Question on priming...

SubarooMike

Don Stauffer:  Do you decant the Krylon, or spray from the can?

I spray directly from the can.  Fortunately, the nozzle on Krylon cans is pretty good, so I can put on a thin or a  thick coat, depending on what I am doing.

i am using vallejo primer and i am quite happy with it

Thanks for the heads up Don.  I think I may see if I can't pick some up.  I'm a little concerned about it bringing out the seems on this model though.  Honestly, I was impressed at how far my seeming has come on my, only, fifth model since started back into the hobby.  That said, the Revell P-40, as you may or may not know, is from 1964 and the seems in places leave something to be desired.  I had to "float in" a few seems with modeling glue in a few places and use modeling putty in others.  I'm assuming Krylon will work just as well with acrylics as well?  Thanks again, Raymond

Don Stauffer:  Do you decant the Krylon, or spray from the can?

I use enamels, and always prime. I use Krylon primer. I learned about it years ago in the newsgroup rec.models.scale. I prime for two reasons.  First, it does help if there is any contamination of the surface.  Krylon primer is fairly hot, and can get through mild oils and such. It also makes for a more uniform coat- one can use a thinner color coat.  Secondly, for assemblies it can bring out how well the seams are filled, and highlight any scratches, pits or other flaws (as well as help fill them).

The testors stuff works.

Thanks guys!  I guess it's worth it in the long run to go ahead and wait for the primer.  I had planned on showing the Boyington birds with my collection at a Native American Artifact show this weekend... Instead I think I'll take his F4U that I built and my two Red Tails....  Look to see the finished product soon!!!!  Raymond

Hi Raymond, glad you're feeling better. I'll second for primer, in most any case it gives me better adhesion, plus primers will often reveal imperfections that need to be dealt with, via filling and or sanding. I'm not overly selective, as long as the primer does not have an adverse reaction to products sprayed over it. Good results from Tamiya, MM, Vallejo and others, even the buck a can primers from Wal Mart have served many projects well. For the most part I stick with brand specific, Tamiya-Tamiya, MM-MM. Sometimes one brand just doesn't like another.

Patrick

Is there any need for actual primer?

I've always just used an acrylic paint as a primer, normally a tamiya acrylic. I've never had any issues with it lifting, but find subsequent coats acrylic coats go down much nicer over a base coat.

I'll chime in here too.  And to repeat basically everything everyone else said Ray, the Tamiya ExtraFine or Fine Primer are definitely worth having.  A primer comes first (as it's namesake) mostly due because it allows the surface to receive the paint and it bonds with it better.  A paintjob without will certainly hold up just fine, but you may encounter problems along the way or it may just not stand the test of time as long. When I first began modeling scale aircraft, I went without a primer only because I didn't know any better.  I've been lucky so far...but as soon I'd come across more info about the how to's with priming my surface...I never looked back.  It is a definite improvement!!

Hold out if you can!!   =D  and buy two!! lol

All acrylics will benefit from primer...especially Tamiya primer.  Acrylics just don't bond very well to bare plastic...including Acrylic primers.  But they do seen to bond well to Tamiya primer.  

I never really have lifting issues when I use acrylics over Tamiya primer.

The other thing that helps acrylics bond to plastic better is to thin them with lacquer thiner.  This works especially well with Model Master Acryl paint.

Tamiya acrylics benefit from primer. I find their adherence to be unreliable, esp. flat black. But they should go down over enamel primer just fine. You can always test it. Just be sure to let your primer cure for a week.

Tamiya rattle can primer is a lacquer, just not a hot one.

I don't prime my parts, but I use Testors enamels. I would think most hobby acrylics would work as well.