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Howdy all!
First post on here, a bit new to the aircraft scene. I'm mainly over on Scale Auto most of the time, as most of my builds are F1 and other various race cars. But a cheap F-14 brought me back to aircraft and it is quite a nice change a pace! However, one thing you don't have to worry about in F1 modeling is canopies. And that is where my biggest draw back is. I'm trying to snag up as many Eduard masks as I can, but some kits like the airfix metor just can't get here quick enough. One thing I am used to working with is Bare Metal Foil and that is what i've been using to mask canopies. And its great!! Until it comes off. And this is where my problems begin. It leaves the adhesive residue on the canopy, so I got put it in 70% Iso Alch. for a bit and take it out. Works wonders removing the residue, but it also remove a bit of the paint as you can with it. Now the base colors are acrylic, but I then sprayed a laquer gloss then flat cover over the top, so I was a bit perplexed. Did i not allow the laquer enough time to dry? Would coating the canopy in future before I mask and paint help with this situation?
Thanks for all your help in advance, can't wait to learn more!
Dipping the canopy in future first would help. I have heard that Goo-Gone on a cotton swab will take the adhesive off without bothering the paint or the future below it. I use future first on all my canopies. Let it dry and cure at least overnight. Then I use blue painters tape for masking the canopies after sticking it to my arm a few times to lessen the sticking power. I follow that with acrylic paint (vallejo). The tape comes off after the paint cures with no problem.
Hope that this helps.
Jim
Main WIP:
On the Bench: Artesania Latina (aka) Artists in the Latrine 1/75 Bluenose II
I keep hitting "escape", but I'm still here.
Cleaning off the residue is why I stopped masking with bmf and use tamiya tape solely now. Sometimes it just wont clean up entirely.
Tangotango Cleaning off the residue is why I stopped masking with bmf and use tamiya tape solely now. Sometimes it just wont clean up entirely.
I agree. I only use Tamiya tape now. Sure glad they came out with the new, real narrow stuff! Same thing with liquid masks, devilish stuff to get off!
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
There are better ways to mask than using foil. While it is true the results are pretty good, that residue is a pain. Yes, Goo Gone and Future help, but in the end there are easier ways to mask canopies. As mentioned earlier, Tamiya tape is a good alternative. To be truthful, I almost always look for the Eduard pre-cut canopy masks for whichever kit I am working on. It is usually the one aftermarket accessory I always pay for. Chalk it up to laziness, but many-a-kit spent months on the shelf because I didn't want to take the time to manually mask its glass. Looking at you WWII bombers! The Eduard masks may be a cheat but they are really handy.
"Ahh the Luftwaffe. The Washington Generals of the History Channel" -Homer Simpson
I like to mask usint Tamiya tape. I just put it on with one hard edge running along the most visible seam so I don't have to trim it there, and I let it overlap the frame. Then I set the canopy on a light (usually my cellphone flash light) and that lets me see through the tape to trim perfectly with a sharp knife. I just make sure it's angled so that it's cutting somewhat into the groove of the framework where it meets the "glass." Think of hitting a 90-degree angle diagonally.
It gives a clean, crisp canopy line every time, and it leaves no residue.
-BD-
mobiusoneso I got put it in 70% Iso Alch. for a bit and take it out.
I love Eduards masks, especially for complex canopies .
Your comments and questions are always welcome.
For really complex canopies and greenhouses, like an SBD or bombers, I use a time-consuming technique that, while slow does a very good job as far as accuracy of mask.
I do it in three sessions. I will mask and paint all vertical/transverse frames in one session, all longitudinal frames in a second, and diagonals or other frame pieces I could not do in previous two sessions in the third session. The advantage of this method is that no really accurate cutting of the tape is required.
I use bare metal foil on some and I like it. Works well for the smaller seams as it conforms to the lines very well. Yes, you get some sticky stuff left behind, but this is what has worked for me.
Make sure you have gloss or dull coated your paint surface (the seams of the canopy). I then take some warm water with small amount of dish soap on a cotton swab and rub the canopy. The soap takes off most of the residue. I then use another cotton swab and dip it in Novus #1 Clean and Shine polish and go over the canopy again. Seems to work very well for me.
John
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