Novus 123 on canopies.

Try Gorilla Glue Clear 5 min epoxy. It dries PERFECTLY clear and works excellent on clear parts and wont cause any hazing. I stopped using CA for clear parts when Lawdog turned me onto Gorilla, its a game changer for clear parts.

BK

I agree Don.  However my glue of choice is CA, as white glue just doesn't do it. So in order to use CA to attach clear parts I have to Future them to avoid the risk of clouding on very expensive models.

I recently started the Revell Germany 1/48th PBA and the main canopy is defective from the mold. So I either wait a month for them to send me a new one, or  this is going to  require clean up before I can Future it.  Hence my Novus question.

I have auto body sandpaper from 220 to 12,000.  I have also ordered the Tamiya polishing compounds but they haven't arrived from Hong Kong yet.

Many times a car model windshield will also require some clean up before one can dip in Future.  This is the second model in a year from Revell Germany with a serious injection mold problem on a main part.

I think you have to consider the age and state of weather of the bird. Old plexiglas- WW2 and older, hazed very rapidly in the sunlight and didn't look that great after a few weeks outdoors.  I think an older plane, heavily weathered otherwise, looks funny with a pristine canopy.

In my opinion on canopies, you either polish them OR you future them. I prefer now to polish over future. In most cases I find it looks more realistic. But, to answer your question, it may leave a film that the future may not correctly bond to. The use of future for canopies is only there to make them look more clear and 'thinner' then the kit plastic. They can look very very nice with some careful polishing as an alternative. But, each builder has their own preferences.

BK