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A couple questions with resin water?

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  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: The Green "Mountains", Vermont
A couple questions with resin water?
Posted by IanIsBored2000 on Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:55 AM

Stopped in at my hardware store to get some fiberglass/epoxy resin, but the guy there said that all of their epoxy/fiberglass resins had a heavy yellow/brown tint.  So he pointed me towards some stuff called Envirotex (For giving countertops a thick clear top coat) that is completely clear.  The box says to pour no more than 1/8" at a time, and that it needs about a day and a half to cure in prime conditions.  I did a test pour last night, and it's already hardened so much that short of gouging it with my fingernails, it can hold up to the touch.  I'm guessing that the instructions are for obtaining a near perfect look on a counter, but if I were to go ahead and pour about a half an inch at a time (need to build up to roughly 1-1/2, would it really mess up my results?

Question Two:

Since the water goes off the edge of the dio, obviously I need a temporary wall to hold it in until dry.  My dad, however had a different idea.  He though that maybe I could make some clear plexiglass walls the height the water needs to be, seal the seams with clear caulking and then pour my water and leave the plexi walls permanently.  If I used temporary walls, I don't know how I would keep the resin from sticking them on permanently, so that looked like my best option.  I went ahead and bought the plexi and clear caulk.  Does anyone see any flaws with this plan?

Final Question: 

And finally, does anyone know what this envirotex stuff is made of?  I want to color my bottom layers slightly to give it a depth look, for example make each layer as you go down be slightly darker brown, to show dark pond water/silt at the bottom.  I'm not sure what to color it with though. I've got acrylic paints, artists' oils, water colors, food coloring dye, maybe I'll do some tests.  If anyone has experience with resins and knows what's best to tint them with, I'd love to hear it, to save me some time and resin.

"Scanlon: work your knobby hands on the table in front of you, constructing a make-beleive bomb to blow up a make-beleive world."
  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Wednesday, July 16, 2008 11:27 AM
 IanIsBored2000 wrote:

Stopped in at my hardware store to get some fiberglass/epoxy resin, but the guy there said that all of their epoxy/fiberglass resins had a heavy yellow/brown tint.  So he pointed me towards some stuff called Envirotex (For giving countertops a thick clear top coat) that is completely clear.  The box says to pour no more than 1/8" at a time, and that it needs about a day and a half to cure in prime conditions.  I did a test pour last night, and it's already hardened so much that short of gouging it with my fingernails, it can hold up to the touch.  I'm guessing that the instructions are for obtaining a near perfect look on a counter, but if I were to go ahead and pour about a half an inch at a time (need to build up to roughly 1-1/2, would it really mess up my results?

Question Two:

Since the water goes off the edge of the dio, obviously I need a temporary wall to hold it in until dry.  My dad, however had a different idea.  He though that maybe I could make some clear plexiglass walls the height the water needs to be, seal the seams with clear caulking and then pour my water and leave the plexi walls permanently.  If I used temporary walls, I don't know how I would keep the resin from sticking them on permanently, so that looked like my best option.  I went ahead and bought the plexi and clear caulk.  Does anyone see any flaws with this plan?

Final Question: 

And finally, does anyone know what this envirotex stuff is made of?  I want to color my bottom layers slightly to give it a depth look, for example make each layer as you go down be slightly darker brown, to show dark pond water/silt at the bottom.  I'm not sure what to color it with though. I've got acrylic paints, artists' oils, water colors, food coloring dye, maybe I'll do some tests.  If anyone has experience with resins and knows what's best to tint them with, I'd love to hear it, to save me some time and resin.

 

Hi, Ian,

I can't answer your question about which medium to use to tint your resin, since I've never used it.  But I'm posting to thank you for bringing up this product, I've never heard of it, but I'm going to get some of it and try it out, too.

It does sound like your idea in Question 2 should work, too.

Thanks!

Brad

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: The Green "Mountains", Vermont
Posted by IanIsBored2000 on Wednesday, July 16, 2008 11:43 AM
It seems great so far, it's actually TOO clear, that's why I've got to tint it, but that gives you some flexibilty with color so it isn't really a con.  I got a quart of the stuff for $25, (half quart of resin, half quart of hardener) which is around what the epoxy resin cost, they ranged from $12 a quart to $33.
"Scanlon: work your knobby hands on the table in front of you, constructing a make-beleive bomb to blow up a make-beleive world."
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Wednesday, July 16, 2008 5:36 PM
 IanIsBored2000 wrote:

 I'm guessing that the instructions are for obtaining a near perfect look on a counter, but if I were to go ahead and pour about a half an inch at a time (need to build up to roughly 1-1/2, would it really mess up my results?.

Yes,   do this with great caution.   The product generates heat as it sets.   Pouring it in greater thicknesses than recommended WILL create heat which WILL warp most hobby plastics.   

Been there - done that.

 IanIsBored2000 wrote:
And finally, does anyone know what this envirotex stuff is made of? 

See the MSDS at the Envirotex site.  Also information about additives

http://www.eti-usa.com/MSDS/MSDS%20Index.htm

Google is your friend

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: The Green "Mountains", Vermont
Posted by IanIsBored2000 on Wednesday, July 16, 2008 6:39 PM
Thanks.  I did some testing, and acrylics (Games Workshops' Acrylics, atleast) seem to mix with the Envirotex just fine.  In TINY amounts (far less than a drop of each) a combination of yellow brown and green make a nice murky silt clear brown color for the bottom layers of the water.
"Scanlon: work your knobby hands on the table in front of you, constructing a make-beleive bomb to blow up a make-beleive world."
  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Wednesday, July 16, 2008 7:59 PM

I poured it too thick, trying to do it fast, and it didn't warp my Kingfisher.  It actually generated so much heat that the model caught FIRE...

Go thin...

 

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: The Green "Mountains", Vermont
Posted by IanIsBored2000 on Wednesday, July 16, 2008 9:24 PM
 Hans von Hammer wrote:

I poured it too thick, trying to do it fast, and it didn't warp my Kingfisher.  It actually generated so much heat that the model caught FIRE...

Go thin...

That's impressive.  Thanks for the warnings, I was about to ruin my $65 resin boat.

"Scanlon: work your knobby hands on the table in front of you, constructing a make-beleive bomb to blow up a make-beleive world."
  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Friday, July 18, 2008 6:30 AM

Models catching fire ... hazardous chemicals that will rot our brains in even small amounts ... I'm sure there has probably been at least one case of spontaneous combustion, but ... anything for the hobby!

And - I have never used this stuff, but it says it doesn't generate heat as it cures, and can be tinted: http://www.unrealdetails.com/ . Seems a bit pricey, though.

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