Crazing Alclad II issues

By crazing do you mean like frosting from the flat coat? Can't see how an acrylic would attack and craze Alclad. Or do you mean Testors lacquer dull coat? 

How long did you wait  before puting on the final clearcoat over the thinned wash and spirit?

Maybe some solvents may have been trapped and that messed up your alclad?

I do my washed over all my models with artist's acrylic ink thinned with water and a drop of dish soap....wipedsoff easly and never had hassles with it.

Theuns

Don Eisenhart

I used Alcad black primer

I hate this stuff. I have lost two paint schemes to this primer. Something about the Alclad black is crap. The rest of thier stuff is fine, but not this. Everytime I have had problems it has been when using that primer. When I change only that in my mix of layers I don't have any issues.

BK

Agree with their so called gloss black coat not working, I use tamiya black enamel.

Crazing, like cracks in the finish. 

I use Testor's flat clear acrylic. 

Theuns, 

I sprayed the final coat wash, then the Future, then the clear coat in about 12 hours.  

Maybe this did not gas out properly. 

Okay, so I use Vallejo Surface primer, and Tamiya Gloss acrylic, then Alcad II airframe, does anyone feel that will improve the paint finish?  

And, should I spray Future between the Tamiya and Alcad II?

Thanks again, 

Don 

And, how to you insert a photo, from like Google Drive?

If you can use enamels I would sugest you do the gloss black in enamels rather than acrylic with future over that.

The enamel is already gloss and you can shoot the alclad straight over that thereby skipping the extra gloss clearcoat needed.

Theus

Don Eisenhart

And, should I spray Future

Stop using Future. It isn't made the same way anymore and it really just never hardens up like the old stuff used to. You can get all you need from the MM clears or someone elses clears. Future is only good on canopies anymore.

BK

I agree 100% with BrandonK regarding Future. Never use Future as a clear coat because it will micro-crack. I used it on a very expensive 1/12 scale Ford GT40 MKII. The kit alone cost over $300, plus I added over $200 worth of after-market goodies. The Future ruined the model.

I too have stopped using Future for anything but dipping canopies. I prefer to use Alclad Aqua Gloss or if I'm in a pinch, I'll use Testors Acryl Clear in Matte, Semi-gloss and Gloss. I do like the Alclad Aqua Gloss, it goes on smooth and dries fast.

Jello, 

Testor's or Model Master?

Johnny, 

I am with ya.  I have a rather expense 1/32 Tamiya P51-D, and I don't want to screw it up with a bad paint job. 

This is why I am making sure all of this works on a smaller model first. 

Don 

The best results to get with clearcoat over alclad is the range of alclad clearcoats- it als smels like a laqure I think ( it is not aqua gloss) and you get it in all different ranges of shine level.

It is the only stuff I have found that does not really change the look of alclad.

Theuns

Theuns, 

How does it react to Micro Sol and Micro Set?

Don, check out this Sabre I just did. I used allot of micro sol the get the hard decals to form well and it did not affect the alclad. Look also at the clearcoat I put over it, it basically just tied the decals into the rest of the scheme without reducing the alclad look.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/169849.aspx?page=2

Hope it helps.

Theuns

OK, that darn link doesn't work it seems - go look at my post in "metal masters" GB

Theuns

Don, check out this Sabre I just did. I used allot of micro sol the get the hard decals to form well and it did not affect the alclad. Look also at the clearcoat I put over it, it basically just tied the decals into the rest of the scheme without reducing the alclad look.

 

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/169849.aspx?page=2

Hope it helps.

 

Theuns

 

Decal solvents and setting solutions do not seem to affect Alclad, but CA accelerator does!  Do not use accelerator after Alclad is on model.

Theuns,

SWEET!  Like the plane jumped of the box art! 

Don, 

Kicker seems to affect ANY paint it comes in contact with. 

Okay, last question, my Alcad II base black gloss is still tacky even after a few weeks.  

Can I use Tamiya Gloss Black acrylic? 

If so, they drying time before I can polish it with 6000 grit?

Don, I wonder why the alclad black has not cure yet, what is the weather like there?

I have used it in the winter (granted it is not northern colds) but still it dries very fast....within a few minutes.

Either try sand it, I do think it might be difficult if it is tacky and clogg your micr mesh or just see what can remove it back to plastic maybe?

Theuns

FWIW, I don't like Alclad black base because it never seemed to dry fully for me. Even after a week.

I build the model, prime with Gunze Mr. Surfacer 1500, then spray Tamiya X-1 gloss black on it. I thin it with the lacquer thinner. On my recent F-86, I let it sit for two days on the initial coat, but I actually came back and redid the black. I layed the black down on an evening, then came back the next day at lunch and sprayed Alclad Airframe Aluminum.

My go-to clear for Alclad is their Aqua Gloss, which is an acrylic and must be cleaned with water (or it will harden in your airbrush and be a HUGE mess. According to the bottle, you can spray it 6 hours after a metal coat is layed down. I shot mine in about 4.5 hours, but I also bring my builds inside and let them dry in a pretty non-humid, 72-degree house.

Once the Aqua Gloss is dry, I add decals, and then do another coat of Aqua Gloss before my panel line washes.

I have not gotten cracked paint when flipping between Tamiya, Alclad Lacquer and Aqua Gloss. I HAVE gotten problems when I used Alclad Duraluminum directly over Airframe Aluminum on another project. It had been about 36 hours since the airframe went down, and the solvent in the Duraluminum attacked it.

I hope that helps a little. It has worked for me on two builds so far.

A note on clears: I LOVE Alclad's Gloss Klear Kote on everything but Alclad. As it's a lacquer, it uses the same solvent as their paints, and I have found that it changes the colors. If you lay decals down on the metal without clearing it first, then clear it, it's basically like decal carrier film hi-liter.

Anyway, here is the F-86 I mentioned:

-BD-