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Sizeable gap at upper wing root = which filler?

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  • Member since
    April 2018
Sizeable gap at upper wing root = which filler?
Posted by Oxboy on Friday, April 27, 2018 1:27 PM

Say you have a gap of a good millimeter where the wing joins the fuselage on top.  What do you use to fill it?

Do you layer in the coats of PPP or Mr. Surfacer?

Or maybe a stretched piece of sprue with some Tamija extra thin? 

A problem I encountered is I filled such a gap with Bondo and it indeed filled, but it's impossible to get a feathered sanding with a concave 90 degree angle for me.  The Bondo on a flat seam or convex part (fuselage halves joining) seems to sand out great.

Thanks for any thoughts.

 

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Friday, April 27, 2018 1:39 PM

Sprue would seem to be the best option, as it would be the same hardness as the rest of the kit.

Or shim with some pieces of styrene stock, flat or square,  whatever you have to work with.

PPP or surfacer, that's getting a little big of a gap to fill with those.

If still in the dry fit stage, might try putting in something to spread the fuselage at the wing join to close up the gap.  Fairly common on some kits.  Can make the spreader out of thick sprue, styrene, etc.

  • Member since
    April 2018
Posted by Oxboy on Friday, April 27, 2018 1:48 PM

goldhammer

 

If still in the dry fit stage, might try putting in something to spread the fuselage at the wing join to close up the gap.  Fairly common on some kits.  Can make the spreader out of thick sprue, styrene, etc.

 

Can you explain this a little more please?  What do you mean "spread the fuselage"?  Do you mean like filling the gap with Sprue Goo?

  • Member since
    June 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Friday, April 27, 2018 1:55 PM

Oxboy ;

 Sometimes , Well most of the time  ,the halves of a fuselage are vertical parts . So when you assemble them , there is a space over the wing root area . Take Sprue or Brass tubing , and cut it to expand the fuselage a little .

 If you do this by trial and error you will find it works .Then Set the plane on some books with a little weight on it and with the wingtips on those books . When the glue dries you will have a tight seam and the right Dihedral ( wing angle )

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, April 27, 2018 2:01 PM

The suggestion there is to put a short piece of styrene in crosswise that spreads the two sides of the fuse apart enough to close the gaps on both sides.

Assuming that the cockpit doesn’t get in the way.

Thats your best bet. Your gaps are too big to fill because the geometry will never be right.

There will be flat spots where there should be concave curves.

Another thing to try- if your kit has separate pieces for the top left and right sides of the wing and one piece for the bottom; glue each top piece to the fuselage side first and then glue the bottom on.

That transfers the problem to the edges of the wing, but sometimes that’s easier to fix.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Friday, April 27, 2018 2:02 PM

Sometimes you need to make the fuselage, at the wing root opening, a little wider to get a tight fit.  You make a rod to wedge in between the fuselage halves to hold them at that additional width.  Might have to do that at both the front and rear of the wing root opening, and maybe in the middle.  Just depends on the width of the wing from front to back and where your gaps are.

Hope I explained a little better and cleared the mud from how I phrased it.  Along with TB's and GM's input.

  • Member since
    April 2018
Posted by Oxboy on Friday, April 27, 2018 4:48 PM

Thanks everybody!Big Smile

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: From the Mit, but live in Mason, O high ho
Posted by hogfanfs on Friday, April 27, 2018 4:57 PM

Oxboy,

I'll illustrate goldhammer's point. Add sprue braces to widen the fuselage, in this case the hull of a submarine. 

Hope this helps.

 Bruce

 

 On the bench:  1/48 Eduard MiG-21MF

                        1/35 Takom Merkava Mk.I

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Friday, April 27, 2018 10:41 PM

Widening the fuselage is good.  I sometimes glue plastic sheet to the upper wings and carve and sand the upper profile to match the upper surface of the wing, and then sand in the edge where the wing panel meets the fuselage until everything is happy.  Little or no sanding on the wing root to fuselage joint once the fit of the plastic card is good.

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.html

 

  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: UK
Posted by Jon_a_its on Saturday, April 28, 2018 3:46 AM

All the above are good...

Try to minimise the gap in the first place, by using spreader bars to make sure it connects, then shim out with plastic sprue or card, then use PPP as here: http://www.eastmidsmodelclub.co.uk/uploads/1/3/4/6/13468680/4122844_orig.jpg

I used it to span a small fingernail sized fillet  down the entire root. This has held up several model shows without flexing or cracking.

 

East Mids Model Club 32nd Annual Show 2nd April 2023

 http://www.eastmidsmodelclub.co.uk/

Don't feed the CM!

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, April 28, 2018 9:53 AM

With 10, 20, and 30 mil styrene strips available you can combine them to almost fill any gap. If the gap is not a constant width, you can taper the end of one of the strips to get pretty close to fitting, a thin filler material can then bridge the remaining gap.  Sometimes I dry fit them (gllued together) and scratch the profile along the top of the wing with an X-acto.  Then I cut them to profile before putting them in, rather than shaping them on the model.

 

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    August 2013
Posted by Putsie on Sunday, April 29, 2018 8:32 AM

Hi folks,

 

I use the same method that Dan and others use.  One suggestion that works for me, I first use a mechanics "feeler gauge" to estimate the shins I'll need.

 

have fun

 

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