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a.t.c. 1/350 scale airport

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  • Member since
    December 2004
Posted by stan2004 on Monday, April 10, 2006 4:16 PM
 curtis remington wrote:

now the leutenent colonel wants l.e.d. taxi lights any suggestions on how to do this?

At your scale consider fiber-optic bundles common in lighting displays - sold many places by the foot such as http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/
Above shows 64 strands - each 0.25mm diameter and very flexible.  Mounting as simple as drilling 0.25mm holes.  In this example all strands lit by a single blue LED.  For elevated blue runway lights, push fiber up a bit and add a dab of yellow paint on the stem.  You might only need one lamp per color and still illuminate a thousand points of light.  If diorama for instructional purposes where lights selectively engage, get a module that can alternate flash two yellow lamps for, say, a wig-wag.  I think there are modules that can simulate a runway rabbit strobe for low-vis conditions.
  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: kitchener ont. canada
Posted by curtis remington on Thursday, April 6, 2006 7:32 PM
i'm lazy if i have pics i'll sendem to you and you can post them.
Any thing can be fixed with enough gun tape and para cord
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, April 6, 2006 7:24 PM
I will take some pics I can show you how to use photobucket.
  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: kitchener ont. canada
Posted by curtis remington on Wednesday, April 5, 2006 9:11 PM
it works but alas i'm can not use a computor (well).
Any thing can be fixed with enough gun tape and para cord
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, April 5, 2006 6:54 PM
It will be built to Gowings requirements, He is the boss. And Curtis does amazing work on his models I am sure he will not disapoint, I will have to take pics of the progress though I dont think Curtis has a working camera. And this airport will be ten time better than the one useed on the six-week cource, Curtis can vouge for that. this one will be in sclae and wont just be a airport painted on a table LOLBig Smile [:D]
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Burlington, Ontario Canada
Posted by gburdon on Tuesday, April 4, 2006 3:06 PM

 Raventutor11 wrote:
I am the ATC instructor by the way

I am (Ret.) Sgt. Smith of 822 Tutor squadron, and a good friend of Sgt. Remington as you know him on here Curtis.

Raventutor11:

Hopefully the information I provided to Curtis will enable him to build to your requirements. Be sure and post pic's as the build progresses and its eventual use at your Squadron.

Cheers;

Gregory

VETERAN - (Noun) - Definition - One who signed a blank cheque as: “Payable to The People of Canada, Up To and Including My Life."
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, April 4, 2006 2:06 PM
I am the ATC instructor by the way

I am (Ret.) Sgt. Smith of 822 Tutor squadron, and a good friend of Sgt. Remington as you know him on here Curtis.

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Burlington, Ontario Canada
Posted by gburdon on Monday, March 27, 2006 6:20 PM
 curtis remington wrote:
 gburdon wrote:
 curtis remington wrote:

now the leutenent colonel wants l.e.d. taxi lights any suggestions on how to do this?

Curtis;

For the L.E.D. lighting look in your yellow pages under electronics supply (or if I remember right in Kitchener there is a place under surplus where you could get these in bulk) Once you have them it is a simple series circuit much like a string of Christmas lights. The can be tacked down to the base once wired and covered over with basic groundcover.

Now on to your buildings, hangars etc.

Depending on what tools you have available these can be made quite easily. If you are intent on the quonset hut style (semi circular ribbed steel type) You can cut the ends from balsa or a similar softwood. To skin them and to keep your costs for materiels down, visit a local dollar store and pick up as many "FOR SALE" or similar type signs. These are normally printed/painted on thin styrene and the reverse side is plain white. Trim the length and glue the skin to the two end formers you cut. You can add windows doors etc. with scraps of styrene from the signs or other sources for the trim work and the door(s) and use clear plastic from packaging materials or cut from an old CD case.

To make square, rectangular etc. tyoe buildings. Use a piece of wood as the center and build around it with styrene from your signs from the dollar store.

The Control Tower can be made the same way if you want a square base if you want a round base visit the plumbing section of the hardware store and use a piece of ABS tubing. The main windows are normally tinted. Use either Tamiya's clear colour selection or cheat and load thinned food colouring into an airbrush and give each pane the colour of choice.

The runway(s) apron etc can be made anynumber of ways. For the scale you mention you could use strips of baseboard from the hardware cut and slotted together to form the various areas. These are cheap by the foot and usually you can find off cuts for next to nothing.

To lay in the various ground work etc. visit a hobbyshop with a train section. You can use the pre-fab "grass" mat that comes in a roll for the various flat areas around and between runway and this can be cut with scissors. To vary the terrain around you can either use scraps of insulating foam to build the terrain up or you can use the train modellers method of strips of cardboard and paper mache. See the folks at the hobby or train shop for more on that method it is easy.

To paint the overall area. Don't waste your hobby paint. When you're at the hardware store have a look in the mis-tinted house paint section. Look for earth tones (or ask) Usually you will find a number of various browns, greens, etc. and because they were not right and the store wants to get rid of them it's good paint for cheap. You can use a roller for the larger areas. Bristle brushes for the rest. Don't use your good modelling brushes for this work. By some of the cheap house paint section brushes or the foam type.

If you want to add a pond or similar water area use a scrap piece of plexi-glass cut to the appropriate shape and secure it to the base, but remember to build the groundwork up around it.

Other than that this should (I hope) get you started. If you need more information. Let me know.

Cheers;

Gregory  

dude thats just the info i needed, for the hangers i'm gunna use coryagated sheet styrene and for the apron and runway old sand paper (my opa owns a custome stair company).

Curtis;

I am  glad that the infromation proved useful. One other tip for you. To vary the buildings construction and final look. Try making the roofs from different material. You could have a couple of tiled roofs made from fine grade sandpaper like emery cloth. You could also have a flat roof style with large sections of concrete made from the thin card board that is used to back pads of paper.

As for your idea using corrugated styrene, that will work well. To add to the appearance remember to scribe in sectional piece lines as this type of hangar would not have been made from one long sheet but from many small sheets in rows. One other item I forgot is that the hangars and all the buildings need to have the appearance of a foundation. Because of the scale you are working in this can be done quite simply by placing each on balsa wood strips painted to represent either concrete or brickwork.

The last bit of information. As you mentioned your Opa's stair company you may be able to obtain more than enough sawdust. If you take the fine sawdust and sift it through a fine mesh screen you will be left with perfect ground cover. Use RIT fabric dye to change the colour to the required greens, browns etc. Once this dries after being dyed you will have ample amounts of grass and earth tone material. When you paint the overall ground cover with the house paint I suggested. Sprinkle the sawdust over the fresh paint it will hold the groundcover without the need of glue when dry. You can build up bushes, hedges etc by applying more sawdust to areas. If you need to place a drop of white glue and sprinkle the sawdust onto it until you have the size of hedge or bush you want.

For trees and larger you can use twigs or  weed stems from the garden or nearby woods for the trunks. To make the top foilage use either Lichen from the Train Modeller section of the hobby shop or use teased out Scotchbrite Scrub Pads. Glue either of these to the "trunk" to form the basis of your tree. Mix a 50/50 white glue to water with a drop of liquid soap and pour it in a spray bottle. Mist your treetop and soak thoroughly. Then sprinkle it with your coloured sawdust for leaves. Plant the tree and blend the trunk into the ground work with plaster.

Hopefully this will further assist you. If you need more you know where to ask.

Cheers;

Gregory

 

VETERAN - (Noun) - Definition - One who signed a blank cheque as: “Payable to The People of Canada, Up To and Including My Life."
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Burlington, Ontario Canada
Posted by gburdon on Monday, March 27, 2006 6:19 PM
 curtis remington wrote:
 gburdon wrote:
 curtis remington wrote:

now the leutenent colonel wants l.e.d. taxi lights any suggestions on how to do this?

Curtis;

For the L.E.D. lighting look in your yellow pages under electronics supply (or if I remember right in Kitchener there is a place under surplus where you could get these in bulk) Once you have them it is a simple series circuit much like a string of Christmas lights. The can be tacked down to the base once wired and covered over with basic groundcover.

Now on to your buildings, hangars etc.

Depending on what tools you have available these can be made quite easily. If you are intent on the quonset hut style (semi circular ribbed steel type) You can cut the ends from balsa or a similar softwood. To skin them and to keep your costs for materiels down, visit a local dollar store and pick up as many "FOR SALE" or similar type signs. These are normally printed/painted on thin styrene and the reverse side is plain white. Trim the length and glue the skin to the two end formers you cut. You can add windows doors etc. with scraps of styrene from the signs or other sources for the trim work and the door(s) and use clear plastic from packaging materials or cut from an old CD case.

To make square, rectangular etc. tyoe buildings. Use a piece of wood as the center and build around it with styrene from your signs from the dollar store.

The Control Tower can be made the same way if you want a square base if you want a round base visit the plumbing section of the hardware store and use a piece of ABS tubing. The main windows are normally tinted. Use either Tamiya's clear colour selection or cheat and load thinned food colouring into an airbrush and give each pane the colour of choice.

The runway(s) apron etc can be made anynumber of ways. For the scale you mention you could use strips of baseboard from the hardware cut and slotted together to form the various areas. These are cheap by the foot and usually you can find off cuts for next to nothing.

To lay in the various ground work etc. visit a hobbyshop with a train section. You can use the pre-fab "grass" mat that comes in a roll for the various flat areas around and between runway and this can be cut with scissors. To vary the terrain around you can either use scraps of insulating foam to build the terrain up or you can use the train modellers method of strips of cardboard and paper mache. See the folks at the hobby or train shop for more on that method it is easy.

To paint the overall area. Don't waste your hobby paint. When you're at the hardware store have a look in the mis-tinted house paint section. Look for earth tones (or ask) Usually you will find a number of various browns, greens, etc. and because they were not right and the store wants to get rid of them it's good paint for cheap. You can use a roller for the larger areas. Bristle brushes for the rest. Don't use your good modelling brushes for this work. By some of the cheap house paint section brushes or the foam type.

If you want to add a pond or similar water area use a scrap piece of plexi-glass cut to the appropriate shape and secure it to the base, but remember to build the groundwork up around it.

Other than that this should (I hope) get you started. If you need more information. Let me know.

Cheers;

Gregory  

dude thats just the info i needed, for the hangers i'm gunna use coryagated sheet styrene and for the apron and runway old sand paper (my opa owns a custome stair company).

Curtis;

I am  glad that the infromation proved useful. One other tip for you. To vary the buildings construction and final look. Try making the roofs from different material. You could have a couple of tiled roofs made from fine grade sandpaper like emery cloth. You could also have a flat roof style with large sections of concrete made from the thin card board that is used to back pads of paper.

As for your idea using corrugated styrene, that will work well. To add to the appearance remember to scribe in sectional piece lines as this type of hangar would not have been made from one long sheet but from many small sheets in rows. One other item I forgot is that the hangars and all the buildings need to have the appearance of a foundation. Because of the scale you are working in this can be done quite simply by placing each on balsa wood strips painted to represent either concrete or brickwork.

The last bit of information. As you mentioned your Opa's stair company you may be able to obtain more than enough sawdust. If you take the fine sawdust and sift it through a fine mesh screen you will be left with perfect ground cover. Use RIT fabric dye to change the colour to the required greens, browns etc. Once this dries after being dyed you will have ample amounts of grass and earth tone material. When you paint the overall ground cover with the house paint I suggested. Sprinkle the sawdust over the fresh paint it will hold the groundcover without the need of glue when dry. You can build up bushes, hedges etc by applying more sawdust to areas. If you need to place a drop of white glue and sprinkle the sawdust onto it until you have the size of hedge or bush you want.

For trees and larger you can use twigs or  weed stems from the garden or nearby woods for the trunks. To make the top foilage use either Lichen from the Train Modeller section of the hobby shop or use teased out Scotchbrite Scrub Pads. Glue either of these to the "trunk" to form the basis of your tree. Mix a 50/50 white glue to water with a drop of liquid soap and pour it in a spray bottle. Mist your treetop and soak thoroughly. Then sprinkle it with your coloured sawdust for leaves. Plant the tree and blend the trunk into the ground work with plaster.

Hopefully this will further assist you. If you need more you know where to ask.

Cheers;

Gregory

 

VETERAN - (Noun) - Definition - One who signed a blank cheque as: “Payable to The People of Canada, Up To and Including My Life."
  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: kitchener ont. canada
Posted by curtis remington on Thursday, March 23, 2006 5:52 PM
 gburdon wrote:
 curtis remington wrote:

now the leutenent colonel wants l.e.d. taxi lights any suggestions on how to do this?

Curtis;

For the L.E.D. lighting look in your yellow pages under electronics supply (or if I remember right in Kitchener there is a place under surplus where you could get these in bulk) Once you have them it is a simple series circuit much like a string of Christmas lights. The can be tacked down to the base once wired and covered over with basic groundcover.

Now on to your buildings, hangars etc.

Depending on what tools you have available these can be made quite easily. If you are intent on the quonset hut style (semi circular ribbed steel type) You can cut the ends from balsa or a similar softwood. To skin them and to keep your costs for materiels down, visit a local dollar store and pick up as many "FOR SALE" or similar type signs. These are normally printed/painted on thin styrene and the reverse side is plain white. Trim the length and glue the skin to the two end formers you cut. You can add windows doors etc. with scraps of styrene from the signs or other sources for the trim work and the door(s) and use clear plastic from packaging materials or cut from an old CD case.

To make square, rectangular etc. tyoe buildings. Use a piece of wood as the center and build around it with styrene from your signs from the dollar store.

The Control Tower can be made the same way if you want a square base if you want a round base visit the plumbing section of the hardware store and use a piece of ABS tubing. The main windows are normally tinted. Use either Tamiya's clear colour selection or cheat and load thinned food colouring into an airbrush and give each pane the colour of choice.

The runway(s) apron etc can be made anynumber of ways. For the scale you mention you could use strips of baseboard from the hardware cut and slotted together to form the various areas. These are cheap by the foot and usually you can find off cuts for next to nothing.

To lay in the various ground work etc. visit a hobbyshop with a train section. You can use the pre-fab "grass" mat that comes in a roll for the various flat areas around and between runway and this can be cut with scissors. To vary the terrain around you can either use scraps of insulating foam to build the terrain up or you can use the train modellers method of strips of cardboard and paper mache. See the folks at the hobby or train shop for more on that method it is easy.

To paint the overall area. Don't waste your hobby paint. When you're at the hardware store have a look in the mis-tinted house paint section. Look for earth tones (or ask) Usually you will find a number of various browns, greens, etc. and because they were not right and the store wants to get rid of them it's good paint for cheap. You can use a roller for the larger areas. Bristle brushes for the rest. Don't use your good modelling brushes for this work. By some of the cheap house paint section brushes or the foam type.

If you want to add a pond or similar water area use a scrap piece of plexi-glass cut to the appropriate shape and secure it to the base, but remember to build the groundwork up around it.

Other than that this should (I hope) get you started. If you need more information. Let me know.

Cheers;

Gregory  

dude thats just the info i needed, for the hangers i'm gunna use coryagated sheet styrene and for the apron and runway old sand paper (my opa owns a custome stair company).

Any thing can be fixed with enough gun tape and para cord
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Burlington, Ontario Canada
Posted by gburdon on Thursday, March 23, 2006 4:38 PM
 curtis remington wrote:

now the leutenent colonel wants l.e.d. taxi lights any suggestions on how to do this?

Curtis;

For the L.E.D. lighting look in your yellow pages under electronics supply (or if I remember right in Kitchener there is a place under surplus where you could get these in bulk) Once you have them it is a simple series circuit much like a string of Christmas lights. The can be tacked down to the base once wired and covered over with basic groundcover.

Now on to your buildings, hangars etc.

Depending on what tools you have available these can be made quite easily. If you are intent on the quonset hut style (semi circular ribbed steel type) You can cut the ends from balsa or a similar softwood. To skin them and to keep your costs for materiels down, visit a local dollar store and pick up as many "FOR SALE" or similar type signs. These are normally printed/painted on thin styrene and the reverse side is plain white. Trim the length and glue the skin to the two end formers you cut. You can add windows doors etc. with scraps of styrene from the signs or other sources for the trim work and the door(s) and use clear plastic from packaging materials or cut from an old CD case.

To make square, rectangular etc. tyoe buildings. Use a piece of wood as the center and build around it with styrene from your signs from the dollar store.

The Control Tower can be made the same way if you want a square base if you want a round base visit the plumbing section of the hardware store and use a piece of ABS tubing. The main windows are normally tinted. Use either Tamiya's clear colour selection or cheat and load thinned food colouring into an airbrush and give each pane the colour of choice.

The runway(s) apron etc can be made anynumber of ways. For the scale you mention you could use strips of baseboard from the hardware cut and slotted together to form the various areas. These are cheap by the foot and usually you can find off cuts for next to nothing.

To lay in the various ground work etc. visit a hobbyshop with a train section. You can use the pre-fab "grass" mat that comes in a roll for the various flat areas around and between runway and this can be cut with scissors. To vary the terrain around you can either use scraps of insulating foam to build the terrain up or you can use the train modellers method of strips of cardboard and paper mache. See the folks at the hobby or train shop for more on that method it is easy.

To paint the overall area. Don't waste your hobby paint. When you're at the hardware store have a look in the mis-tinted house paint section. Look for earth tones (or ask) Usually you will find a number of various browns, greens, etc. and because they were not right and the store wants to get rid of them it's good paint for cheap. You can use a roller for the larger areas. Bristle brushes for the rest. Don't use your good modelling brushes for this work. By some of the cheap house paint section brushes or the foam type.

If you want to add a pond or similar water area use a scrap piece of plexi-glass cut to the appropriate shape and secure it to the base, but remember to build the groundwork up around it.

Other than that this should (I hope) get you started. If you need more information. Let me know.

Cheers;

Gregory  

VETERAN - (Noun) - Definition - One who signed a blank cheque as: “Payable to The People of Canada, Up To and Including My Life."
  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: kitchener ont. canada
Posted by curtis remington on Thursday, March 23, 2006 3:06 PM
i know that but i need ideas on how to do this and also make scale buildings for it
Any thing can be fixed with enough gun tape and para cord
  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by DURR on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 10:42 PM
quite a project ahead of you
  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: kitchener ont. canada
Posted by curtis remington on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 9:12 PM

now the leutenent colonel wants l.e.d. taxi lights any suggestions on how to do this?

Any thing can be fixed with enough gun tape and para cord
  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: kitchener ont. canada
Posted by curtis remington on Thursday, March 16, 2006 3:34 PM
i was thinking an american naval airstation layout
Any thing can be fixed with enough gun tape and para cord
  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: kitchener ont. canada
a.t.c. 1/350 scale airport
Posted by curtis remington on Wednesday, March 15, 2006 8:00 PM
well this week i was presented with a challenge from my buddy who is the a.t.c. (air traffic control) instructor at the local cadet squadron to build a 1/350 scale sim airport for the course. the area will be the size of a standard bedroom door and will have 1 north-south and 1 northeast-southwest runway, an apron, 2 helipads, and 2-4 hangers. i need advice on how to build the hangers and rest of the buildings also all thouse little details, so all thouse little nit pickers out there i will need for once your help.
Any thing can be fixed with enough gun tape and para cord
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