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like some help

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  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA
like some help
Posted by nsclcctl on Sunday, January 25, 2004 11:18 AM
been confusing of late. I have posted but not gotten a reply I can use. I have searched and it is all over the place in terms of info. I am confused. I will post some questions about metallizer and please, someone who has done it and done it successfully, please answer.

I have the Academy F86.

I bought modelmaster aluminum buff or whatever it is called.

I have put the wiings and fuselage together and am ready to paint. I have a few gaps to fill.

I spray painted flat black on the interior walls as suggested on the board. It has gotten some flat black on the outer surface of the fuselage. Don't know if that gritty touch is a problem. I have never used metallizer before.

Do I prime with a gloss black or anything, or do I just wash the plastic and spray the aluminum on it? Will the grainy flat black, not much but some, be a problem?

How many coats? How do you buff, just a clean soft rag?

Is there any problems if I fill gaps and sand?

After it is done, coat with future before decals?

Then I purchased an overcoat for metallizers, I assume that is what you use.

I hope someone can answer these and there is concensus. I really want to finish this one.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Boise ID
Posted by chasblake99 on Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:21 PM
Metalizer paints require as smooth a finish as possible so I do not recommend priming and that you finish all filling and sanding prior to painting to get the best possible surface you can. Even minute scratches will show up with metalizers. Clean all the overspray black off too or you'll have grainy lumps under your metal finish. If you can, after sanding, use a plastic polish and go over the model to smooth everything.
You shouldn't need a future coat with the metalizer paint for decals but I'd use the sealer before putting them on. (I don't know which metalizer you are using so I don't know if the sealer will eat your decals)
How many coats depends on the paint, the color of the plastic, etc...the metalizer I used on a gray plastic only required two light coats.
Practice on a spare kit part first to see how you paint works and that way you won't mess up your F86
I hope this helps.
Charles  NKAWTG (My KC-135R at RAF Fairfird during Allied Force) Pilots without crew chiefs are nothing but pedestrians with nice sunglasses and a cool jacket. Crew Chiefs RULE!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:29 PM
Metalizers give great finish but have never laid it over black. I have read that your should paint the metalizer over a gloss finish. It is fast drying. I use 25-30lbs pressure with a wide spray nozzel, not narrow, so you get an even finish. Spray may need two coats. 1 minute between coats worked good but did a B-17 where I buffed and recoated again next day.
Do not touch the painted surface with your hands. I use clean cotton gloves.
To buff the finish just use a cotton make-up cleaning pad.
You can decal directly to the metalizer or decal after you use metaizer sealer.
Make sure that metalizer is the last paint that is going to be aplied were you need mask. Metalizer finish luster will come up with any masking. The only mask I have had luck with is wet copy paper but must be kept wet and not aloud to dry at all.
I think that with the black model I would paint buff and repaint and buff. You only need to let ModelMaster Metalizers dry for 10 min before you buff at room temp.
Remeber DO NOT TOUCH PAINT
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by Faris on Sunday, January 25, 2004 2:05 PM
Both of the previous letters are correct, and if could just stress this point again..clean off all overspray, fill and fine sand and then polish all seams and scratchs to a high luster. Use fine grit sheets or cloths or I love the polishing pads and sticks from beauty supply stores in the nail care section. You need an absolutely perfect surface to paint on with metalizer. Use gloves, cotton, latex, whatever as long as they are clean. Sorry if we sound a little paranoid, metallic finishes can be the biggest headache , but also really rewarding. Then you can seal your finish when you are done, before decaling
The only time you have too much fuel is when you are on fire.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by nsclcctl on Sunday, January 25, 2004 4:07 PM
finally, concise answers that appear to agree with each other. Sounds like it is a huge pain in the butt and I may be too far on this one. I think I will go with every day silver for this one. Anybody know F86s in other schemes? Just in case!
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: A Spartan in the Wolverine State
Posted by rjkplasticmod on Sunday, January 25, 2004 7:02 PM
Hey nsclcctl, I find your opening remark pretty offensive. This is at least the third thread you have started on this subject and you got a lot of good advise. Of course some of the answers will vary when you ask for opinions on metallizers, but a lot of folks took the time to respond and try to help. I dug through a stack of old FSM's to provide you a reference article. Did you look for it or read it?

Rick
RICK At My Age, I've Seen It All, Done It All, But I Don't Remember It All...
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 25, 2004 8:06 PM
You might also try Bare Metal Foil. I've seen it in Matte Aluminum and Bright Metal finish. Don't be afraid to try something new. I just tried foil for the first time. It takes patience and both are well worth thge time it takes to learn to use them.
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Lafayette, LA
Posted by Melgyver on Sunday, January 25, 2004 9:06 PM
Just "DO IT!" It's a learning experience. If your are afraid of messing up your expensive kit get a cheap one and practice! Opinions are like, well you know, everybody has one. I didn't have the luxury of FSM Forum the past 40 years and I turned out some pretty good kits. Get on with it!

Clear Left!

Mel

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