Yellow woes...

So far, I have found Tamiya XF-3 Acrylic Flat Yellow to be the best covering and spraying yellow I've ever used.

And I'm primarily a Vallejo guy.

My anyway.

Yup, white undercoat and Tamiya flat yellow.  Use a gloss clear if you need gloss.

Thanks guys, unfortunately XF-3 is one I'm still having issues with...I shall persevere.

Although I have actually found it seems to go on better over a matt back base...oh well.

Hannants Xtracrylics Trainer yellow spray well & is tough, but not bright yellow.

Yellow over a silver or aluminium base also works well.

I find in either acrylic OR enamel, yellow is about the hardest color to cover evenly.  Like most of you, I always use a white primer under yellow, even if I started with a gray, thick primer to cover seams and sink marks.

Its gotta be better than the Testors Acryl RLM 04;always comes out with a pronounced orange tint.

I began using the Mr Color yellow due to the same reasons you mentioned. The Mr Color paints tend to be less transparent than Tamiya paints. They are generally thicker. But you still need to prime white underneath.

BK

rangerj

Yellow over a silver or aluminium base also works well.

 

I second that suggestion. Try spraying in several light coats until you achieve the desired coverage to your liking.

I'll third the silver method.

AdeB

Thanks guys, unfortunately XF-3 is one I'm still having issues with...I shall persevere.

Although I have actually found it seems to go on better over a matt back base...oh well.

Can you describe the issues you're having? Reading the previous posts, I can see that we all thought of the same thing, and that the issue you're having is getting a good, solid, bright yellow.  That's the point of priming with white, it will make the overlaying yellow coat brighter (same goes for red, by the way).  A dark primer will impart a dark shade to the overlaying color.

But we're assuming that's the problem.  Since you mention Tamiya's XF-3 (which I also use), is it the color and how it looks when you're finished, or is the problem in applying it, it doesn't flow well through the airbrush for you, for example, or some other problem?

I have also used craft store acrylic (Americana), applied with an airbrush, and got a good color finish.  There was a technical issue, in that craft store paints generally have coarser pigments than paints formulated for scale modelers to use, so there was some clumping, and when the paint dried and cured, it had a rougher surface, which I knocked down by rubbing with a piece of an old T-shirt.