Gee, this sounds like one of my builds. 

Sorry you've had so much trouble.  Have you thought of printing your own decals (if you have a printer, that is).  On the other hand, if you could find a long, blue decal section you could just cut out some strips to place on the model.  Maybe someone has some blue striping they're not using.

Anyway, good luck!

Gary

Wow. That sucks. Here's a few pointers for old Hasegawa kits. Glue the wing tops to the fuselage first to avoid a gap. Then quickly bring up and glue on the lower wing half to set the proper dihedral. Then All you have to do is sand the wing tops to match up with each other. Also, don't use Model Master metalizer, or Model Master Acrylic, or Future. They are all crap and as you found out, don't belong on a model. Also, buy a set of Eduard masks for he canopy, and never ever use old Hasegawa decals! By old I mean anything older than 2000. 

Man...what a PITA!!!

Looks good though!

That side of the world seems to have a problem with decals...(Hasegawa, Tamiya, Academy...only slightly better are Trumpeter/HobbyBoss)...haven't met a single decal sheet that I like from any of them. I either substitute with other decals, whenever possible, or mask and paint, especially with Jap planes.

Metalizers...I've been using these exclusively, since I first found em 15-16 years ago. #1, they need to go down on a flawless surface, any nick, scratch, or flaw will be amplified. After sanding all the seams, I run a soft cloth buffing wheel (Dremel) over everything to make it shine....then paint. For masking...I'll only use Tamiya tape...but it still needs to be "de-tacked" a bit first. I'll stick the tape to my forehead first, then carefully place it on the model, softly, and just lightly run my finger along the tape, so it doesn't stick real hard.

Gloss/sealer...I used to buy the special sealer, but that got expensive! It's just gloss lacquer. I bought a quart of Minwax clear gloss, for the cost of two Metalizer Sealer bottles. I use this as my gloss for everything. I've done well over 100 builds since I bought that quart, and I've still got 2/3rds of it left (thin with lacquer thinner for airbrushing). The sealer should help a bit with the masking/peeling paint, but still de-tack the tape, especially when NMF is involved.

Thanks for the tips. Fermis do you spray the metalizer on the bare plastic. I saw someone using black primer underneath but testors is emphatic about no primer.  I think I'll try the metalizer, metalizer sealer and the flat acrylic sealer on some practice parts and see how the tape will work.  Don't think I'll have to worry about hasagawa decals again. This was the last hasagawa plane in my stash. Adding tamiya planes to my stash

I do spray on bare plastic.

In the past, when I just used rattle can metalizer, I'd mask off certain panels and spray a flat grey primer, just on those few panels. Just as that dried to the touch, I'd peel off the mask and spray the metalizer. The sheen over those prepainted panels would be different, which changed the tone of those panels. Now, with a decent airbrush, I spray various metalizers to get desired effects.

A word of warning...sometimes there's a huge issue with spraying different types of paint/clear (lacquer/enamel/acrylic)...some don't play well on top of others! I have never used acrylics, so can't speak about those not playing well. I do know, from experience, that my lacquer gloss will crinkle up the underlying enamel paint, if I spray it on too heavy...light coats have no issues though.

So do you decant the metalizers out of the rattle cans? What do use as a thinner for them?  I've tried spraying aztek pearl silver acrylic.  It has finer metal flakes than the model master acrylic silver but I have yet to find a good thinner for it.  It plugs up may airbrush something fierce.  It does brush on very well though 

Believe it or not I had the same kit go to @##@ on me!!!

As I commented to Bish on his Osprey I hate Hasegawa decals and avoid using them whenever possible. Still nice work on your results. I love the crazy camo, it's hard to do and you did a great job on it.

PS: Odd I was going to send you a message but I don't see the option tonight. I have an extra set of decals I can sent you if you still want them.

Greatmaker

So do you decant the metalizers out of the rattle cans? 

 

Negative.

I buy the little 1/2oz bottles. They say "for airbrush use only" on them...but I do use a standard brush from time to time with them...Only for fiddley bits though, not like I brush paint an entire build with em.

When the bottle gets a bit low, they start to thicken up a bit, so I'll thin them with lacquer thinner, whenever needed.

Greatmaker - sorry to hear about your trouble! But the model doesn't look bad, many modellers would love to get the results you have!

I'd like to suggest a save for the decals. How about you get a sheet of decal paper, and airbrush it blue. Then you cut stripes out of it with a metal ruler and a really sharp blade. Make a cutout for the carburator air intake and put the decals on, hand paint the intake with the same paint used for the decal and here you go - what do you say?

Good luck with your build and have a nice day

Paweł

Gamera it's comforting to know that it's not just me having problems with their decals. Pawel I do have decal paper but with my printer it just doesn't seem to get the color saturated as much. Plus I would have to cut it to match the side meatballs  Fermis good to know on the metalizer paints  I thought they only came in rattle cans.  Now I have to see if I can get ahold of some in my area  Thanks guys for all the replies  I'm starting the Tamiya He-162 today It looks like a really fun kit

Greatmaker - I didn't mean to print the colour, I meant to AIRBRUSH the colour on the sheet - this way the coverage should be OK. Then you cut the pattern from a single coloured sheet, taking care of the shape of the decal. I used this procedure myself, and it works - so good luck to you and have a nice day

Paweł

Wait... You airbrush the blue stripe on the decal sheet? Not sure if I understood your method.

Interesting idea. I bet you could mask the stripe before you paint.  If I had a a scan of the decal sheet I could print that on the decal sheet and then use an airbrush to deepen the color.  The printer color never is dense enough

Gentlemen, you're overthinking this! My idea is to airbush an area of solid color (whatever colour you have in your paint box!), and then to cut the shape you want - in this case a long tapered stripe, with a cutout for the roundel and the carburetor intake. Why mask it, whaen you don't have to? Have a nice day

Paweł

Greatmaker

...  Fermis good to know on the metalizer paints  I thought they only came in rattle cans.  Now I have to see if I can get ahold of some in my area   

Not a lot of shops carry them...unless you've got a pretty good shop nearby.

I had to order my last batch from Squadron. I keep on hand...

Polished Alum...Steel...stainless Steel...Magnesium...and Burnt Iron.

I prefer the non-buff type, but still give em a little buffing. The seem to hold up a bit better under tape than the buffing types do. Plus, ya don't end up with silver fingerprints in place you don't want em!

Man, sounds like you got some bad juju with Hasegawa kits.  The build still looks great though.

Thanks fermis. When I get a chance I'm going to call a big model shop in the twin cities to see if they have them..... What? You don't like having pretty silver fingers which make nice silver fingerprints all over.  Allan...mostly I've had trouble with Hasagawa decals. Most of the planes have been OK to build. For me I just have had the best luck with Tamiya. I guess when the parts fit better I feel more motivated to spend some extra time tidying things up.   I've done a lot more Revell than Tamiya in the 1:48 scale. My all time favorite was Tamiya's Sturmovik. The fit of that model was just incredible compared to what I've built in the past. I've also built models by Pegasus, Pro Modeler (both Monogram and Revell), Zvezda, Airfix, Accurate Minatures and DML. And while some of these models were not so nice to build I never had any trouble with their decals. To me it's kinda irritating to spend $30-40 for a model and then another $15-20 to get decent decals

Thankfully Ive mostly had no problems with Hasegawa decals.  Except for the fact that they turn yellow a lot faster than the other brands.  Takes years but still...

Greatmaker

Thanks fermis. When I get a chance I'm going to call a big model shop in the twin cities to see if they have them.....

Greatmaker,    I think I know what shop your talking about,  I used to work there part time.  they should have all the Met paints you would want.

John

I'm so sorry to hear of your misfortune, I'm so happy (Honestly) that your build came out very nice.  Especially the camoflauge, that sir is a difficult pattern.  The best of luck on your Tamiya build.

Toshi

Nathan T

Wow. That sucks. Here's a few pointers for old Hasegawa kits. Glue the wing tops to the fuselage first to avoid a gap. Then quickly bring up and glue on the lower wing half to set the proper dihedral. Then All you have to do is sand the wing tops to match up with each other. Also, don't use Model Master metalizer, or Model Master Acrylic, or Future. They are all crap and as you found out, don't belong on a model. Also, buy a set of Eduard masks for he canopy, and never ever use old Hasegawa decals! By old I mean anything older than 2000. 

 

HMMM.....Never had an issue with Future, I've used it (successfully) for 30 years. It is a great primer for Alclad metalizers. I mask canopies with Frisket film, again for three decades. As for the MOdel Master stuff....I agree for the most part. I have used it for detail on jet engines etc.

I never had any problems with "old" or new Hasegawa kits concerning decals. I guess I'm living in a bubble.

I guess the way I look at it .....any difficulties encountered within the build process is what makes it a "hobby". Overcoming less than perfect conditions is why I'm in it. To make a great model out of an older kit is fullfilling and enjoyable. Like the song says "I'd rather have ham in my sandwich than cheese, but, complaing doesn't do any good"....