Using Automotive Primer

I've used automotive primer for years on my models but I don't use that particular type of primer and wouldn't reccommend using that type of primer on yours either.  It's used as a filler for scratches, pinholes and other types of surface imperfections.  The other type of auto primer is used to show you any imperfections on the surface, protect bare metal on the surface and to give you a common color surface (If you have ever sprayed a white top coat over an origionally red surface, you will know what I mean - the red shows up as a pink stain  shortly after you have finished painting). 

So which primer should I use because Rust-Oleum has half a dozen primers, each designed for a specific application.

Hello!

I don't know the Rustoleum brand, but what you want is a primer that isn't too much of a filler, to keep the surface detail on your builds. If you take a filler-primer, it will fill the panel lines, rivets and stuff like that, and we don't want anything like that to happen, right? Best thing to do is to take an old model or some styrene scrap and just test the stuff. Then coose the primer that's just right for the intended application. Hope it helps - good luck with your builds and have a nice day

Paweł

I feel the panel lines on many kits are overly large and deep, and a full-bodied primer makes it easier to fill those :-)

If I do not want a thick coat, I can just mist on a thin coat and it does not obscure detail that much, but does improve adhesion on following paint.

I find on the Rustoleum primers, if I want a thick coat I need to do it in two steps- a light mist coat, and then after that is dry, a heavy coat. If I try to do a thick coat over bare plastic I get crack-like flaws in the surface where it does not cover uniformly- it seems like something happens in the drying and the paint shrinks away from some areas.

I like to use what you have pictured on my armor builds. 

I think armor paint is thick so I figure a thick primer helps with that look. 

I have also used regular household paint primer thinned with water and sprayed with my airbrush. A pint is next to nothing and lasts for years and years. 

When ever I am at the big box hoem stores I check out the "OOP's" paint. Many times you can get a tin of off colors for .50 cents or so. 

At Hobbylobby I check out the clearance isle, I'll find pin washes and such in the types of paint used for stained glass or jewlery making, a multitude of colors perfect for washes and panel lines.  

While in the Jewlery isle check out the fantastic prices on sprue cutters, they are flush cut pliers for about 1/4 what a good set from the Hobby store costs. Don't forget to use the 40% off coupon either. In fact I don't pass hobby Lobby without stopping to use the 40% off coupon. Even if I just buy a bottle of Vallajo or Model master paint. $1.50 for paint is not to bad. 

I used that exact paint on an aircraft model I am working on.  I recommend decanting for better control and thinner coats with an airbrush.

As one poster mentioned there are different Rustoleum primers out there. Rustoleum is my go-to primer but not the one you posted. The one I use can be used on plastic and is dry and wet sandable. The key to using Rustoleum is spray in several light coats. Mine went on really smooth with zero issues.

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

As one poster mentioned there are different Rustoleum primers out there. Rustoleum is my go-to primer but not the one you posted. The one I use can be used on plastic and is dry and wet sandable. The key to using Rustoleum is spray in several light coats. Mine went on really smooth with zero issues.

 

I use white Dupli-color automotive primer from auto stores for many models. It leaves a thin coat, especially because I decant it for airbrush application. It also polishes to a nice satin finish with a cotton ball, helps the top coat stick and protects the paint from hotter paints like automotive paint. If you look at the labels you will see that they describe different functions such as metal-etching, or filler/primer. Generally the white non filler ones are the best non modeling-specific  primers for our hobby unless you need to fill a really rough surface in.

Gregifur

 

 

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

As one poster mentioned there are different Rustoleum primers out there. Rustoleum is my go-to primer but not the one you posted. The one I use can be used on plastic and is dry and wet sandable. The key to using Rustoleum is spray in several light coats. Mine went on really smooth with zero issues.

 

 

 

 

I just discovered this primer today as well. It's called Painter's Choice plastic compatible primer. It's darker than I expected, but I'm hoping that it adheres really well.

 

 

Painter's Choice goes on very thick, and will obscure detail if you are not careful.  It is one of those primers you have to be careful to put on quickly and lightly, both for the primer and the colors.