best way to hide decals

Right you are, Plum,

I'd done some experiments in the past with this technique because I had a decal revolt of sorts, and discovered if the water/glue residue isn't cleaned from the applied decal, a reaction occurs ON the decal, when either Gloss or Dull Coat is applied. Oil from fingerprints will sometimes cause a reaction as well, the bottom line, insure the surface is clean and dust free before applying the final coatings.

Frank
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occasionally the decals react differently to the dull coat than the surface does. To avoid this I and others on this forum seal the decals with an additional gloss coat before applying the dull coat. This ensures that the final finish will be consistent.

wow.. thanks to everyone for the advice....this will surley help! ;)

Hi Prince,

I use to experience the same frustrations when attempting to make a model plane look realistic. Shiny decals on a dull finish look terrible!

There's different techniques at solving this problem, but here's what works for me; First of all, go ahead and work the model all the way up to the point of decals. (less antenna's/antenna wires, landing lights, landing gear, pitot tube, etc. etc.)

(1) Mask off any transparent section (or leave the canopy off until after applying the final finish) (tuck sections of tissue in the cockpit, or mask the open space, to protect your interior)

(2) Apply a coat of Testors Gloss Coat to the entire model. (the Gloss Coat is readily available, but you must remember to ONLY use enamel paint on the model, as gloss coat reacts to water based paint, and to control the amount you spray so there are no runs) Allow at least 48 hours to dry in a lint free environment. (under an upside down box)

(3) Apply the decals to the glossy Slick surface and wipe away any water residue, then allow to dry completely. (the decals will adhere to the slick surface MUCH better than with a dull finish) (if necessary, use "Decal Setting Solution, or in an extreme case, Decal Solvent Solution, so the decals will form to whatever texture/panel lines, doorways, window trim, etc etc)

(4) Now do the Weathering (if applicable)

(5) After the model has cured good (I give it a week), spray a couple of good coats of Testors Dull Coat (allowing 24 hours drying time between each coat, and rub out any imperfections with #0000 steel wool).

When everything's dry, peel away the masking from the transparencies and continue finishing out the final assemblies. Remember, few aircraft that had any time at all in combat, still had the uniform dull (flat) finish overall, so rubbing it with a soft clothe (before the antennas) will give it more of a "Metallic" look.

The decals will now look as if they are PART of the finish, instead of stuck ON the finish.

Good luck to your Brother, and tell him it would be a good idea to experiment with the technique on an old model, or model part before diving into the good kit. Another helpful hint.... NEVER spray either Gloss or Dullcoat on an object that's painted Silver, as sometimes the silver will "Melt" into the finish. Bare Metal Foil is a beautiful substitute.

Thumbs up!
Frank

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I always do a flat overcoat. for the canopys and engines or any part painted with a metalizer i always mask it off with foil(baremetal foil). landing gear and other protruding parts can be masked with tissue and masking tape.

Why won't flat coats work? First, decals should only be applied to a gloss surface. They won't adhere well on a flat finish and the probability of air getting trapped under the decal causing the dreaded "silvering" is high. Top coat the model in a gloss medium such as Future before you decal. When dry, after a day or two, top coat again with flat and no more shining from the decals.

Rick