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Dullcote/Thinner reaction?

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  • Member since
    February 2005
Dullcote/Thinner reaction?
Posted by Kevleerey on Wednesday, February 14, 2007 11:35 PM

I was working on a Sherman and I had weathered it some and dullcoted it.


 Then today I decided to put another wash on it and it dried whiteBanged Head [banghead]. I used thinner with paint like usual but I think the thinner reacted with the dullcote. So I cleaned it off with thinner and wiped it off and now I tried it again with acrylic paint and water and it worked fine. Would this be because of the Dullcote/thinner combo, or did I do something else wrong? Also, on the tracks, how much of them is rubber and what's metal?
                                         thanks!
 --------------------------------Kevin-----------------------------------------------------

  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: AusTx, Live Music Capitol of the World
Posted by SteveM on Thursday, February 15, 2007 7:47 AM

What kind of thinner did you use the first time?

The blocks would be rubber, the connectors are metal... I think. 

One of the pros will come by and help you out shortly. But I can tell you that I can have the same problem. I try to use the least aggressive thinner to wash that I possibly can. Tell you the truth, I'm waiting to hear the responses like you are.

Sherman looks good.

Steve 

Steve M.

On the workbench: ginormous Kharkov dio

 

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by sofasurfer on Thursday, February 15, 2007 8:00 AM

I actually had that happen with my dullcoat. In all the corners it collected and turned white. I went crazy. I cound it helped when I blew the excess out of the corners while it dried. I was using humbrol flat clear and paint thinner. I believe the culprit is one of two things: The clear coat was too old or the enemal reacted with the paint thinner. Your problem may be due to th second hypothisis.

jason

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Boston
Posted by Wilbur Wright on Thursday, February 15, 2007 12:32 PM

<>Your dullcoat was applied to heavily...............that is exactly why it happened.

 

<>very light coats are required. 2 or 3 light coats. allow sufficient drying time in between as well! preferably overnight!!!!!!!

<>The stuff comes out of the can very heavy. also keep at least 12 inches or more away when spraying. 

  • Member since
    February 2005
Posted by Kevleerey on Thursday, February 15, 2007 3:24 PM

Steve-The first time I used Model Master thinner and the second time was testors. This worked OK before the dullcoat. So I'm pretty sure that had something to do with it.
Jason- I got new dullcoat because I had another can but it was pretty old.
   I'd say you're probably right about it being too thick, though when I applied it I didn't think it was a very heavy coat, but I'm not used to using it so I didn't know how thick to put it.
     So the only part of the track that is exposed metal is the pins and connectors along the outside? Thats what it looks like in most of the pictures I've seen but I wanted to make sure. Would the spare links on the hull be painted or left bare metal and rubber? Also, are the return rollers metal? on the box art they look black like on the road wheels.
                                                                            Thanks for your input!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------Kevin
Oh, one more thing- what would be the most common way for the crew to get in the tank, from the front, probably, but would the hatch on the turret or the drivers hatch or all be the main entry points?                                
                  Thanks!

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