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mobiusoneNow I just have to figure out the best material to represent the arrestor cable in 1/72...
First thing that comes to my mind is braided fishing line. Something in the 17lb. range...(which is about the same diameter as 6lb. monofiliment). I think all it would take is maybe a wash, to give it its color(it's olive/green). Anyway, I can send ya a couple feet of it, if ya want to give it a try.
You can find clear acrylic rod at usplastics.com in several different diameters. It is fairly cheap; however it looks like you have to buy a minimum of 6', but at .32 per foot, that is a pretty decent price.
Another thought for shaping the rod, after you've sanded it to shape, using a flame near the acrylic (not touching it) the heat will clear up the sanded areas. This is how we used to do it when I worked for a sign company and did work with acrylic sheet that had been sanded, the heat from the flame would help the acrylic clear up. This does take some practice to get it right.
On the Bench: Lots of unfinished projects!
Mobius,
I usually look for a local plastics store. Do a google search to see what's in your area. You may have to call around. I don't think I've ever seen clear acrylic rod in a hobby shop.
When I worked on lighting for a Star Wars kit, I got my LED's here:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/
Sometimes you can find assortments of, say, 100 different LED's and resistors. Depends how skilled you are at building LED circuits. Or you can try to find Christmas lights, which are premade and a bit easier to get up and running.
One last thing: when you get your acrylic rod, put it in the end of a power drill if you have one--where you'd normally put the drill bit. You can grind down the rod as you turn it in the drill, using finer and finer sandpapers or polishes. Just don't go too fast or you'll melt the rod.
--Chris
"Some say the alien didn't die in the crash. It survived and drank whiskey and played poker with the locals 'til the Texas Rangers caught wind of it and shot it dead."
Dirk that is a wonderful idea! I love the hiding the wires by running it down the landing gear idea! Seeing as its 1/72 that is a much better idea. Now to find some mini blue LEDs! Would anybody know the best place to get acrylic rods?
Sounds like it would be pretty cool if you can pull it off.
Two things I would do: find some clear acrylic rod of a diameter that will just fit inside your engine exhausts. If you are able to shape the rod to a conical point, you can polish it and it will look like the afterburner shock wave coming out, when its lit with the LED's.
2nd, if you mount the jet on a base that looks like a carrier deck, have the main gear touching the deck. I always try to use the landing gear to hide any support rods that hold the model up. You could also run your wires down one gear strut to hide them. Installing the battery pack inside the base and the switch on the side of the base rather than the model is a lot easier. That way all you have to do is run wires to the model without worrying about making a lot of modifications to it.
Just my .02. Hope it helps.
Howdy all!
I had a quick conceptual question for you all. In a few months is the IPMS show in Lake Charles, and the show theme escapes me, other than the fact it has to do with a hook. So my idea was to create a diorama of an F-18F landing, using Hasy's F-18F along with the wolfpack flap down set. I might pose it as if it is just about to catch with the tail hook, but my other thought was, what if I modeled it as if it just caught and the pilot has hit full afterburner in case of a no hook!
To do this, I was thinking, I could place blue mini LEDs deep into the exhaust nozels, replicating to my best ability the afterburners. It probably wouldn't be to complicated, just run the LED to a battery. Is there such a thing as a magent powered on/off switch for batteries? Or something like that where I didn't have to have a switch on the plane? Is all of this making any sense? Hahaha.
Thanks for any thoughts or suggestions! I want to make this one great!
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