vaw1975
Hey everyone,
I like models to be accurate in scale and also to fit well (who doesn't?). Those of you with lots of experience, which brands of kits are best in these to departments? ( a) fit and b)accuracy in scale e.g. wing length, nose shape etc.)
Vivian
I'm gonna surprise everyone here that knows me and c kit choices..
No, just kidding...
Look... As several members have pointed out, all brands have their "dogs" (a term I hate to apply since EVERY kit is a dog in one place or another... Even if it's 100% "everything", then the price shoots it outta the saddle for me)
Another thing to consider is that every once in a while, you'll get a "Monday kit"... You'll spend 60.00 bucks on the top-shelf kit of a particular subject, get it home, openit to the expectation of just throwing the glue tube into it and a completed model pops out after you shake the box a few times..
BUT... In reality, it's got a bad decal sheet, missing parts, a sprue that's a "short-shot" (meaning not enough plastic went into the mold to form all the parts completely) , or the clear parts are all scratched and/ot crazed...
But anyway, it's a subjective question and there's no ONE answer... Generally speaking, I buy Monogram/Revell almost exclusively, but I HAVE bought from Tamiya, Hasegawa, Hobbyboss, Hobbycraft, Testor's, HAWK, etc, so I'm fairly well-rounded in other brands as well...
They (Monogram) are the BEST when it comes to the combination of quality, accuracy, and price of a particular subject, IMNSHO... Their B-17s (Promedeler, Revel re-release and original Monogram), B-29s, B-24s (D & J), He-111, A/B-26s, B-26s, B-25s (H&J), P-61, AC-47/C-47/DC-3s (screw Trumped-upeter), are above reproach (except for fit issues in some places, which is just part of the game, IMHO)... Even the kits from the 50s and early60s are quite accurate in overall shape and dimensions, you just gotta get past the lack of cockpits, engines, and those cockamamee "working" features and mummy pilots... There are also some scale issues with pilot figures, notably the P-51B, P-47D Razorback, TBF-1, and a few others...
One case in point I recently did publish here was a side-by-side build of Eduard's P-39 and Monogram's Airacobra. Both are grat kits, but the Monogram beat the Eduard kit in fit, engine and gunbays, cockpits (although the Monogram kit needed more scratchbuilt detail, the Eduard kit included P/E parts), and Eduard was superior in landing gear wells and interior well details. At less than half the price of the Eduard version, the Monogram 'Cobra was superior IMNSHO...
There was an 1/8th-inch gap between the left wing root and fuselage on the Eduard kit whereas the Monogram kit fit tighter 'n a tick without glue, and the canopy and doors were better as well, especially since Eduard chose to mold the doors in clear plastic, rather than doing the door in colored stryene and having to add the window (The reason I say this's better is that the window could be rolled down in the P-39, and Eduard's design precludes this option without cutting clear stryene, something I like to avoid at all costs because of its brittleness) Eduard also had both doors as poseable open or closed, something you rarely saw in a photo of a real '39, since the left door could only be opened from the inside.
Another thing is panel lines... A lot of guys think that because a kit has a plethora of recessed panel lines, it's the better, more accurate kit... Well, in some cases, it is... But more often than not, it's innacurate... The actual panels (especially on Pre-WW2 designs) overlapped and were not butt-jointed, and many time the lines themselves are a scale inch wide... Pretty "breezy" if scale it up to 1/1scale , no?
As I see it, the raised lines represent ( NOT duplicate) the overlapping panels better. With a bit of pastel dust, they can be "popped out" quite nicely...
All-in-all though, it comes down to what you want to build, what you want to spend, and how good you are overall as a modeler... Doesn't matter how "good" a kit is in the box if your modeling skills are sub-par or even just average... If you smudge paint, miss joints, leave fingerprints on the inside of a canopy, silver decals, or leave joint-steps, you're SOL no matter what kit you buy... You CAN, with time, love, and patience (and a well-stocked scrap box and some imagineering) turn any sow's ear of a kit into a proverbial Silk Purse... (Except for Aurora's P-61... THAT bird is a firecracker/BB-gun target..)
Bottom line is to try a few of the same subject from different manufacturers and you be the judge... I'd love to build a few more of Hobbycraft's P-51A/A-36/P-51B/C and grab another Monogram P-51B at the same time... I'd also like the Staff Car that comes with Tamya's P-51D, but put it with Monogram's D-Pony, or Hobbycraft's Bf 109F alongside Revell's (1970) Bf 109G, or...
Sorry about the long-winded post fellers, but my meds are kicking in and I'm feeling "Chatty" right now, lol...