Realistic rock?

Make a chicken wire over wood or rod frame first. Next, cover with paper mache covered with plaster or plaster impregnated gauze (like for a cast) works great and will give you the texture you need. Sand will look like that, sand, not rock. Check in the train section of your local hobby shop, they should have landscape/mountain kits for just what you are looking for.

Build the substructure of your mountain by stacking and gluing styrofoam blocks together to approximate the shape you want. Further sculpting can be done with a hot-wire foam cutter or a razor saw to help refine the contours. Cover the foam with plaster bandage, (available at craft stores or model RR stores). This will smooth out the shapes and fill in the gaps. Then slather on a slightly thinned mix of plaster of paris, further sculpting it with hand tools for texture. While the plaster is still wet, use a tea strainer or a piece of window screen, and sift dry plaster onto the wet plaster. This will produce a fine grained texture over the smooth, wet plaster. Let dry and paint as desired.

I go with what Gimp says, step-by-step.
Kinda creepy,actually. LOL

Don't Woodland scenics do realistic rock kit ?

Scott.

Gimp,

Do you suggest any particular "type" of foam? Any recommendations on "suppliers"? That's to say, a craft store or art store, something like that?

Thanks,
-O

QUOTE: Originally posted by oortiz10 Do you suggest any particular "type" of foam? Any recommendations on "suppliers"? That's to say, a craft store or art store, something like that?

Many Model Railroaders build the underlying structure of their landscapes with what is called "blueboard," a high density, lightweight foam board found at most building supply stores. It comes in various thicknesses from 1/2 inch (I think) on up to 2 or so inches, and can be found either pink or blue. The pink, if I recall, contains formaldahyde (I know that was spelled wrong) which makes it undesirable to some folks. The board is bought and layered, gluing it with standard putty glues.

It works great for a lightweight base on which to do the finish surfacing.

Being styrafoam in nature this material melts when in contact with some chemicals, of course, so the user must beware of that.

Woodland Scenics makes a great set of plaster molds. These will be very useful in your surface detail.

I collect styrofoam packaging material to use for my diorama substructures. Electronic equipment boxes are a great source, as are old styrofoam ice chests. Woodland Scenics also makes large sheets of styrofoam especially for this purpose. You can also use the pink rigid foam house insulation, as well as the urethane spray foam in a can, available at Home Deplorable, Mall-Wart, etc. The spray foam is a little tricky to use. You need to build a box, or at least a corner or two, to contain it. Spray a little bit at a time, letting it fully expand, and then adding more layers gradually to build up the thickness you want. After it hardens, you can trim off any excess and sculpt it with a razor saw or a sharp knife.

Thanks gang. I have some good ideas to start with. I appreciate the help.

Cheers,
-O

Just as another note, after I glue the styrofoam sheets/blocks together and they have had a chance to dry, I run the border edges through the table saw, just to make sure they are smooth and in square. This makes finishing the outside edges of the diorama much easier and neater looking.