Aaarghh! Stupid Frisket film [#oops]

I use 3m blue tape for large areas and autobody pinstriping tape for fine lines.and baremetal foil for window frames. JOHN

Hobby Lobby still has the 1:72 one, but I am building the 1:144 scale one - REAL tiny. But the detail is incredible. I posted some early pics elsewhere

http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=14543

and it is REAL accurate to the X-35. It is the B model by the way. Lots of nice stuff in this tiny little kit. I haven't seen it stateside yet. (It is Revell Germany)

Mike Dahlstrom

There are also lo-tack wide tapes available at body shops-just don't leave them on any longer than necessary-esp in temperature extremes.

stinger, thankyou for the info.


joe

Think I'll stick to decorator's masking tape for large areas, with Tamiya tape for the edges of masked areas.

Have never had any problems with either of these apart from a little paint bleed.

Oh, and the trick of remving decals with tape dous not work.!!!!

I tried to remove a Balkan Kreuze from my Ar555, and it would not budge.

Ended up having to sand it off.

Karl

Markuz - the easiest way to clean the edges is with another piece of tackier tape, such as duct tape. The fuzz will move to the surface with the stronger adhesion.
I've also used that tape to mask splinter schemes as soon as the paint was dry to the touch. Sometimes you have to reinforce it (wrapping the tape around the leading edge of the wing & adding another piece of tape to the bottom). It is a VERY low tack tape.
Hope this helps.

QUOTE: Originally posted by umiami91 Okay - building the little JSF kit from Revell

Hey Mike, what scale is that kit in? It's the X-35 right? I've been looking for that model in 1/72, but there aren't many out there. Is the Revell mod still in production, and if so, do you know where I can get one? Also, which variant is it?

Thanks

stinger

QUOTE: Originally posted by Pixilater I use drafting tape, made by Alvin.It comes on a 3/4" x 10 yard roll for $2. (picked up a bunch of them for $1 each !) They have never lifted anything, even a decal without an overcoat. Great stuff ! If you can find it, give it a try.

Cool! I have one of those in my drafting kit that I used for my Design Graphics class. Good thing I haven't used much of it. Does anybody know how to clean the fuzzy edges without slicing them off?

Hmmm... I'll have to scratch Frisket film off of my shopping list! Thanks for the heads-up guys!

ugh! the glad press and seal was my idea a month before the magazine came out. I would have sent it in, but when i masked my canopy, i ended up with the wrap tearing, bleading, and adhesive residue left on the canopy. It might, however, work on large areas.

I just bought a 12 sheet package of frisket film from Micheals for like 12 bucks. Haven't used it yet. I usually use blue 3M masking tape.

I use drafting tape, made by Alvin.It comes on a 3/4" x 10 yard roll for $2. (picked up a bunch of them for $1 each !) They have never lifted anything, even a decal without an overcoat. Great stuff ! If you can find it, give it a try.

QUOTE: Originally posted by fightnjoe "frisket" havent heard of this. please explain.

Fighntjoe
Frisket is a thin plastic (mylar?) film with an adhesive back. It comes in sheets (mine are 8-1/2 x 11 inches) with a paper backing. You can cut out whatever shape you need to mask off, peel the backing, and stick it on your model. Airbrush artists use it a lot. It is quite expensive (can't remember for sure, but I think my pack of five sheets was about ten bucks).

Danny - I didn't know that they came in different degrees of tackiness, but no matter, I'm with umiami. I won't use it again.

Just read in the newest FSM about using Glad brand "Press and Seal" food wrap. Has anyone here tried that?

stinger

"frisket" havent heard of this. please explain.

have to get out more so that i will know what this stuff is.

There are regular and low-tack types of frisket but they're real pains and not cheap!

The frisket film I have doesn't stick at all, so I gave up on that.

QUOTE: Originally posted by roosterfish That stupid tape came off easily and pull half my decal off too! And the decal was under two coats of Future Floor Wax.

This happened to me on an F-16, gotta watch out masking on decals. I wasn't happy...

Two days ago I needed just a little paint job around the engines of the model. I knew better but I thought that I hadn't used the masking tape in a long time and I thought it wasn't that sticky. It was just going to be a quick ten minute air brush job. Yes, I masked the area and very lightly mind you. I figured it was cool in the garage and the tape wouldn't stick very well to the model. I even did the dodge of rubbing the tape on my shirt to lessen the stick. After the beautiful paint job I slowly pull off the masking tape. Guess what? That stupid tape came off easily and pull half my decal off too! And the decal was under two coats of Future Floor Wax. But it was a great paint job. No one is going to notice how nice the paint went on with only a shredded half decal on. I knew better than to use masking tape. I swear that from now on I'm just using Parafilm masking!

I totally agree!

The frisket is way too agressive unless the previous finish is completely cured, which can take days for some paints. I had to do much repainting myself on a recent camo scheme because of that same frisket problem.
I've since gone to Post-It notes. They release easily, give a good crisp line, and I can do multiple colors in the same evening. Much cheaper than frisket, too. Their only drawback is that they tend to lift on the ends, but I've found ways to keep them down, at least until the paint is sprayed.
Tamiya tape is also good, but I have to let the previous coats dry at least a day before using them.

Good idea to put the warning out there.

PS - welcome to the forum!

stinger