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Airbrushing my first P-38 J

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  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, December 2, 2003 9:11 PM
I use Floquil model RR colors. They come in a variety of slivers (old silver; bright silver--although I can't really tell the difference). Strain them through an old nylon stocking; thin them with a mixture of Dio-sol and Glaze (both Floquil products). The results can be surprisingly smooth and the finish is durable. Doesn't rub off easily when you handle the finished plane. You can mask over it with cheap 3M masking tape for Wal-mart, and then spray certain panels slightly different shades. I've built several natural metal B-17's this way. Oh, and what everybody says about a smooth flawless surface on the kit is absolutely true. You have to sand, and then polish, polish, polish. I use regular (not gel) tooth paste. Chrest has a nice minty aroma, but a product called "Glister" seems to be even better.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Lafayette, LA
Posted by Melgyver on Tuesday, December 2, 2003 8:57 PM
t-bone,

Great tips for MM metalizer. I had finshed a T-6, P-51, and P-80 with it and had great results. I used the sealer and you can get slightly different results from using light and heavier coats. The wet newspaper and Post it notes work great for masking panels as you said. Also had to recoat when I buffed through the metalized first time around.

Clear Left!

Mel

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, December 2, 2003 8:29 PM
Here is my 2-cents...
As mikec said, the surface must be flawless before spraying the MM metalizer. It is used as is, straight from the bottle, and I find it sprays very nicely. I also think the metalizers have a much stronger solvent smell, so I usually will spray them either in a booth or on a day when the windows can be opened and the room well ventilated.
The buffing metalizers can be buffer to enhance/alter the surface, but you must be careful not too polish too aggressively since you can scratch/buff through the finish.
On a P-51 or P-38 with metal finish, the Aluminum plate metalizer is a very good option for the predominant color. After the metalizer is dry I will usually coat it with Future to protect the metalizer. You can also use the metalizer sealer, but, again, I don't like that particular solvent smell.

Sometimes, I will use wet newspaper (after the initial metalizer coat has dried Tongue [:P]) to mask off several random panel and then spray a slightly darker or lighter tinted metalizer to create the illusion of variation in the panels color. You can also accomplish this effect by masking off individual panels and then buff the metalizer to create a slightly different sheen on the panel ( again, be careful not to buff too hard as to go through the metalizer).
I have also used "Silly Putty" to mask after applying the metalizer and had no problems. But to be safe, seal the metalizer first with Future or the MM sealer and let is dry thoroughly (a day or so) and then use low tack tape, wet newspaper, Post-it notes, etc. to mask.
Well, maybe 3-cents...
  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by Jamesr on Tuesday, December 2, 2003 7:17 PM
This is something I would like to hear about to. I'm getting ready to paint an F-51 mustang. I picked up a jar of model master Aluminum Plate Metalizer. The jar is labeled "airbrush only" and it looks like its already been thinned.

Some questions that I have:

Is the Aluminum Plate the right "color" for this plane? There are a number of shades available.

When it says to buff, does that mean literally getting a lint free cloth and buffing the paint?

This is going to be interesting. I may get to it as soon as the weekend. I'll post my experiences.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, December 2, 2003 4:53 PM
I have used the modelmaster metalizers. I was kind of flying blind so I made a number of mistakes. I wouldn't exactly call it a failure because I learned what not to do. First and foremost the model surface must be flawless. The metalizer will enhance any defect, dustspot, or scratch on the model finish. Polish the plastic until it is perfectly smooth. Airbrush the metalizer over bare plastic. I used a gloss undercoat and that worked ok but I think bare smooth plastic would be best. Paint everything that won't be covered by metalizer first. You can't mask over the metalizer because it will lift off and leave blotchy marks on your model. Other that just spray and buff and you'll get a nice realistic metal surface. There is sealer out there for the modelmaster metalizer. I haven't used it but I think it would be worthwhile as the metalizer is pretty delicate.

That's the resulting info I gathered on my one and only experience with metalizers. Hope it helps you some.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, December 2, 2003 12:36 PM
So your going for a metallic finish? I have yet to do a metalized aircraft...its on my list to try though...I've heard good things about ALCLAD....Perhaps someone else can recommend something from your list above...Sorry I couldnt be more help. I would like to see it when its done though....sounds interesting!
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: El Dorado Hills, CA
Airbrushing my first P-38 J
Posted by IBuild148 on Tuesday, December 2, 2003 12:28 PM
I want to airbrush my first P-38J but I am not sure as to the color to use. I prefer Model Master. Do I use:

MM Silver
MM Chrome Silver
or
MM Metalizer Laquer Aluminum
MM Metalizer Laquer Steel
or
????
I appreciate any postive feedback.

Thanks

IBuildOne48

Teach modeling to youth!

Scalefinishes.com

http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww122/randysmodels/NMF%20Group%20build%20II/Group%20Badge/NMFIIGBbadgesmall.jpg

 

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