 wolfie wrote: |
| Yeah I am struggling with skin colour, anyone got any suggestions? I'm mainly using Tamiya Flat Flesh XF-15, and what do you use if doing a darked coloured skin? |
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First, dump the Tamiya paint. When I was using it 20 years ago, the flesh was not usable by itself. I'd have to add brown to get a human looking shade to it. The current formula is not brush friendly.
Here's a linik to my gallery at Armorama (The big diorama is not my work.) This is how I get those flesh tone:
I only do washes where I want to add shading where the effect is too fine for a brush. For this, I use artist oils with regular old thinner.
Just about everything else is Vallejo or Andrea acrylics. For basic caucasian flesh, I use beige red. I'll add a brown to this for shadows (saddle brown, charred flesh or dark fleshtone) this is mixed in a very thin solution with tap water. I add thin applications under the jaw, above and under the eyes, on the lower cheek, inside the ears, along the side of the nose, in frown/smile lines, on either side of any neck musculature, at the edge of the hairline, and in the cleft of the chin. Adding more of the darkening color and even more water for darker shadows in the deepest recesses.
For highlights, I add light flesh or sunny skintone to the base color. Like the shadown, this is applied in very dilute layers on the highlights such as the upper cheek, the ridge of the nose, along the upper lip, the tip of the chin, the highpoint of the neck musculature, the eyebrow ridge, the tips of the ears and the jaw line. The highest points, such as the ridge of the nose gets some straight (thinned) light flesh.
At this point, I only dry brush where there is texture, such as fur or hair.
An extremely diluted base color can be applied to tie all the shades together.
For eyes, I use light flesh with a brown or blue iris. This is painted after the base color has been laid down and will be shaped by the subsequent color applications.
For much of this, I use a 20/0 Floquil brand brush.