Mig killer

Shrikes

Accurate Models at SM Southmall is selling Testor paints but has not updated its stock. I'm not sure if there are metalizer paints left . JMN used to sell these too (i bought some years ago) but....

If you'll be using Tamiya Aluminum, I suggest you use Gunze lacquer No. 8 Silver instead. It's available at any of Winston's store. And it leaves a very smooth and tough aluminum finish which you can immediately handle after airbrushing. You can even mask it (lessen the tack a bit) without damaging the paint.

But if you really want to use metalizer paints, Gunze buffable paints are also available at Winston's shops. It comes in aluminum, chrome, iron, brass and copper.

Good Luck!

Hey - No sweat Bones. I never took it that way.

I fully understand the root of your frustration!

I'm really in the same dilemma as the rest of you. Since I have only tried one method (and was very happy until the sealer went on), I am also searching for the "best" paint/technique.

Guess the best we can do is to experiment, and find our own individual "best".

Let's keep this discussion going, though. I'd like to hear and see the results from everyone.

stinger

Thanks Stinger. I apologize to you also if I may have offeneded you. None of my frustration was being directed to you.

My main mistake is the aircraft I'm using for my first NMF: a Trumpeter 1/32 Mig-19. Kind of a pricey kit to be doing my first NMF on. I giess I'm stubborn. Therefore, I'll be in a position this weekend to buy some Alclad and I'm going to buy that and test with it some.

Thanks again for your help, BTW.

nsclcctl

Here again is a pic of my own F-86.

I posted it in an answer to bonescoa last week.

It was airbrushed with Model Master's buffable aluminum. I only buffed a few small panels (the two small ones just above the wing root, and the small one above the "U" on the fuselage). The rest was kept just as it came off the A/B. I clear coated it with MM's Metalizer Sealer, which caused some dulling of the original brightness. It also lessened the difference in shine between the buffed and non- buffed areas.
I used no overall primer, just in the areas where I filled seams, and that was just to show me whether they were filled enough. Otherwise the metalizer went on right over bare plastic, which I cleaned with denatured alcohol just before spraying.

I'm not saying that this is the way to go, but I just wanted to show you the results of one type of paint and the method used.

As I told Bones, I think I will try a different paint next time. Probably Alclad, as I'm told that it needs no sealer, so what you first spray is what you get to keep.

Anyway, just thought this might help.

Here's the pic


(click the pic to enlarge)

Oh, and sorry nsclcctl. Didn't mean to change the subject of your topic or anything.

Sorry guys. I didn't mean to sound like I'm being ungrateful or anything. i guess all the stories I've heard is better than nothing and then paint a model and mess it up. I hope no one takes me the wrong way. I'm just a little frustrated.

I think I have pretty much decided to use the ALCLAD instead. I really don't want to ruin the model I'm doing now. The next NMF model is an OOP kit that I'll be building for my father. I really don't want to mess that one up! That being the case, I think I'll with the Alclad and use an old kit to experiment with the MM stuff.

Hello happy metalizers
Alclad suggests to use an acrylic gloss black coat as a primer for all their paints, except chrome whic primer must be enamel gloss black paint. Hope this will help

I tell ya, I'm hearing 100 different things about the MM metals. I even did my own small test and I THOUGHT it worked out well. I've read alot of stuff where people have said they've had no problems and others who have:

Don't primer before using it. It wasn't desinged for that.
You have to primer in order to get the surface smooth.
Primer with a gloss enamel only.
Primer with any kind you like.
Primer with a gloss laquer only.
Don't use the MM sealer because it degrades the finish.
Don't use Future because it degrades the finish.
Don't use Future becasue it's too glossy
I used Future in my test and it looked fine.
Use Future or MM sealer and you'll be able to mask over it.
You can use Future and/or sealer but don't masks or the tape will pull the sealer/Future and tape off.
Even with sealer the silver will still pull off (this is not true according to my test).
Don't prime. Paint your other colors, sand smooth, mask, then shoot the metal.

As you can tell, I don't know where to go. I really wanted to give it a try, but I think I'm just going to opt for using Alclad2.

Hey, nsclcctl! I'm about to shoot my F-86 with primer, and I was going to spray it with Tamiya Aluminum, but i may just see what the guys have to say...

Does anyone know if this MM Metalizer stuff is available in the philippines? Is there an equivalent available, or maybe i can use that tamiya buffing compond thinge... what do you guys think?

Scott,

Not sure if this is to what you refer but when I use SnJ metalizing powder I like to give the plane a slick coat of either gloss white or gloss black. Often I'll use a bit of each on various panels so when I apply the powder it takes on the various hues of the undercoat. When I use this technique all I can say is "Wow!" 'Nuff said. I think to myself "This stuff makes me look like I know what I'm doing!" LOL!

Like I said, I'm not sure if this will help but the technique works nicely when using the SnJ powder. I'm not exactly sure how it would fare with MM metalizer paints. It's a good question and I hope someone out there can shed some more insight on this.

Eric

Has anyone heard of using gloss black as an undercoat for natural metal? I seem to remember reading it somewhere. Supposedly it helped in some way. Hopefully, someone out there will have a better memory than me.
Scott

I've had good results with the Model Masters Metalizers on a T-6, P-51, and P-80. Buffed a few panels here and there and used the sealer. Looks better than silver paint any day.