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  • Member since
    June 2005
  • From: I'm here physically, but not mentally.....
Posted by MontanaCowboy on Monday, July 25, 2005 1:39 PM
This might help a little, maybe not. Shoot a real piece of thin metal with a rifle and replace the part where you want the impact with the piece of thin metal. Confused [%-)]
"You know, Life is like a Rollercoaster. Sometimes you just die unexpectedly." No wait, that's not it.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Saturday, July 23, 2005 10:27 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by gringe88
secondly, because steel in most knocked out vehicles doesnt melt, its just blown apart into pieces. only with weapons like a bazooka hit does the steel melt, and then only immediately around the impact site


Not really the case. Most modern armor, especially APCs and the like arre made out of aluminum alloys and when hit, melt quite well. Here is an example of a T-55:


How about a Bradley:


Abrams:



Also, most hits cause a secondary explosion of the onboard ammo and fuel, which causes the vehicle to burn and melt down.

Older vehicles had more steel in them and melted less, but still did melt. If any metal gets hot enough, it will melt down. The Sherman was known as the Ronson Lighter because it lit up so easily.

M4 Sherman:


I do agree though. Like I said, depends on how accurate the kit is and how much work you want to put into making it look properly destroyed, not just a pool of melted plastic.

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  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: ...Ask the other guy, he's got me zeroed-in...
Posted by gringe88 on Saturday, July 23, 2005 9:35 PM
id go with either. it would depend on how much id want to scratch build. im an accuracy lover, so...anyways, i dont tend to melt stuff, firstly because im so clumsy using heat and candles to work plastic, id probably destroy the kit, and secondly, because steel in most knocked out vehicles doesnt melt, its just blown apart into pieces. only with weapons like a bazooka hit does the steel melt, and then only immediately around the impact site

sorry. direct answer- depends on what im gonna show in the vehicle.
====================================== -Matt
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Saturday, July 23, 2005 1:47 PM
I agree with you there. If you are going to build it as a destroyed vehicle, go with the cheaper one. One caviat though, make sure the cheaper one has all the parts you want to show in the destroyed vehicle, i.e. interior, engine, etc. That is the key that many people miss when showing a destroyed vehicle. Usually, interior and/or engine compartments are blown open and exposed, but some people leave out the details of those areas. A destroyed vehicle can be (and usually is) harder to make look accurate, than a fully mission capable vehicle in good condition.

Gino P. Quintiliani - Field Artillery - The KING of BATTLE!!!

Check out my Gallery: https://app.photobucket.com/u/HeavyArty

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell

  • Member since
    July 2013
bombed out
Posted by DURR on Saturday, July 23, 2005 12:21 PM
Question [?] when building an armor dio and 1 pc is bombed out

how many of you would buy a good brand ie tamiya afv club etc for the wreck

and
how many of you would buy a much cheaper brand figuring you going to melt parts cut parts etc


i personally choose the latter
the money i save on the bombed out model i can spend on extras in the dioMy 2 cents [2c]
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