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http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/13/t/153343.aspx
I'm not sure if I linked the above section properly. But, its a thread I found in the techniques section regarding using CA to attach canopies that have been coated in future.
On the Bench: Lots of unfinished projects!
Good idea. I think I will dig a couple out, I often use vac canopy's and have a few un used plastic ones. Might be worth having a couple of tests, I might do one with and one without the future.
I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so
On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3
Bish Ok jelliott, I was going to try and dig old and old canopy, but if you have something to hand, that's good. Keep us posted.
Ok jelliott, I was going to try and dig old and old canopy, but if you have something to hand, that's good. Keep us posted.
I'll be home in a few hours and I'll give it a shot. I'll take some photos of it as well and do it as a TIP (Test In Progress) Post and put it under the techniques tab.
Moose, I always use canopy glue when attaching just to be safe but on occasion I have used CA for a bit of extra strength if its not a good fit, along as its an open canopy.
Thanks for all the tips. I like using CA when attaching PE. Just new that fumes and clouding occurred. I like the fan idea and keeping it open. Good thing most of the PE will be on before I install the canopy onto my 110. I might then use the Testors canopy glue to attach the canopy to the aircraft.
Thanks again.
Moose
Just as a side note my work in progress is in the Reich Defenders V, hunters of the night.
I may have to give it a go on a scrap model I have at the house. I have an old O2SU-Kingfisher that I dipped the canopies in awhile ago (several months) and they've been sitting in a sealed box since then to dry. I'll see how the CA affects them.
No, and I have yet to dip a canopy. Chemistry ain't my strong point but I can't see how the future would prevent it. Might be something worth testing though.
I don't know if it would work for a closed up canopy, but I've used CA to attach fuselage window in B-17's and B-24's. Then I set the fuselage half in front of a fan and let the air blow across it. I figured if the moving air blows the fumes away, they can't settle on the window. So far it's worked, but this is done before the fuselage is closed up.
Bish I always using CA when attaching PE parts to a canopy. I have found fogging is only an issue when there is no where for the CA vapour to escape to, this is why they fog when using CA to attach a canopy.
I always using CA when attaching PE parts to a canopy. I have found fogging is only an issue when there is no where for the CA vapour to escape to, this is why they fog when using CA to attach a canopy.
Thanks Bish for that clarification! Have you heard anything about dipping the canopy in future to supposedly stop the fogging from occurring, sounds questionable to me.
Nathan T Dipping in future and using ca is a dangerous game. Especially when future used as a glue or clear pArts glue is plenty strong for this.
Dipping in future and using ca is a dangerous game. Especially when future used as a glue or clear pArts glue is plenty strong for this.
That is specifically one reason I haven't tried it yet. I had heard people on some of the forums claiming that the future created some kind of impervious chemical barrier to prevent fogging when using CA. Thanks for your input on this, I think I'll stick with the methods I have used all along.
I typically use the Testors clear parts cement. Its pretty close to thinned Elmers glue. It comes out a creamy white colored out of the bottle but dries clear.
Another method that I've heard about but haven't tried is to dip the canopy in Future (Pledge Multi-Floor) and this will prevent the fogging. Again, I have not tried this myself so I cant say for sure if it works. I've also hear that people will just use plain old white glue and thin it down a little and use that.
Hey Moose, use canopy glue, such as micro crystal clear or Gator grip. Both of these are safe for clear parts and dry clear. Strong enough too. Another alternative is Future. Apply it with a small micro brush. Good luck with the 110. I know it does have a few clear parts to deal with...
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