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Tinting water.

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  • Member since
    June 2015
Tinting water.
Posted by Valdez on Friday, November 8, 2019 11:00 PM

Hi.   I want to mix some woodlands scenics realistis water with a tint to achieve a non transparent effect.    id like to know to what percentage of tint is advised without ruining the water.  I want to put a ship on the water but don't want to see any sub surface hull.  Cheers

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Saturday, November 9, 2019 12:34 AM

If you are doing an underway ship, you can"sink" it in a foam base and use acrylic gel to create waves and wake.  Paint or tint to the color you need.  You can add to the white water/wake with poly fiber close to the hull to close the final gaps.

Modelcrazy is a top hand with this and hopefully will chime in with his advice and knowledge.

  • Member since
    June 2015
Posted by Valdez on Saturday, November 9, 2019 1:03 AM

The ship is going to be the 1/350th uss Missouri and it will be moored in rippled water.    Intend to cut the hull to a waterline configuration.   Would shy it on top of the water but not sure what adhesive I'd use.

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Saturday, November 9, 2019 6:54 AM

Youtuber Luke Towan's Boulder Creek Railroad site:

https://www.bouldercreekrailroad.com

uses a lot of Woodland Scenic material, including water, in his dioramas.   Check him out   

 

  • Member since
    June 2015
Posted by Valdez on Saturday, November 9, 2019 4:34 PM

I'm looking more for a fellow modeler that has done this to share his knowkedge/hints.   Plenty of video out their but it's very uniform and lacking application discretions. Like mixing ratios etc

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, November 9, 2019 5:02 PM

I don't like that product. It's expensive and shrinks when it cures. Or climbs the sides.If you use it, use a very thin layer say 1/16". That way you can paint the under base the right color and leave the "water" clear.

I much prefer to use Acrylic Gel Medium. It comes in various viscosities. Use the white stuff for waves and wakes.

Modeling is an excuse to buy books

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Formerly Bryan, now Arlington, Texas
Posted by CapnMac82 on Saturday, November 9, 2019 5:47 PM

Valdez
. Like mixing ratios etc

Well, each product is different.

Both Luke Towen and Kathy Millet just use a couple drops of acrylic paint.

Now, the exact point of the WS water is to be transparent, to be able to be seen through, to some extent.

For a ship as large as Missouri, you are looking at rather a huge qualtity of very expensive transparent resin you'd rather not be transparent.

Now, this is your model, not mine, but, I might have some useful advice to offer, what with having done an 1/400(?) IJN Kongo in a moored setting, and had to figure out the "how" to do so.  And, this was back circa 1980, a pint of cyrstal clear acrylic resin was about $60-70 (well over $150 in 2019 dollars).

What I did, then, was bum some plexiglass sheet off a sign company I was close to.  Traced the hull contour at the waterline (a bulged hueel, too, to keep it complicated) onto cardboard.  Which took several tries to get to "good enough."  That hole was transfered to the plex.  The plex was cut off enough to make a deep enough "box" to hide the hull.  The hull was then set in to the plex with clear silicone sealant.  But, only after the box was painted a suitable anchorage sort of color.  The ripples wer added by using a painting item, Clear Gloss Gel.  Effect was ok.  Sadly, all the photos were on a Kodak 110 camera next-day process, and are now long gone.

What I would do, today, would be different.  I'd use grigid styrene foam to block the base up, leaving a ship-size void., pretty much cut to nearly an exact fit.  Washers would go under the hull to get the correct attitude and waterline.  For the water surface, I'd propbaly use pre-mixed drywall compound, as it dries smooth as plaster without bein g as big a hassle as plaster of paris can be. 

That would be overlaid with Gel Medium after being painted "anchorage" color.  Now, I can get Gel Medium reasonably sheap; but the WS "Water Effects" would not be horrible to use.  The Gel medium, for my 2¢, would be easier to set boats and a Mooring Buoy into.  The Gel Medium will fill in any gaps between surface effect the ship, too.

But, that's my 2¢, I'm just an old geezer o nthe intertuubs

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Hatboro, PA
Posted by Justinryan215 on Saturday, December 21, 2019 9:00 AM

I will share some pics later (on a different device) But I have done a 1/1200 Yamato underway using vallejo still water, tinted mod podge, and tissue paper brushed with plain mod podge.  Pretty convincing.....

I actually made the waterm base layered to give it depth, using paint, tinted vallejo water, more paint, tinted mod podge, and a final brushing of untinted woodland scenics still water.  I have tinted the water and the mod podge using inks from the art supply store to keep it transparent.

 

You are looking for no transparency, but depth, I recommend painting the base your desired color and using untinted water effects to create the depth.

"...failure to do anything because someone else can do better makes us rather dull and lazy..."

Mortal as I am,I know that I am born for a day.  But when I follow at my pleasure the serried multitude of the stars in their circular course, my feet no longer touch the Earth...

 

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Hatboro, PA
Posted by Justinryan215 on Saturday, December 21, 2019 10:08 AM

  Sinking of a Japanese Dreadnaught https://imgur.com/gallery/4ttbMlP

 

 

"...failure to do anything because someone else can do better makes us rather dull and lazy..."

Mortal as I am,I know that I am born for a day.  But when I follow at my pleasure the serried multitude of the stars in their circular course, my feet no longer touch the Earth...

 

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