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Leningrad white?

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  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Posted by Jeeves on Wednesday, December 24, 2003 9:54 AM
OK....here's a rough photo of it:

Mike
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Posted by Jeeves on Monday, December 22, 2003 11:22 AM
Here is a link to some of the art in one of the best Eastern Front aviation books out there:

http://www.bergstrombooks.elknet.pl/bc-rs/profiles.htm

If I had a scanner, I'd scan in a bigger shot of the winter schemes used by the VVS and Luftwaffe... but what gregers posted is basically it-- I restricted my wear of the winter skin to places of high traffic, like panels, wing walks, etc-- but that's a good pic to give a general idea. I'll try taking a digital pic of my IL-2 at home to give you more of an idea...

Mike
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: UK
Posted by gregers on Monday, December 22, 2003 10:38 AM
i posted this pic on a thread here some time back and got good feedback on it. i painted the standard raf camo then the white then sanded it back with 1500 grit till the camo started to show through. Greg

if you use the search the forums tool and type in russian spitfire you should find the thread.
Why torture yourself when life will do it for you?
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by nsclcctl on Monday, December 22, 2003 9:33 AM
I assume. What do people think? How did you do that?
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: UK
Posted by gregers on Monday, December 22, 2003 9:28 AM
are you after something like this..... http://www.scalehobby.com/forum/viewthread.php?action=attachment&tid=1321&pid=9168

this spit wasn't quite finished when i took the photo but it shows what i was aiming at.
Greg
Why torture yourself when life will do it for you?
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Bicester, England
Posted by KJ200 on Monday, December 22, 2003 9:08 AM
Effectivly you are taking an aircraft in standard factory colours, including markings, and applying a rough coat of white, trying to avoid those makings which need to be seen, Balkan Kreuz identification letters etc.

The density of coverage varied from aircraft to aircraft, as these were local paint jobs and reflected the weather conditions prevalent at the time. Therefore sping schemes may have splodges of white, with the bulk of the original scheme remaining visible.

I always think you have a fair degree of latitude with snoe schemes, due to the rushed nature of these paint jobs, and their propensity to wear/wash off in the harsh winter conditions.

Hope this helps.

Karl.

Currently on the bench: AZ Models 1/72 Mig 17PF

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by nsclcctl on Monday, December 22, 2003 8:04 AM
OK, let me see if I got this right.
Paint the splinter pattern on top, bottom is yello wing tips and light blue. Mask the bottom and apply all of the splinter, apply the future to seal it, apply the decals.
Mask the decals and spray a light coat, maybe 50:50 enamel flat white and thinner. You want to see through it, is that the case or do you want to fully try and cover and then remove some of the white to see the wear and tear? My guess is you are telling me to apply the white very thinly so you can essentially see the dark patterns underneath.

I feel like I am causing a stir here but I want it to look good. I think this could be so cool if done right.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Posted by Jeeves on Monday, December 22, 2003 7:18 AM
Whitewash over the spring/summer splinter camo stinger....it was a field job so again-- even as meticulous as the Luftwaffe was, on the Eastern front, these paint jobs weren't neat.
Mike
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Everywhere
Posted by stinger on Friday, December 19, 2003 7:50 PM
Jeeves - I was referring to Luftwaffe aircraft. Did they paint their winter scheme from the start as a winter camo, or were theirs modified over a splinter scheme.?

Yhanks

stinger

May an Angel be your wingman, and the Sun be always at your six

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Posted by Jeeves on Friday, December 19, 2003 7:45 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by stinger

I never knew that the Russian front aircraft were repainted over a splinter scheme.


No...they weren't. Sorry if I implied that-- the Soviet aircraft has camo much like the RAF with soft edges-- but the brown and green were whitewashed over in the winter months.
Mike
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 18, 2003 9:48 PM
Go for a splinter camouflage first. The white was applied in the field with whatever was to hand, usually brushes, sometimes brooms!
So, it's splinter, decals, seal with varnish or whatever you usually use. Then a not too heavy coat of white, avoiding the national markings, staffel markings etc.
White is white, RLM or otherwise. You're going to be rubbing some off, dirtying it up anyway. I'd use a thinned down white of enamel, don't forget, it's supposed to represent a water based paint, snow & ice is composed of....? altogther now.... So it will get to look tatty. You should have seen the state of the Harriers/Puma's etc after a couple of weeks, & they were only pretending to be at war. it depends how war weary you want it to look really.
Pete
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Everywhere
Posted by stinger on Thursday, December 18, 2003 6:32 PM
I never knew that the Russian front aircraft were repainted over a splinter scheme.
I have a second Dornier Do17z going on right now and my Profile Publication shows the Russian front pattern with RLM76 lichtblau (light blue) with yellow wingtip underside, and a white with green splotchy on the topside. This thread has been helpful to me as I never knew what RLM green to use. Now I know. If the original pattern was splinter I think it should be RLM 70 and 71, which was used in '41, although the colors may have changed by '42.

nsclcctl - Pixilater gave me a good tip for painting the white topside pattern. Check this thread www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11122 and scroll down a ways to read his reply. I haven't tried it yet, but when I do, I'll try it out first on a scrap wing or piece of styrene first, and that is also my suggestion to you.
I have spent way too much time on my model to take a chance with a technique I have never used.
When I do paint it I'll use Floquil's Reefer White (for trains) because it has excellent coverage over darker colors. So then, I guess I have a question. Does anyone know if there is a big difference between this Reefer White and the RLM21 white?

Hope this helps, and let us know what you decide and how it turns out.

stinger

May an Angel be your wingman, and the Sun be always at your six

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by nsclcctl on Thursday, December 18, 2003 5:46 PM
anybody else got anything? I really want this to look good and am deathly afraid of the white wash. I need details on how to do it. If you were doing this, how would you proceed?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 18, 2003 11:17 AM
The finish on the Stuka would have been sprayed rather than hand painted like the russian aircraft, but like Mike said - lots of wear and more than likely with splinter camo starting to show through towards the spring as the whitewash wore away.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Posted by Jeeves on Thursday, December 18, 2003 11:10 AM
The best thing to do (at least to be realistic) would be to paint the splinter pattern as it would have been in the warmer months....then use a white wash sort of mixture and slop it on over the original camo pattern.....do it very sloppily as that's how it would've been done in the field. I would then, on areas where there would be lots of wear (like wing walks, access panels, etc) scrub off the white to show the other camo pattern underneath.

That's what I did with my IL-2 I did a while back.... I used white hobby poster paint-- painted it on and before it was totally dry wiped it off of the heavily used areas-- it leaves a trace of white behind in the penel lines, but you see the brown/green underneath.
Mike
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by nsclcctl on Thursday, December 18, 2003 9:35 AM
I guess my point is, how do I model this? Should I just go ahead and paint it flat white or try to make it look like a white wash over the primary scheme? See what I mean? If I do a white wash, how would you do that?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 18, 2003 8:51 AM
I believe it was the same for the early desert stukas,
They would have appeared in the regular splinter camo and painted desert scheme over it.
I imagine the winter scheme was the same as during spring/summer/autumn the splinter scheme would have been in effect.
When the Harrier GR3's used to go to Bardufoss,Norway in the 80's the green portion of the camo scheme was painted with ARTF white and then removed after their return in the wash bay.
The Tornado/Jaguar/Buccaneer used in Granby in 91 were also painted desert pink, so was a Tristar K1, all with removable paint.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA
Leningrad white?
Posted by nsclcctl on Thursday, December 18, 2003 8:33 AM
I primed my Hasegawa 1:48 Stuka last night with german silver. It looks great for some final weathering effects.

Now, there are three color schemes provided. The first 2 are the typical greens and camo pattern for german planes with the hellbleu underneath. That is easy since they also give you templates for the camo patterns. What caught my eye was what appears to be a flat white version, 3./ST.G.5. Leningrad, 1942. The underwings are Hellbleu with yellow tips. The cowling tip is a pattern of yellow and white. I assumed the top is flat white. However, this is what is says next to the pattern.

"White aqueous paint is daubed over the normal paint scheme for the actual aircraft". Historically, does that mean they brought the Stukas in from Russia painted in the euro scheme and they just sprayed white over it with little attention to detail? I assume camo for snow?

How would this be modeled if you were doing it? Do I paint the euro patterns and then lightly spray flat white? Has anyone done this?
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