Very old REVELL C-135.

I didn't get a shot of the date but I think the box was dated 1966 or 1967.  That means this model is older than I am! (1969).  

I cleaned up the glops left behind from the first assembler, and continued the assembly process.

I did the nose with a brush and was really surprised how evenly the paint went on.  I tried the Testors clear window maker and because of the angle of the window aperture the result isn't that great, but at least it is not an open hole.  The side windows worked out a little better. 

Those decals are easy to restore. Tape them up in a window that doesn't get condensation in the morning, where it gets morning sun. It'll take a couple of weeks but the yellow will disappear completely.

You would be wise to hit them with some clear coat too, and then trim them carefully.

Since the reference showed lines on the wings, I tried to do them.  I masked as best I could but the raised detail of the rivets was impeding a nice sharp line. (As well as my inexperience)  I also got some paint lifting.  I suspect because I didn't wait long enough before unmasking.  Oh well.  Live and learn.  Nevertheless, despite a not so crisp line, there is wing detail.  Yea! 

Some undercarriage detail as per the box instructions.  I think the paint I used was Testors "rubber" enamel.  Looks OK.

Thanks for responding Gmorrison.  You're right.  That was the technique I used.  I saw a blurb on the web mentioning putting the decal sheets in the sun.  The poster was in England.  I said "If it works for him, it should work gangbusters for me in Texas."   It took about a month.  Everyday I would throw the decal sheet on my dash when I went in to work.  Worked like a champ.

My next concern was that they would disintegrate being 50 years old.  I used the Microscale decal film and was able to save them.  Very happy about that.  

I then used the Microscale decal solution for the first time, and I think they came out OK.  I was wigged out that I would melt them, but I got a feel for it, and I am happy with the results, considering. 

One thing I learned.  When I gave the model to dad I said, "Look they (Revell) give you this little jack so the model doesn't tip over."  He replied, "No, that is for real.  Since the plane doesn't open from the back, everything gets loaded from the side door, back to front, and we used to put those jacks there so the real plane wouln't tip over."

Interesting stuff.  

This is the finished model.  The goal was to get it together with some minimal detailing, learn some skills, try some products, and get inspired for the next one.  I am pleased with the results, all things considered.  Dad thought it was cool too.  Of course the first thing he said was "I was SAC, not MAC."  Made me laugh.  I said "It will have to be close enough."

Nice work! Hang in there and your builds will keep getting better and better. I've been building for 71 of my 77 years and I'm still learning. The members here have taught me a lot. If you stick with them, you won't go wrong.

Good luck.

Jim  

Sounds like you and your dad had some fun with this one.  And that's the way to do these old kits, just the way they came in the box.  According to Tom Graham's book the mold was first used in 1958.  It was made from 1958 to 1963 as kit H-287 and reissued in 1966 as H-275.  Then in 1968 as H-275 with the MAC decals.   I think the Revell kits of this vintage are great fun.

Thanks Jim and John.  I appreciate the responses.  I actually was able to purchase the B-52 that was in the same Jet Commando series.  The B-52 was also at Walker and dad's roomate Mike was a landing gear specialist.  Dad has some cool memories of that aircraft also.  I want to build that one next.  

An amazing finish with gifting your dad with SAC buit kit.  This is modeling at best, sharing it with dad!  Again, an amazing and heartfelt finish!

Your friend, Toshi

Thanks for the kind words Toshi.  I appreciate it. 

Hi Steve,

I was able to talk to dad and ask him about the jack.  THE jack was for real, but not THAT jack.  The jack in the kit is a stylized part so the model doesn't tip over.  The jack that dad used was exactly as you described it:  a giant screwjack that was placed much farther back than the model depicts.  I, for one, will sleep better now.  

Thanks for your input.  Learn something everyday, and thanks for the compliment.