P-51D NMF Assistance Required

I have tried Alclad and Testors Metalizer paints to reproduce a NMF. I find that both result in what looks like a painted surface. This is just my opinion, but I find that it is not possible to make a painted surface look like metal. Paint always look like paint. Only metal looks like metal.  I have started using a combination of Metalizer paint and Bare Metal Foil on my models. On the following F-86, the center sections of the wings are Metalizer paint. The remainder of the model is Bare Metal Foil. The F-104 and the P-47 are all BMF. You should give it a try.  

My next BMF model will be "THE BEAST"!!! What is THE BEAST? The Revell 1/48 B-29 of course.

Hi Don,

Thank you for the information. I some what agree on the finish, in that an Aluminium finish maybe easier for a novice in this particular method of paint finishing.

I have a test mule that I can practice on to get the process nailed, as there are several future builds I wish to use this paint finish on.

Thanks

Damian

Note: If your Mustang has fabric covered control surfaces then they were painted with lacquer or "dope".

I mask over alclad all the time no problem.,use tamiya good quality masking tape and remove carefully.

Alclad is allot tougher than you think. Both models were masked and the glare pannel on the P-51 after alclad was on. Just work slowly.

Theuns

I do all the masking before the Alclad.  Paint all non nmf areas first, mask those off.  Now work on the black undercoat.  As someone mentioned above, it must be glossy and flawless.

Now, decide on the finish you want-  polished aluminum, just plain aluminum, or white (weathered) aluminum.  A highly polished aluminum is not normal, only found on squadron commander's or museum aircraft.  Just plain aluminum is probably your best bet for starters.

Once you get experienced, you can control the sheen by the thickness you put down.  I can make polished aluminum Alclad look like their regular aluminum by putting it down thick (their regular aluminum does not look that polished if you put it on thin). But I suggest you use the regular aluminum (I think at some point they called it airframe aluminum).

JUst watch the vide, and then tell me what you think. It is about an hour long, just about metalizer paints. 

Hi ;

  Although I still use Foil I am leaning toward trying Alclad 2 or Vallejo's products . I think the choice is up to you .But remember this .There are some problems trying to clearcoat NMF finishes and luster .Check out any article in the Mag and see how it was addressed .You may Not want to deal with that .  T.B.

Gerhard,

I spray with an airbrush, I have never ever had any luck with a rattle can...

I read the article in latest FSM about Vellajo Metal paints and the problems the author had, I would rather not have the same problem. So I will stick with Alclad 2 as it is generally regarded as the best for metal finishes.

Thanks

Damian

Thats correct. After watching that video, I will never try Alclad. 

Also, please read this article:

http://www.ascalecanadian.com/2010/09/fast-and-easy-natural-metal-finishes.html

Theuns,

The only problem, based on the Alclad website, is that high shine can't easily be masked or painted over. Both items which I will need to do on my build, is this correct?

Did you encounter this problem?

Thanks

Damian

Thanks Gerhard,

I will have a look at it.

Damian

I found this video VERY informative:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovNhkZcfcOs

No worries, glad you found it helpfull.

I prime the model and do the final sanding. Then I spray on thin coats of gloss black emanle thinned allot with turpentine. I slowly build up the gloss and then givie it a good wet gloss coat. I then spray the turpentine that I clean the AB pot with over the whole model to help the last gloss coat to flow better, you need to be very carefull with this and must be able to keep moving the model so that the paint doesnt run or pool. It usually leaves a very smooth glosst surface ready for alclad.

If the black emanel doesnt  stick inside the pannel and rivet detail dont worry about it, it actually gives some noce detail when NMF gos on.

Theuns

Hey Theuns,

Thank you very much, thats exactly what I was looking for. I have read a fair amount about the critical part of a proper preparation as even the smallest scratch, mark etc will show up.

Again, I really appreciate you taking the  time to provide the feedback.

BTY Very nice F86 Sabre and SAAF P51

Cheers

Damian

Just some advice, for alclad you need to have a flawless finnish , alclad is as thin as water and does not haide flaws.

As for the base black I use tamiya black enamel to give a nice smooth surface.

Here is the same  alluminium also in different pannels but dulled down allot to give a weathered look

As I understand the wings on the P-51 were putties and painted with silver lacure. The fuselage and tail was NMF.

For factory fresh I would go with alclad airframe alluminium over a gloss black basecoat. It will take a few light coats to start building up the nmf look, I usually do 3 coats to have a dark alluminum look, mask off those pannels I want to look darker and spray 2-3 more light coats to make the rest more shiny and lighter.

The "tone difference" using one shade of paint is nice and subtle.

If you want to tone down the shine look (after decals that can go straight onto the alclad) you can spray alclad range of clearcoats over it. I find that they are the onlt clearcoats that do not affect the metal look.

Here you can see the different look of the same alclad by masking some pannels