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My first 1/35 dio "12th SS in normandy: escapeing the falise Gap."

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  • Member since
    May 2008
My first 1/35 dio "12th SS in normandy: escapeing the falise Gap."
Posted by mpkev31b on Thursday, May 22, 2008 1:15 PM

hey all, new here just finished this project, dragon 1/35 panzer IIIF with dragon 12th SS panzer grenidiers.

 

used railroad trees, and grass and found this amazing stuff Craola air drying clay.. awsome stuff to use for ground it molds easy and drys hard as a rock.. find it cleaner and easier then plaster. only problem i ran into was afteri set the clay and added the scenery it was hard to clean up my base board. i tried my best but i dont think it looks to bad.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Thursday, May 22, 2008 1:28 PM

It's a bit hard to see details in the pictures. It seems most of your light is from the reflection on the wall behind your subject, leaving much of your work literally in the dark. Try setting up your light source on the same plane as your camera.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    May 2008
Posted by mpkev31b on Thursday, May 22, 2008 1:54 PM
its kind of the point, the shadows are spose to be there hence the trees casting shadows, the details you see are what you would see if your standing here, bright beems of light on it make it not so "realistic".
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Staten Island, New York
Posted by kenny_conklin on Thursday, May 22, 2008 4:18 PM
good job , the one tree that has no foliage doesnt look painted and just looks like plastic placed in your dio . may want to try to fix that :)
"Rakkasans Lead the Way!"
  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: Wilmington, NC
Posted by mark983 on Thursday, May 22, 2008 4:45 PM

Great first Dio!!!  I love the action from the Normandy campaign...A word on the trees...I did the same as you on my first dio...using those "Railroad" foliage...Sometimes they just don't look so real...I went back and stripped mine off and went "Natural".  I pulled some small twigs out of the ground roots and all..cleaned them off, turn them upside down, trim the roots and BAM..instant tree with branches...I then sprayed the branches with glue water and rolled them in oregano leaves...Looked pretty good and smelled good too!! Laugh [(-D] 

Other than that, great work..look forward to seeing more!!

Mark

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: t.r.f. mn.
Posted by detailfreak on Thursday, May 22, 2008 6:34 PM
i found a very common ornamental shrub that makes nice trees and bushes,just don't know what its called.if i remember or find out i'll let you know

[View:http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w1/g-earl828/]  http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/cycledupes/1000Roadwheels4BuildBadge.jpg

  • Member since
    May 2008
Posted by mpkev31b on Thursday, May 22, 2008 7:45 PM

ya the hobby store had som more "real" looking trees but they were $20 bucks a peice i bought these came with  7 in a pack with the leave material for 9 bucks :)

 

oh the dead tree ill probably add leaves to it just was lazy and dident. 

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: Wilmington, NC
Posted by mark983 on Thursday, May 22, 2008 10:29 PM

Hey...don't stress about the trees...you've got a great first dio...in fact as you do more you'll look back and say..."I should have done this or should have done that".  There are so many techniques out there, you can't possibly know them all or use them all...You just build it for you.  Part of the fun is learning more project to project.  Not to get old school on you but when I started dioramas back in '88, I picked up the book "How to build dioramas" by Shep Paine.  I was hooked!  After reading that, I built my first Sherman diorama and entered a local competition and won 2nd place.  The judges told me the reason I didnt win first place was because I didn't sink the tank deeper into my "wet" earth.  Details man!!  It'll kill you everytime..but I took it and learned from it...Best of luck...By the way...welcome to the forum!!

Mark

  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: AusTx, Live Music Capitol of the World
Posted by SteveM on Friday, May 23, 2008 7:52 AM

Sign - Welcome [#welcome]

If this is truly your first, then you've done very well. The muddy road looks awesome. The more detail-oriented I get, the less satisfied I am with store bought trees and foigage. It's just a matter of taste. Your trees look good.

I agree with an earlier post about wanting to see better lighted shots. I understand your point about realism and shadows, and you've achieved that effect. But now, I'd like to see some focused detail shots of the figures and the Pz III.

Steve

 

Steve M.

On the workbench: ginormous Kharkov dio

 

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: New Mexico
Posted by johncpo on Friday, May 23, 2008 9:19 AM

 Great work! I've been building armor in 1/35th to the max and HO railroad layouts right in the same room. I have 1/48th scale WW 2 Aircraft hanging from the ceiling as well, and in many ways the 3 all work into the same application of painting (all acrylic paints) and weathering.

 I posted many threads on these forums as well as Model Railroader and included many tips on each "side" of the hobby, one thing I have learned over the many years is ground texturing is the same for all dioramas. I use the blocks of soft green florist foam, the kind that looks like bricks, there are many possibiltiies in the use of this product to complete dioramas the size of yours and up to RR diorama sections.

 After cutting the blocks down to the right thickness in varying layers I glue it to the scenery base board with Elmers white glue. After the glue dries I start to coat the foam with acrylic base coats of earth tone paints, then while the paint is drying I use the tracks, wheels or other means to make the impressions in the mud or dirt wtih the same tracks or wheels on the vehicles that will be in the diorama. Much in the same way you show in your fine work. I have been doing this with the foam bricks now for about 20 years and the cost of the foam is much less than any other medium I have found. The main advantage of the foam bricks is the cost, only a few $$$ for three in a pack. Many people overlook the art/craft section of the local hobby store and miss out on the fantastic amounts of diorama material in bulk. All of this mixes with HO rr scenery and large scale military, it's all the same technique and crossing from one to the other ahs taught me a great deal.

 Experimentation is the key. Try making streams with "Minwax" Glossy Polycrylic wood sealant. Mix thouroughly following the directions as if you were coating a piece of woodwork. Pour into a trough (stream bed) and let the sealant flow, you will have to dam one end of the trough until the fluid sets up. Keep adding layers about 1/4 inch at a time and you should start seeing the effects of the water -look. Once again it is all about experimenting with any non-hobby product. Home improvement and craft products are out there and one starts to see the benefits of using the bulk items. One quart can of Polycrylic would last the average modeler a lifetime for intermidiate water scenery jobs.

 One day I will borrow my mother-in-law's digital camera as I am still a film photographer and post photos of some of the ideas I have mentioned on this and the Model RR forums. But as with all of us in these hobbies I like to be 100% with the scenes I would be refering to, so please be patient. I have had a strong influence in the arts from a father who made huge contributions to the photography world through his work at Eastman Kodak and my mother who used watercolors to create all sorts of scenery paintings. So I have ahead start in the arts and my canvas is in the form of military dioramas and trains.

 I hope I have shed a little light on this subject and the fact that the diorama in this post is somewhat in the shade does in fact add to the realism. Keep up the great work.

johncpo

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, May 23, 2008 11:56 AM
Overall, a nice dio...One thing to keep in mind is historical accuracy...Mk III's were not in operation in Normandy at this time with the 12th SS...there may have been an odd one here and there with training units, etc...but in general a Mk III on the Western front is a no-no...Also, the figs appear to be in cold-weather garb when the Falaise pocket was during August...
  • Member since
    May 2008
Posted by mpkev31b on Friday, May 23, 2008 5:11 PM

the figures are dragon 12th SS HJ in normandy and there not in winter smocks, there in summer blured edge smocks, and one is in itialian foilage camo.

 

and yes there were a few Panzer III varients still in use for infantry support roles only in normandy. 

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, May 23, 2008 5:26 PM
Sorry about the uniforms but they are a little hard to make out in the pics...as far as the Mk III's in Normandy, I would like to know what your refs are...like I mentioned there were probably a few old hacks here and there but these were most likely in the 100 training abtltung or with the 21st PD...I have doubts that any were assigned to the 12th SS...in the event, Mk III's were obsolete by the summer of '43 and were certainly not front-line tanks...
  • Member since
    May 2008
Posted by mpkev31b on Saturday, May 24, 2008 3:29 AM

yes no doubt, but they were used as support rolls as "infantry support only" the mark IIIs were no match against late model allied armor.

 

 

get a copy of From normandy to the Ruhr: with the 116th Panzer Division. By hienze gudieren. up armor Panzer III F's, G's, And H's with the 50mm L/42 gun were used. not many but they were thier. and alot were converted to ammo carriers and divisional Communication vehicles in the rear.

  • Member since
    May 2004
  • From: Portugal
Posted by madspaniard on Friday, May 30, 2008 2:24 PM

Great job, but the tree with no foliage look a little artificial.

Pedro

Fw 190 A-3 Richtofen JG
  • Member since
    April 2008
Posted by xerxes on Thursday, June 5, 2008 12:04 AM

one important area,any advise how to construct  mud, or pot hole water.

 

  • Member since
    May 2008
Posted by mpkev31b on Friday, June 6, 2008 1:19 PM
well i used an air drying clay as my ground base made some track patterens in the ground let it dry, then painted it a muddy chocolate brown. to add water effects visit your local hobby store they have some clear liqued cement type stuff then you pour into a space, mold it around and let it dry and it looks like clear water. or mix it up and you can make it look like muddy slop.
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