowed the tracks and sprockets by the width of one end connector to get the side skirts to fit.  It has the rest of the US M48A5 features in the kit already.

Here is a good build using the Academy kit for some inspiration.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/110741/thread/1123801898/going+back+to+the+old+school...

Hope that helps.

Edit:  I guess some very early ones maintained the M1 cupola as well, so that may not have to be changed.  I doubt the M1 cupola would have still been seen by the early '80s though.  This one also has the early, unarmored, top-loading air cleaners.