drilling small holes

Hi Falco. I'm no expert, but this may be of help to you. How about using plastic rod? There are some companies that make sheets, tubing, etc. of styrene plastic. I'm sure you could find some that would be good enough for 1/48 gun barrels. It is usually sold in packages that offer several lengthy pieces for a very reasonable (cheap) price. Use an appropriate sized bit, and practice, practice, practice.

For 1/48 gun barrels, I use a new #11 Xacto blade. Under magnification, I push the blade in gently, then remove it. If its where I want it, I then re-insert it, and twirl it slowly, checking frequently for alignment & size. I use the same method for exhausts. Some oval ones require extra "shaving" on either side of the center hole.

Hope this helps.

Falco hi, and welcome!

i use pixilater's method alot...it works!! i have used micro-mini drill bits (down to 0.4mm) sometimes for 1/35 MG barrels but generally i get greater flexibility from the hand-held x-acto method.
i would suggest that if drill bits are breaking drilling into normal plastic, the bit you are using is too small and frail or the piece you are drilling is not being restrained properly.
regards,
nick

for small scale tubing try looking in the model railway ection of your LHS, they normaly have that sort of stuff in various sizes. i use it to make u/c legs in 1/72 for vacform kits.
Greg

A buddy of mine took small dowels about the size dia. of paint brushes and drilled one end with the drill bit then glued the drill bit into the dowel. He did that with his whole set of small bits and just used them to make small holes in gun barrels and hinges on his vehicles. They are easy to turn in your finges and adjust pressure. I did this with a couple small bits only used aluminum tubing instead.

Us ship modelers know your dilema all to well, try drilling out all the 40mm on an Iowa Class BB and you see what I mean. Personally, I clamp my gun barrels in a small vise, with plenty of padding to protect it from the vise marks, and use my dremel drill press to drill the holes. With the press there is no danger of the bit "walking" around on you, and it stays centered. Just make sure the barrel is siting straight in the vise. Has worked very well for me and I drill out about 40 to 50 guns per model unlike you "flyboys" and your 1 or 2. LOL

Don't forget about exhaust stacks, drain holes and vents! Not as many holes as "boat people" but still more than a couple! Any way I thought you made the Marines do all the hard work! Just kidding guys!

I use my lathe (turned by hand for plastic) because it keeps things restrained and centered. The Dremel drill press idea will do a good job of this as well. If you are breaking bits then either the part or the bit is wobbling off center.

If you don't have or cannot afford these tools then go with Pix's idea of using the #11 bit.
Good luck,
Bruce

Falco,
As you can see there a a lot of ways to drill out gun barrels. I have a set of drill bits that range from.039 #61 to .0135 #80. I believe Walthers is the company that distibutes it. They even come in a little bit box. I first square off the end of the barrel with a sanding stick or small file. This gives me a straight edge and prevents the bit from slipping. Next, using a magnifying glass, I make a small indentation in the center of the barrel with a small pin. This gives my bit a place to start. I spin the pin vise between my fingers and thumb to make the hole. Remember! You do not have to go to very deep. Check your alignment to see if it is where it should be. That's why I said do not go deep. If it is off, sand the end smooth and try again. Once the hole is done, slightly round off the edge, apply some flat black in the hole and paint the barrel. Hope this helps.
Ed

[img=right]http://www.ryanahern.net/Files/Pics/P1310031.jpg[/img=right]
Every now and then I find some great subtitute parts in the jewelry making depts. of Hobby Lobby or Michaels. There you can find these small aluminum or brass tubes. See pic. These are great for replacement stacks, vents, etc., but may require a little straightening to work well. Isn't that always the case. These are also good for making antennae as well since the fishing line (or 0.5mm bead/jewelry cord) tugs a little to hard for the plastic antennae provided by the manufacturers.