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Restoring wanted raised detail WAS:Rescribing order

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Savannah, GA USA
Restoring wanted raised detail WAS:Rescribing order
Posted by Bones-coa on Sunday, February 1, 2004 6:37 PM
Modelers, I have a 1/48 P-51 kit (not a very good one either) that I plan to use as another NMF test. I've decided that since it has raised panel lines, I may as well practice that too. With that, here is the order and way in which I intend to do this.

First, lay out each part and lay a piece of paper on them. Use a crayon, pencil etc to scrubb the paper to show the lines as reference for rescribing (I got this idea from another post on this forum). Then, go ahead and shave off my raised lines and rescribe BEFORE assembly. When done, construct the model and, before painting, touch up any scribing.

Does anyone see an issue in this order? Is there any reason why I should build the model before rescribing?

Thanks.
Dana F On the bench: Tamiya DO335B-2 with LOTS of Aires stuff (On Hold) Trumpeter A-10 with LOTS and LOTS of aftermarket goodies! (On Hold) Tamiya 240ZG (In work)
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Sunday, February 1, 2004 7:14 PM
You can also scribe the lines alongside the raised lines using the raised line as a guide for the scriber, and then sand the raised lines away. That is how I did it on my Monogram A-1H Skyraider kit.
I did this before assembly also as it is easier. If you have some lines that are incomplete after assembly then go ahead and touch up those before painting.

Mike

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Central USA
Posted by qmiester on Sunday, February 1, 2004 8:06 PM
I've been experimenting with a couple of items, one of which is scribing, using an old Airfix A-20 kit. I have tried scribing the parts using the lines as a guide on a completly unassembled kit and had problems, the biggest of which most lines don't correspond with the line on the other half of the part (fuselage half to fuselage half etc) and when you assemble them you've got problems.

With the A-20, I went to the subassembly stage, scribed my lines and then sanded the rivets off. Made a cradle out of foam rubber and so far has worked great.
Quincy
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Lower Alabama
Posted by saltydog on Sunday, February 1, 2004 11:26 PM
why not just read the outside of the box before purchase to make sure it says "finely engraved panel lines". that seams like a lot of work. i not good at rescribing as of now, and dont really enjoy practicing that much. just myMy 2 cents [2c]

im really not trying to be a smart guy ok. no offense intended.
Chris The Origins of Murphy's Law: "In the begginning there was nothing, and it exploded."!!! _________ chris
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Bicester, England
Posted by KJ200 on Monday, February 2, 2004 3:02 AM
I'm with Salty dog.

I've just spent a large chunk of what little free time I had this weekend rescribing panel lines on a Dragon 262, and that had recessed panels in the first place!!!!!!! Only with building skills I managed to obliterate half of them when filling gaps etc.

The thought of replacing raised ones...................!!!!!!!!!!!

Karl

Currently on the bench: AZ Models 1/72 Mig 17PF

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 2, 2004 4:58 AM
Hi Bones-coa,

Before I rescribe raised panel lines, I usually check if the raised ones are more or less accurate. Most Monogram models have very accurate panel lines

I do these by refering to good 3-view scale line drawings of the model. These drawing are available on model magazines or references. I usually blow up or reduce the scale drawings so that it will have the same scale as the model you are going to build.

If accurate, I go ahead and rescribe the panel lines using the raised lines as guide. For straight lines, I use Dymo self adhesive tapes as my 'ruler'. For access panels, circles, squares, rectangles, etc, I use Eduard photoetch templates (not sure if these are still available) as guide. If i commit an error, I apply super glue on the line, sand it off when dry and rescribe again. Smile [:)]

For rivets or panel screws, I use very small drill bits. Dont drill too deep though. [:0]

After all the scribing and drilling is complete, I sand off the raised details.

I resribe before assembly. Rescribing will require constant and hard handling that the assembled kit may be damaged. Qmiester gave a good suggestion by rescribing during sub assembly to avoid 'mismatched' lines at the joints.

Rescribing is tedious, but the results are worth it. So have patience! Cool [8D]
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Upper left side of the lower Penninsula of Mich
Posted by dkmacin on Monday, February 2, 2004 5:26 AM
KJ200,
Which Dragon 262 kit?
I just opened the Mistel and I do not need any more problem kits!

Don
I know it's only rock and roll, but I like it.
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Bicester, England
Posted by KJ200 on Monday, February 2, 2004 6:04 AM
dkmacin, it's the Italeri rebox of the standard dragon 262.

I had real problems with the fusalage halves not lining up properly.

It might just be me, as most people with experience of this kit site the wings and engines as the problem areas, but mine have gone together without too much trouble.

Karl

Currently on the bench: AZ Models 1/72 Mig 17PF

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Lafayette, LA
Posted by Melgyver on Monday, February 2, 2004 8:45 PM
I haven't tried rescribing panel lines on the older kits yet, but there was a lot of good advice which might entice me to try it soon. Thanks guys!

Clear Left!

Mel

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Savannah, GA USA
Posted by Bones-coa on Tuesday, February 3, 2004 7:56 PM
Thanks for the info guys. The rescribing is...well, coming along. It's actually not real good.

Actually my main concern is the raised detail I want to keep. There's alot of it. For example, the lower half of the wing has alot of rivets. I know there are ways to restore that, but there are various other raised details that are a bit more complicated than round rivets. Avoding them is making the removal of the old line very difficult.

Do you guys have any suggestions on how to either keep them or restore them later? Or do I need to be more specific on what I'm talking about?
Dana F On the bench: Tamiya DO335B-2 with LOTS of Aires stuff (On Hold) Trumpeter A-10 with LOTS and LOTS of aftermarket goodies! (On Hold) Tamiya 240ZG (In work)
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Mexico
Posted by mandrake on Tuesday, February 3, 2004 9:42 PM
Hey Dana how long do you think is gonna take you to finish rescribing your model?? i ask this because 4 months ago i got a 1/48 B-17F i sanded completely and was planning to rescribe it but i havent finished yet, every time i grab the plane and the scriber i screw it up, get mad, fix the problem and throw everything away... i promise i wont rescribe any other plane again!!

Regards and good look with yout project, let us see it as soon as it is done! Smile [:)]
Hector.
Thanks! My Best Regards Hector Reymundo
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Savannah, GA USA
Posted by Bones-coa on Wednesday, February 4, 2004 1:32 PM
I'm not sure. Actually, I may stop where I am. This model is really supposed to be a test for NMF. I have another model being held up now because of this one.

Mine has turned out kinda bad too but I'm not sure where to go from here.
Dana F On the bench: Tamiya DO335B-2 with LOTS of Aires stuff (On Hold) Trumpeter A-10 with LOTS and LOTS of aftermarket goodies! (On Hold) Tamiya 240ZG (In work)
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Brooklyn
Posted by wibhi2 on Wednesday, February 4, 2004 3:30 PM
Bones-coa, could you put a small piece of masking tape over the raised detail area to protect it while sanding?.
3d modelling is an option a true mental excercise in frusrtation
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by 72cuda on Wednesday, February 4, 2004 4:48 PM
Hey Dana;
I use the ole Embossing tape from the old gun type embosser, I found it to be thicker then most tapes and if you blow the scribe it wont cut through the tape (kinda safety barrier) and by the way Sorry for not getting back with you no the pix keep forgetting to take the ole camera to work for your pix you wanted,
andI also use Mike V's style on scribing by using the raise panel lines for my templet and then use the emossing tape to use as the straight edge, I also use a sewing machine needle chucked in a pin vise for the rounded and curved panel lines like for fuel tank caps or circled panels,

84 of 795 1/72 Aircraft Competed for Lackland's Airman Heritage Museum

Was a Hawg Jet Fixer, now I'm a FRED Fixer   

 'Cuda

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