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Need Help with Model Master Metalizer

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  • Member since
    April 2013
  • From: Eleva, Wisconsin
Posted by Greatmaker on Saturday, October 8, 2016 5:52 PM

JohnnyK

That's looking really good!

 

Thanks Johnny

Blast I just noticed that I didn't extend the black on the engines far enough back. Oh well that ship has long since sailed

 

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Saturday, October 8, 2016 4:46 PM

That's looking really good!

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    April 2013
  • From: Eleva, Wisconsin
Posted by Greatmaker on Saturday, October 8, 2016 4:16 PM

 

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Saturday, October 8, 2016 2:47 PM

Johnny reminds of a method I used to use, when I first started using rattlecan metalizer. 

I would mask off a couple panels and spray them with a primer...peel off the masking then when the primer was dry to the touch, I'd hit the whole model with whatever metalizer I had. The panels that had the primer on them would have a different tone to them. It was due to the texture of the flat primer vs. smooth plastic.

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Saturday, October 8, 2016 2:35 PM

I have been using Testprs Metalizer paint for a long time. I use rattle cans so I am limited to Aluminum Plate and Stainless Steel. They are both buffable.

Just a few hints:

1. Do not paint the model with primer prior to appling the Metalizer paint. Metalizer will be smoother and more shiney without a primer.

2. I use a paper blending stick to buff the Metalizer. It produces  a very smooth finish. Blending sticks can be found next to the pastels in craft stores.

3. When the Metalizer paint is buffed with a blending stick it will not come off on your fingers.

4. I use post-it notes to mask off airplane panels.

5. I mostly use Aluminum Plate, but also use Stainless Steel on a few panels (see below)

6. I lightly brush the Metalizer with 0000 steel wool to simulate the grain that is noticeable in aluminum sheets. (see below)

7. I use Tamyia Smoke to weather the model, but be careful with it. You need to use it almost like drybrushing.

 

 

 

 

 

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Saturday, October 8, 2016 2:32 PM

I use MM Metalizers exclusively for NMF.

I start with Magnesium overall...as it is darker. Even though it is the non-buff type, I still buff it a little. 

Then I might pick out a couple panels with Steel. I use a very small/tight spray and kinda "marble/mottle" the panel with it (freehand).

The rest of the panels will get the same treatment with aluminum and/or aluminum plate.

I do prefer the non-buff type, but still do a little buffing. The buffing type tends to spread a bit and cover up the darker color underneath.

After the NMF is applied, I gloss lacquer it, then mask for any other colors. I mask with Tamiya tape, but de-tack it first, by sticking to my forehead a time or two.

 

 

Here's one from a while back...

  • Member since
    August 2015
  • From: the redlands Fl
Posted by crown r n7 on Saturday, October 8, 2016 1:09 PM

 I use post it notes to mask panels 

 

 

 Nick.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Posted by DDonSS3 on Saturday, October 8, 2016 1:06 PM

Try using Post-It notes or even bits of wet newspaper for a mask. If you use wet paper, be sure to wick away the excess moisture and make sure you don't have any droplets where you want to spray.

  • Member since
    April 2013
  • From: Eleva, Wisconsin
Need Help with Model Master Metalizer
Posted by Greatmaker on Saturday, October 8, 2016 12:09 PM

I'm trying to create panel shading. I sprayed the whole model with MM non buffing aluminum first then went back and hit the panels with MM magnesium. I didn't mask the panels for fear of lift up and they looked too dark anyway. I tried to cover them  with a light spray of the aluminum but it just covered it all up with no remaining shade bleeding through. What do you guys do?  Mask and spray? I have steel, stainless steel and magnesium as my choices. Also any tips on lightning the control surfaces. I usually just hit that with a faint coating of white MM acrylic but it actually darkened it instead. Thanks in advance 

 

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