Revell P-51D 'Big Beautiful Doll' - 2nd Time Around - Update 14 April 2012

Had the same kit myself. The 1977 date is correct; MMI stands for "Monogram Models, Inc", while the Revell-Monogram LLC now holds the molds which are now located in China, hence the change in the new copyright stamp.

The "Big Beautiful Doll" script is supposed to be red, not white. I took a liner brush and brushed over the white script before applying it on the model. You could also check for aftermarket decal sheets, or email R-M for a new set if they have fixed the error since your kit was produced.

Glenn

Thanks Glenn.  I just sent an e-mail to Revell, now to wait and see.

Are you saying you dry-brushed the white decals to change them to red?

Paul

I took a very fine point brush and painted the script red. I wouldn't call it dry brushing, but there wasn't a lot of paint at the tip in order to keep the paint from running outside where I wanted it. I just kind of followed the script around as if I was writing it. It definitely had it's moments!

Glenn

Just got an e-mail from Revell customer service.  Said they are aware of the problem and the next production run will have the corrected decal sheet.  And they are sending me two sheets of the corrected decals.

Excellent customer service from Revell.

Paul

And the decals arrived in the mail today. 

Kudos to Revell customer service.

Paul

Wow, now if we could get CS like that from those who take our taxes.

padakr

And the decals arrived in the mail today. 

Kudos to Revell customer service.

Paul

Reasoned

Wow, now if we could get CS like that from those who take our taxes.

MMI stands for "Monogram Models, Inc...

You sure it ain't "Monogram Mafia Influenced"?

Hans von Hammer

MMI stands for "Monogram Models, Inc...

You sure it ain't "Monogram Mafia Influenced"?

LOL! I stand corrected....

Glenn

Finally finished my 2nd version of this kit:

For comparison, here are pictures of my first try, about 7 years ago:

All hand painted.  I put the drop tanks on the wrong sides. I didn't even bother to try to put on the checkerboard decal. Switched the wing and fuselage national insignias, and reversed the starboard identification marking.  Very large gaps all over.  But I was immensely pleased with myself, it was a lot of fun.  I was hooked again.

Next, the second time around.....

... I finished the second try a little over a week ago, just in time for MosquitoCon.

While not perfect, or really a contest contender, I was (again) very happy with the results.

Still had a few seems I didn't get right, especially at the wing roots.  The checkerboard decals were a challenge, but turned out better than I expected.  I cut open the gun panels:

I also filled the gap in the top of the fuselage where the kit allows you to pose the canopy open or closed by sliding a peg on the bottom of the canopy in the gap.  You can still see where it was in the top view picture.

First time using Model Master Metallizer in my air brush.  While not anywhere close to a very nice NMF, it looks a lot better than my original hand painted work, or even what I have done in the past with a spray can.

On display at MosquitoCon last weekend:

It didn't place, which was not a surprise to me at all.

Here are some side by side of the two:

Thanks for looking,

Paul

Nice looking Mustang Paul!

That's great you still had your earlier attempt - it's always good to be able to see how far one has progressed. 

Looks like you got the checkerboard decal down nicely!  Was it difficult?

Thanks for sharing.

Thanks CML.

That checkerboard was a major PITA. 5 separate decals.  The instructions call for making cut outs to get it to wrap around compound curve of the nose, which I did okay, but there were still lots of wrinkles.  Used Solvaset to get them to lay down, mostly, a few places didn't quite line up flat correctly.

Someone with a lot of patience could paint the whole thing white and then mask the checkers to paint the black ones. 

Paul

padakr

That checkerboard was a major PITA. 5 separate decals.  The instructions call for making cut outs to get it to wrap around compound curve of the nose, which I did okay, but there were still lots of wrinkles.  Used Solvaset to get them to lay down, mostly, a few places didn't quite line up flat correctly.

Paul

I've done that kit and would seconed your assessment of the checkerboard, it's a REAL PIA.  Your's looks excellent and Solvaset (which I didn't have at the time) is a must.  I like the job you did on the open gun box.  You know one thing I'd definitely recommend to anyone doing a Pony, is to replace the gun barrels with brass, that could always be done (although more difficultly) later.  Your NMF looks MUCH better this time (couldn't imagine trying it without rattlecan or AB).

Mustang looks great! I just finished that same kit a few weeks ago. Kind of the first one back since I had been out for a while, the decaling was a pain for sure but worth the effort. I made the mistake of applying decals without a gloss coat first so that was my downfall on the model.