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The Best glues for canopies

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  • Member since
    November 2005
The Best glues for canopies
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, February 4, 2004 7:56 AM
I have gone through many disaster canopies. Once when I used cement, it frosted up the canopy! White Glue seems to not lessen the clarity of the canopy, but it seems to have a long drying time, which I hate. In your opinion, what is the best thing to fix canopies in place on models? Thanks.Cool [8D]Clown [:o)]
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Posted by eagle334 on Wednesday, February 4, 2004 9:50 AM
I find jewelers watch crystal cement to work the best. Dries perfectly clear and seems stronger than white glue.

Here is their website, just type in crystal cement in the search.

http://www.micromark.com/
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 5, 2004 4:55 PM
Add another use to the list for Future. I tried it on a canopy as a temporary adhesive and had a bit of resistance getting the canopy off. So it dawned on me to use it as a canopy adhesive. Great! no side effects like clouding and good adherence.
I half-expect to oneday hear that Future has been found to cure cancer. Seems like it does everything else!!
Tony Ryan
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Thursday, February 5, 2004 4:59 PM
I prefer Testors Clear Parts cement.
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  • From: Colorado
Posted by LoneWolf1Seven on Thursday, February 5, 2004 5:04 PM
I use Testors clear coat, it hold great and you cant get much clearer.
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Posted by stram8777 on Thursday, February 5, 2004 6:39 PM
I also like testors clear part cement. Nevr had anything bad happen with it.
  • Member since
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  • From: NE Georgia
Posted by Keyworth on Thursday, February 5, 2004 10:04 PM
I use a dilute white glue, like Elmer's for most of my canopies, although I, too, have discovered that a judicious application of Future can work in a pinch.
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 5, 2004 10:21 PM
Theres stuff called Formula 560 I"The worldsbest Canopy Glue I purchased a2oz bottle for $3.59 from Hobby Town ,You can do a bunch of canopys for that
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Philippines
Posted by noel_carpio on Friday, February 6, 2004 12:22 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by tonyryan

Add another use to the list for Future. I tried it on a canopy as a temporary adhesive and had a bit of resistance getting the canopy off. So it dawned on me to use it as a canopy adhesive. Great! no side effects like clouding and good adherence.
I half-expect to oneday hear that Future has been found to cure cancer. Seems like it does everything else!!
Tony Ryan


Geeh, that's a cool idea! How long did it take to harden?

Noel
Noel Carpio Chapter Contact IPMS Manila IPMS USA # 42543 www.geocities.com/ipms_manila
  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Bay Area, CA
Posted by Reaper420 on Sunday, June 15, 2014 12:51 AM
Testors clear parts cement and window maker. Best thing you can use hands down. Dries quick, wont fog windows and you can even make windows with it such as aircraft windows on a 747.

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Posted by plasticjunkie on Sunday, June 15, 2014 8:22 AM

Future can be used to attach some canopies and clear parts. I have even used it to attach certain pe parts. Testors Clear Parts Cement is excellent. Provides a super strong bond and dries crystal clear.

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  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Sunday, June 15, 2014 11:13 AM

You have your choice- fog, strength, setting time.  No glule I know of is ideal in that it doesn't fog, but gives a really strong bond and dries or sets quickly.  All CAs can fog, depending on phase of moon.  White glues and such do not fog, but lack strength and take a long time to set.  Epoxy doesn't fog, does give a very strong bond, but even five minute stuff really needs to cure  for about twenty four hours (about same as white glues and derivatives) to maximum strength.  White glue is certainly easier to use than epoxy.  Strength is not essential for canopies- if it comes loose you can glue it back on.  But for windows that have to be applied from inside of fuselage before closing same, strength is essential.  If it pops in after fuselage join that is a disaster!  Some folks have suggested Loctite's GO@ for transparencies.  After having bonds made with it fail, I did some tests on it and couldn't get it to be a strong bond.  Went to the loctite web site for GO2 and it specifically says "not for styrene."  Bond strength seems to be about the same as white glue and similar.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
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  • From: Roanoke, Virginia
Posted by BigJim on Sunday, June 15, 2014 8:03 PM

There is "Gator's Grip Hobby Glue".

here is a review: modelshipwrights.kitmaker.net/modules.php

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Tuesday, June 17, 2014 1:47 PM

I use styrene cement, when I use a kit's canopy, or white glue.  I have never had a canopy frost on my, from styrene cement.  CA glue can trigger frosting, because of the vapor given off when it cures.  I've never used CA glue for attaching clear parts.

White glue has an advantage of filling gaps as necessary, too.

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  • Member since
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  • From: England
Posted by P mitch on Tuesday, June 17, 2014 2:15 PM

I'm with Annonymous here, I use Formula 560 and find I use it for more all the time.

Phil

"If anybody ever tells you anything about an aeroplane which is so bloody complicated you can't understand it, take it from me: it's all balls." R J Mitchell


  • Member since
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  • From: Milaca, Minnesota
Posted by falconmod on Thursday, June 19, 2014 7:49 AM

I've been using  Bob Smiths  "Super Gold+"  it's a foam safe orderless that specifically says no frosting on clear styrene.   And it doesn't.  I've been using it on internal windows.  I also use Micro scale's krystal clear for attaching external canopies and windscreens.

John  

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