Natural metal

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Natural metal

Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 29, 2004 3:19 PM

What special preperation do i need to paint a natural metal finish. I am using model master buffing metilizers from a spray can. Also how far away should I hold the can to recive the best results. Smile [:)]

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shrikes

Member since
November 2003
From: Manila, Philippines

Posted by shrikes on Sunday, February 29, 2004 8:18 PM

Can't help you here, because they don't sell that stuff here. Disapprove [V]

I'm using Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminium. They say you get better results if you undercoat with gloss black or something. What model are you building? Why not join the NMF Group build? Big Smile [:D]

Blackadder: This plan's as cunning as a fox that used to be Professor of cunning at Oxford University but has now moved on and is working with the U.N at the high commission of cunning planning

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jimz66

Member since
December 2002
From: Winsted CT

Posted by jimz66 on Sunday, February 29, 2004 8:37 PM

Make sure you have clean surface, sand away all scratches with various grits of sandpaper down to the finest you can buy. Then polish with a metal polish of some sort. then apply. Seal with future then decal seal again with future, weather then seal with a flat coat.

Why don't you think about joining the NMF Group Build. You can post images as long as there not a finished model between now and Halloween. On Halloween you can post finished images of your model.

Phantoms rule the skies!!!

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wibhi2

Member since
March 2003
From: Brooklyn

Posted by wibhi2 on Sunday, February 29, 2004 11:38 PM

If your spraying with a can, hold the can 6 to 12 inches away and spray 2 or 3 light coats.
Sand with finer grits between coats if necessary to get rid of the "orange peel" effect. Your last coat will be a wet coat (just a little bit more purpose in your hand movements).

3d modelling is an option a true mental excercise in frusrtation

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Monday, March 1, 2004 2:10 PM

Thanks for the help Big Smile [:D]

I think i got all the steps sand, polish, prime, apply several light coats, seal, apply decales, then seal again.

Thanks again for all your help

Nick

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72cuda

Member since
July 2003
From: USA

Posted by 72cuda on Tuesday, March 2, 2004 4:48 PM

Hey Fisch90;
here's how I do my NMF,
I first sand then polish (with Tooth Paste not GEL) and then I paint the areas that I filled with filler putty with gloss white ( this seals the filler and doesn't look like a gritty area), then apply the metal coat, then polish to the shene I want then seal with future or with the sealer for the product, I use SNJ instead of Metalizer but they are about the same except the Testors brand has some non-buffable colors

84 of 795 1/72 Aircraft Competed for Lackland's Airman Heritage Museum

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'Cuda

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wibhi2

Member since
March 2003
From: Brooklyn

Posted by wibhi2 on Tuesday, March 2, 2004 4:53 PM

Also the testors metallizers are much more fragile and have to be handled much more carefully than SnJ . Man I love SnJ

3d modelling is an option a true mental excercise in frusrtation

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fightnjoe

Member since
September 2011

Posted by fightnjoe on Tuesday, March 2, 2004 7:04 PM

ok ive pulled a blank. snj??????

joe

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 2, 2004 9:46 PM

Yeah what is SnJ?

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wibhi2

Member since
March 2003
From: Brooklyn

Posted by wibhi2 on Tuesday, March 2, 2004 11:03 PM

SnJ is a Aluminum based enamel. Very sturdy stuff when it comes to handeling and masking (never had it peel or lift). It also comes with a polishing powder -very finely ground aluminum.

It does have 2 draw backs, the polishing powder will get everywhere if your not careful and the paint is so thin, you'll easily go through a bottle in a very short amount of time with your A/B.

http://snjmodelproducts.com

3d modelling is an option a true mental excercise in frusrtation

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fightnjoe

Member since
September 2011

Posted by fightnjoe on Wednesday, March 3, 2004 9:23 AM

thanks wibhi2, drew a blank as to what snj was.

joe

Veterans,

Thank You For Your Sacrifices,

Never To Be Forgotten

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, March 3, 2004 9:33 AM

My favorite metallic is Alcad II. The paint is very durable. I first painted this airframe with Aluminum. Two days later, I masked different panels with drafting tape, and painted the Duraluminum & Dark Aluminum shades, all within an hour. No paint lifted anywhere. This paint is great stuff !

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fightnjoe

Member since
September 2011

Posted by fightnjoe on Wednesday, March 3, 2004 10:26 AM

pix i think you could take any model w/ any paint and make it look fantastic.

joe

Veterans,

Thank You For Your Sacrifices,

Never To Be Forgotten

Where you can find me:

Workbench on FaceBook Google Plus YouTube

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wibhi2

Member since
March 2003
From: Brooklyn

Posted by wibhi2 on Wednesday, March 3, 2004 10:32 AM

I would have to agree.

Never tried Alcad II - have heard excellant things about it tho.

3d modelling is an option a true mental excercise in frusrtation

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glweeks

Member since
September 2003
From: USA

Posted by glweeks on Wednesday, March 3, 2004 11:04 AM

The good thing about Snj and Alclad II is the "maskability", oh yeah. When you use the powder on Snj it WILL get every where, but you gotta do it in a area away from every thing else, blow on it, and wipe it off places you don't want it, but what a shine. You can even shine up the other brands with the powder. Shine 1/35 and larger machine guns too; all kinds of stuff. Buy both.
G.L.

Seimper Fi "65"

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rjkplasticmod

Member since
February 2003
From: A Spartan in the Wolverine State

Posted by rjkplasticmod on Wednesday, March 3, 2004 12:07 PM

For a rattle can spray, can't really help you, since Iv'e never used that approach. If you have an AB, you really can't do better than Alclad2. Only drawbacks are the priming requirements and the cost. At about $8.00 per bottle, I only use it sparingly. Other good alternatives are Floquil Old Silver and the non-buffing Aluminum from Model Master. Iv'e used SNJ in the past, but found it's shelf life to be limited and the powder to be a bit messy. You can get good results, but no better than Alclad2. Don't like the Model Master buffables as the finish is just not durable, even very low-tac masking will mar the surface, as will normal handling.

RICK

At My Age, I've Seen It All, Done It All, But I Don't Remember It All...

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, March 3, 2004 2:19 PM