Mounting 1/48 Sturmovik on acrylic rod

If the fuselage is already assembled, it is hard.  If I know I intend to build it in flight, I clamp the fuselage together and drill a hole (normally quarter inch).  I do that by drilling sixteenth hole first, then Sucessive holes until my reamer tip can fit in.  I then carve a block of wood to match approximately the curve of the fuselage.  I then drill a quarter inch hole in the block.  I glue the block to the fuselage side with a piece of quarter inch dowel in the block to register the block. I immediately remove the dowel.

If the fuselage is complete, the only suggestion I have is to wax end of a piece of dowel, fill the hole with a big gob of two part putty like bondo and insert the dowel. Then remove the dowel whe the putty is hard.  You may have to clean up the hole a bit with a quarter inch drill turned by hand for inserting the plastic rod.

I bought a packet of quarter inch clear rods from hobby shop.  Not that expensive.

Thank you for the reply! The model is already complete, so I would have to go the Bondo route. is the reason to wax the acrylic rod so that I'm able to remove it again? Just curious, because my thought was to mount it permanently to a base so I'm not too concerned w removing it. Though I suppose if the Bondo didn't work, I wouldn't want the rod stuck in there.

You run a serious risk of splitting open the seam on the bottom, unless the kit has a solid lower wing part. I really suggest that NO power tools be involved- do the "hole" thing with hand tools.

Bill

thanks for the heads up. It does have a solid bottom wing, now I know where to drill the hole!

Second the the use of hand tools and progressive bits, it's easy to split the seam. 

You can also find a plastic or metal tube that the acrylic rod fits into, think of a sleeve. Drill the hole in the fuselage big enough to insert the sleeve. Drip some epoxy into the  sleeve. Roughen or cut a few grooves into the acrylic to form a mechanical lock. Insert the acrylic rod. Mount that Sturmovik lollipop onto a base!

I use my Dremel Stylus to enlarge the hole.  It is a low speed low power (and small and light hnd grinder).  It is now my go-to Dremel.  I use a cone bit- careful fitting is needed as I reach diameter of rod.  The tubing sleeve sounds like a fantastic idea- I will now use that even if I start before sides are glued together.  Will reduce the volume of carrying space when I travel to shows.

Hi!

      Using a rechargeable Moto-Tool you Can drill slower. I always put a tube in with a plug of epoxy in the top end of the tube, the tube would just barely stick out of the fuselage and the plug allowed it to be fastened inside at the top and again around the hole in a manner that the epoxy was worked to a forty five degree angle from the Fuselage to the edges of the tube. Good and solid that way.

   Then get another rod of acrylic that fits into the tube with no slop. Drill hole in the base the size you need and there you, are a flying Sturmovik! Don't forget prop Discs!

Tanker-Builder

Hi!

      Using a rechargeable Moto-Tool you Can drill slower. I always put a tube in with a plug of epoxy in the top end of the tube, the tube would just barely stick out of the fuselage and the plug allowed it to be fastened inside at the top and again around the hole in a manner that the epoxy was worked to a forty five degree angle from the Fuselage to the edges of the tube. Good and solid that way.

   Then get another rod of acrylic that fits into the tube with no slop. Drill hole in the base the size you need and there you, are a flying Sturmovik! Don't forget prop Discs!

 

Disagree.  The Stylus goes far slower than my battery Dremel.  The speed control is a simple one, not a feedback one, so increasing pressure slows speed.  If it stops you just reduce pressure.  I even use it for removing nubs on PE.

Missileman2000:

     Hi, Guy! Listen, I only mentioned the Moto-Tool because that is what I have. The other one I have is a No Name type and It works alright, but sometimes it surges, so  don't use it for delicate or Accurate work!