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F16 Build

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  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Louisiana, for now
F16 Build
Posted by Michelle on Friday, July 14, 2017 5:32 PM

Getting back started!

Got some parts coming for my Charger build in the next week or so, so while I'm waiting on those, I decided to do some work on my F16. It's most done up to about step 3 or 4, except for a few pieces here and there.

Got a few itty bitty pieces done today, most of which won't be seen, but plenty ready to go on as soon as the glue sets up. I did my first ever decal! Didn't go as smooth as I thought, and will have to read up on that, but it's tiny and I don't think it'll even be seen, so I ain't worrying too much. Nervous about attaching the fuselage top to the bottom, but it's the next step and I've gotta do it to be able to move on...

Michelle

Michelle

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Friday, July 14, 2017 5:54 PM

Instructions on your phone?  Too Much Tech!Big Smile

John

To see build logs of my models, go here: http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.htm

  

  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Louisiana, for now
Posted by Michelle on Friday, July 14, 2017 7:33 PM

They're on my tab. Had to download a copy because I lost the originals. I like them better on the tab, though because I can zoom in to see little details better... 

Michelle

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Friday, July 14, 2017 10:38 PM

I'm afraid my tablet would be the recipient of unwanted glue and paint, but it does seem like there are advantages.

John

To see build logs of my models, go here: http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.htm

  

  • Member since
    August, 2013
Posted by Jay Jay on Saturday, July 15, 2017 10:23 AM

Sheeesh, these kids can't do anything without their phones nowadays...Smile

Yup, it's a scary "I hope I don't mess this up " moment when finally gluing the fsg. together.  trust me, it gets easier... as a tip from the great people here on the forums, I use Tamiya extra thin on the fsg join.  Simply hold the halves together and glue an inch or so at a time by touching the glue brush to the joint and it just disappears by capillary action into the seam. Hold it for a few seconds and move on to the next inch. This technique works well on good fitting parts.

 

 

 

 

 

 I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.

  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Louisiana, for now
Posted by Michelle on Saturday, July 22, 2017 1:06 PM

Sorry I haven't been keeping up with this as much as I should be. I've been bitten by a late spring cleaning bug, but have been slowly picking at little pieces and parts to put together during my cleaning breaks, mostly just messing with landing gear parts. Got them mostly painted, figured out how they go together, but not attached, so not much to show. 

I do have a question though. I have a gut feeling I need to get the main part of the jet painted before I attach the landing gear. I'm not sure how I'd mask the gear off to keep it from getting sprayed, but would like to temporarily attach the covers so that the paint job matches really nicely. How would I go about doing that? There's plenty, plenty Itty bitty little detail pieces that would need to be masked off too. Do you guys just wait to add those after, too? 

 

Also, is there a certain glue that you use for the clear pieces? 

Michelle

  • Member since
    February, 2003
  • From: LA-ish, SoCal
Posted by oortiz10 on Saturday, July 22, 2017 1:40 PM

Hi Michelle,

If I could, I'd like to offer my two cents. I like to add the fiddly bits (i.e. landing gear) after the airframe's been painted. Like you, I look(ed) for ways to temoparily add the doors to the build so that they'd get painted at the same time as the fuselage. In the process, I came up with two methods that work pretty well for me.

First, I use Silly Putty (yeah, the stuff we played with as kids) to fill in the wheel wells. Once it's packed in there, it stays where it's supposed to and it's resistant to even enamel and laquer paints. So much so that I've used the same two eggs of Silly Putty for years. It's flexible enough to get into all the nooks and crannies, and when you're ready, it peels out cleanly.

 

 

As you can see, I painted and weathered my wheel wells before spraying the NMF fuselage color, and the Silly Putty pulled away clean without damaging the underlying paint.

Granted, you have to paint the doors and fuselage separately if you use this method, but you can use Silly Putty to paint the doors and fuselage as one assembly. First dry fit your doors until they're as good a fit as you're going to get. Then paint (and weather if you prefer) the wheel wells, and doors' interior their appropriate color(s). Next, stuff some Silly Putty in the wells then press the doors into place. The Silly Putty's sticky enough to hold the doors in place while you paint the exterior color. It's OK if the doors don't fit perfectly. The Silly Putty will hold the doors in place and, if you packed enough in the well, will seal off the edges and interior from the exterior color.

Once everything's all painted, I carefully pull the doors from their place, pull the Silly Putty out, then finish the construction.

Sorry I don't have pictures of the second method, but I hope I explained it clearly enough to make sense. Let me know if you have any questions.

Cheers!

-O

 

-It's Omar, but they call me "O".

  • Member since
    March, 2005
  • From: Lancaster, South Carolina
Posted by Devil Dawg on Saturday, July 22, 2017 7:16 PM

Dang, Omar!! Silly Putty is a great idea! Gonna hafta try that on my next build. I always just stuff ripped-up paper towels in the bays and cockpit. It works, but takes a while to accomplish.

Devil Dawg

On The Bench: Travel 1/48th Hasegawa A-7 Corsair II;  Travel 1/48th Hasegawa F/A-18F Super Hornet;  Travel 1/48th Eduard/Hasegawa Ultimate Sabre with "MiG Mad Marine" markings;

Build one at a time? Hah! That'll be the day!!

  • Member since
    August, 2013
Posted by Jay Jay on Sunday, July 23, 2017 10:31 AM

I second the "good idea on the Silly Putty"

For the clear parts you need special glue . I use the "5 Second Fix" as seen on TV. The laser activated stuff. it's pricey but works as advertised and ideal for canopies and such. I've seen others use Elmer's white glue, Testors window making glue etc. but these don't bond very strong.

 

 

 

 

 

 I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.

  • Member since
    June, 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Sunday, July 23, 2017 12:15 PM

Hi Jay - Jay !

 I haven't tried it yet but I am thinking that "Clear Spru - Glu "  would work in very small beads to attach a canopy.

  • Member since
    May, 2017
  • From: Denver, Colorado
Posted by MrStecks on Monday, July 24, 2017 1:14 PM

Michelle

Sorry I haven't been keeping up with this as much as I should be. I've been bitten by a late spring cleaning bug, but have been slowly picking at little pieces and parts to put together during my cleaning breaks, mostly just messing with landing gear parts. Got them mostly painted, figured out how they go together, but not attached, so not much to show. 

I do have a question though. I have a gut feeling I need to get the main part of the jet painted before I attach the landing gear. I'm not sure how I'd mask the gear off to keep it from getting sprayed, but would like to temporarily attach the covers so that the paint job matches really nicely. How would I go about doing that? There's plenty, plenty Itty bitty little detail pieces that would need to be masked off too. Do you guys just wait to add those after, too?

 

Also, is there a certain glue that you use for the clear pieces? 

 

Sometimes kits supply different bay doors for gear-up and gear-down options, and they can be slightly different, so it can be a problem to try to use the gear-down doors in the up position so as to paint them at the same time as the plane.

I usually fill the gear bays and paint the doors seperately.  I like Omar's tip about using Silly Putty.  I'll have to try that.  I usually use a combonation of foam and blue tack, but the blue tack leaves a lot of residue that takes time to clean out.

For attaching clear parts I usually use elmer's glue for the canopy and super-glue for smaller bits, like landing lights.

Cheers, Mark


On the bench: Eduard 1/32 P-47 Dottie Mae

In the queue: Eduard 1/48 F6F-3 Weekend Edition;  Tamiya 1/32 P-51 Mustang;  Eduard F2 190A-9 ProfiPACK Edition;  WNW 1/32 Fokker D.VII (Fok.) "Early";  Revell 1/48 B-25J;  AMT 1/48 Lockheed Vega;  AMT 1/48 Stinson Reliant SR-9;  Revell 1/48 TBF Avenger;  Hasegawa 1/48 Nakajima E8N1 Type 95 Reconnaissance Seaplane (DAVE) Model 1

  • Member since
    May, 2009
  • From: Riverton, Wyoming
Posted by Andrew Magoo on Wednesday, July 26, 2017 7:55 PM

Howdy Michelle, I use the Testors clear parts glue. It cleans up with a damp cloth with water, seals very well, and once dry (cured) isn't very easy to get the part back off. Option two is to clear coat the canopy with acrylic floor finish, clean or sand the mating edge and use super glue. Once clear coated the clear parts won't fog up due to the super glue fumes. A often forgotten step in building plastic models is the first step---wash the entire model spru with parts and loose parts in a soapy warm water bath scrubbing the parts and then rinse in fresh/clear water pat dry and the let dry over night. this gets rid of residual mold release lubricant. A lot of loose tiny parts can be put into a tea strainer that is used for bulk loose tea or any thing that will allow soapy water into the parts and then rinsed without loosing parts. Glue and paint does not like to adhere any kind of lubricant. Good luck, Andrew Magoo

  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Louisiana, for now
Posted by Michelle on Sunday, July 30, 2017 12:22 PM

First coat of camo

I hope the pic actually shows up. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong...

Anyways, finally getting a little progress to show. Decided to start painting the camo in yesterday. Grabbed a pencil, sketched in what I hope are close enough to be passable lines, thinned down a little bit of paint and got to it. Let that dry overnight just to be sure, did a really light sand this morning, and am deciding if I wanna start on the underside, or make another pass topside... Still have a long way to go, but getting there slowly!

Michelle

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, July 31, 2017 5:29 AM

Nice start on the camo.

How are you adding the pic. It looks like you are useing the insert/edit link option. You need to use the one to the right of that, insert/edit image.

''I am a Norfolk man, and i glory in being so''

  

On the bench: Hasegawa 1/32nd Fw 190D-9    

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