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base of my dio

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  • Member since
    November 2005
base of my dio
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, July 2, 2003 10:17 PM
what should i use fot the base of my diorama? i have a piece o wood but will it warp when i put celluclay on it? thanks
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Sunny Florida
Posted by renarts on Wednesday, July 2, 2003 11:30 PM
Yes, if you don't seal it.

Wood is an animate thing, some species like oak or pine can move as much as 1/4 of an inch. What this does is cause severe warping, checking or splitting, the result of one side drying faster than the other and the resultant stresses introduced along wood grain. Throughout its use, wood will always move. Either alot or a little, it depends on if it was kiln dried or not, how humid or dry an area live in, temperature fluctuations etc. Warping is minimized by sealing the wood thoroughly, essentially cutting off its ability to breath and have variations of moisture content. Most plaques like many use for bases, like walnut or maple, are kiln dried then sealed prior to their commercial use as plaques, trophy stands, or in this case diorama bases. The harder the wood, the less movement (except oak which can be a happy wood when it wants to). But remember to treat any bare wood you might use first to minimize damage from the celuclay or other ground materials.

Plywood, is more stable. Since it is layers of wood with grain running perpendicular to the successive layer, the stress is kept to a minimum and spread out along the surface. This with the use of extremely strong glues and resins to laminate the layers keep it under control, and movement from expansion and contraction is kept to a minimum, almost negligible. But not all together impervious. (throw a piece of plywood out in the yard and see what happens...) Its draw backs are simple in that the edging must be covered to make for a more aesthetic presentation. This can either be done with picture frames, moulding or quarter or half round, dependent on your skill level and access to tools. Any cutting or routing you do must have sharp blades because the laminate layers are so thin you will get an amazing amount of tearout along the edge. Run a piece of masking tape across the edge you are cutting and it will minimize the tearout. You can still see your trim line through the tape and it will make for a cleaner cut. I actualy use a utility knife to mark my cutting line. It scores the grain at the intended edge and makes for a very clean cut. Also use a blade for plywood. The smaller/finer teeth make for a cleaner cut.
Since there are plywoods of almost every species of available woods, some very attractive bases can be made. Again seal the base first then use your ground material.

My favorite is MDF, medium density fibre board. This stuff is essentialy a wood pulp and fibre composite used in the mass produced furniture industry. Not particle board which uses small chips of wood pressed together and not melamine which is just finer chips of wood pressed together, this stuff is a fiber. It accepts laminates, and laminate composites very handily for different effects. It can be tooled (edges with a router) for some very nice edge detail and because it machines smooth it needs almost no sanding to smooth out machine marks. It is stable, heavy and makes for a very nice base. My suggestion though that because it is a composite of wood and paper fibres, that you seal it before you apply your celuclay. As it will swell and make surface blisters if it is made damp. A polyeuathane or paint primer is what I use. Once coated I drill a few holes in it for "grab" and score it up a little and then apply my base material. Because of its smoothness, it accepts paint nice and can be faux painted to look like everything from stone to metal to wood. Its weight makes it an ample base for anything top heavy ike a/c in flight or tall figures. It is also cheap. a 4' x 8' sheet of 3/4 inch mdf will run you about $10-15 depending on your location. Get the guys at home depot to cut it for you if you feel sheepish about doing it yourself. I use the stuff on a pretty regular basis and have never had any real problems with it. If you do cut, machine or sand it, WEAR A DUST MASK. Its pretty noxious in dust form and you'll end up looking like you've been tear gassed. Again use a plywood blade or a rotozip tool. It is available in everything from 1/2" to 1".

Now you know way more than you ever wanted to about wood products. But I figure if you know the mechanics you'll make a better decsion down the road and avoid heartbreak from a damaged or warped base.

Mike
Mike "Imagination is the dye that colors our lives" Marcus Aurellius A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn...that was fun!"
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA, GA
Posted by erush on Thursday, July 3, 2003 7:09 AM
I think Mike stayed at the Holiday Inn Express last night Big Smile [:D]

Good info Mike!!

Eric
Hi, I'm Eric and I'm a Modelholic too. I think I have PE poisioning.     "Friendly fire...isn't"
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 3, 2003 1:10 PM
MDF rules!!!!!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 3, 2003 3:39 PM
wow thanks!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 2:12 PM
MDF is good but if you purchase furniture grade hardwood the moisture content should be less the 5 to 6%. You will not get 1/4 inch of movement per inch. I have had wood at 12% and the movement was less than a 1/16 of an inch. Seal it and you should be fine. And just about any hardwood looks 100% better than MDF. I have started using MDF as a base but the trimming out the base in oak or maple. Just remember seal it and if you use any screws in the edge of the MDF PREDRILL or it will split. I use biscuits when attaching the trim, no nails or screws. If you need a diagram of what I am talking about let me know.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Posted by Jeeves on Thursday, July 17, 2003 12:53 AM
I am about to start a diorama for my GMC 6X6 and need only a small base-- but I want something that can have a cover on it....I went to Kaybee to try and find those model car display cases, but they no longer sell them. Any ideas?
Mike
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 17, 2003 6:32 PM
Hobby Lobby or Wal Mart
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 18, 2003 12:12 AM
I check Wal-Mart once in a while and they don't have anything.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Posted by Jeeves on Friday, July 18, 2003 12:59 AM
Well-- I found a place online that sells the Nascar display bases.....I figure a 1:24 acrylic case with an oak base should be big enough for the 1:35 I am building...I plan on putting my GMC on a muddy road. It was $18 with free shipping.
Mike
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Sunny Florida
Posted by renarts on Friday, July 18, 2003 1:15 AM
Thats a pretty good price Jeeves. Someting to keep in mind.

THeres a NASCAR model store down the road from me. I think its time to make a visit.

Mike
Mike "Imagination is the dye that colors our lives" Marcus Aurellius A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn...that was fun!"
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Canada
Posted by gar26 on Friday, July 18, 2003 1:37 PM
Wood is good for a base but also don't forget that some things around the home can be used. I just finished a 1/35 scale diorama of a sniper team in the winter. I created my scene on a old peanut butter lid. So really anything can be used.
Good luck and have fun
gpebernat
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Steinwedel, Lower Saxony,Germany
Posted by tango35 on Tuesday, July 22, 2003 9:57 AM
Hey you can do the quick way :
Plywood ( 9mm ) and glueing sandpaper ( for runways and roads, or using white glue and snowing grass from the railroad model stuff - voila ready
Thomas
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, July 27, 2003 7:24 PM
thanks for all the help Big Smile [:D]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, July 29, 2003 6:18 AM
MDF!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, July 29, 2003 5:32 PM
Hey! styrafoam insulation works pretty well' you just have to cover the sides with wood or something else.
I use wood strips and run them along all four sides
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: United Kingdom
Posted by U-96 on Wednesday, December 3, 2003 4:48 AM
thanks Mike, your post answered pretty much everything I wanted to know about making a base. Praise be to the forum search.

Have a well deserved *bump* for anyone with similar questions Smile [:)]
On the bench: 1/35 Dragon Sturmpanzer Late Recent: Academy 1/48 Bf-109D (Nov 06) Academy 1/72 A-37 (Oct 06) Revell 1/72 Merkava III (Aug 06) Italeri 1/35 T-26 (Aug 06)
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Sunny Florida
Posted by renarts on Thursday, December 4, 2003 2:29 AM
My pleasure. Glad it was of some help.

Mike
Mike "Imagination is the dye that colors our lives" Marcus Aurellius A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn...that was fun!"
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 4, 2003 4:15 AM
Depends on the size of the Dio.

For most smaller ones wood plagues or tode(sp?)-painting plagues will work fine. Hit the Arts supply stores and look if they got wood plagues, taxidermists might also have some nice ones.

For really big ones, better make your own wood-bases (plans and drawings are available).
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