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Say you have a gap of a good millimeter where the wing joins the fuselage on top. What do you use to fill it?
Do you layer in the coats of PPP or Mr. Surfacer?
Or maybe a stretched piece of sprue with some Tamija extra thin?
A problem I encountered is I filled such a gap with Bondo and it indeed filled, but it's impossible to get a feathered sanding with a concave 90 degree angle for me. The Bondo on a flat seam or convex part (fuselage halves joining) seems to sand out great.
Thanks for any thoughts.
Sprue would seem to be the best option, as it would be the same hardness as the rest of the kit.
Or shim with some pieces of styrene stock, flat or square, whatever you have to work with.
PPP or surfacer, that's getting a little big of a gap to fill with those.
If still in the dry fit stage, might try putting in something to spread the fuselage at the wing join to close up the gap. Fairly common on some kits. Can make the spreader out of thick sprue, styrene, etc.
goldhammer If still in the dry fit stage, might try putting in something to spread the fuselage at the wing join to close up the gap. Fairly common on some kits. Can make the spreader out of thick sprue, styrene, etc.
Can you explain this a little more please? What do you mean "spread the fuselage"? Do you mean like filling the gap with Sprue Goo?
Oxboy ;
Sometimes , Well most of the time ,the halves of a fuselage are vertical parts . So when you assemble them , there is a space over the wing root area . Take Sprue or Brass tubing , and cut it to expand the fuselage a little .
If you do this by trial and error you will find it works .Then Set the plane on some books with a little weight on it and with the wingtips on those books . When the glue dries you will have a tight seam and the right Dihedral ( wing angle )
The suggestion there is to put a short piece of styrene in crosswise that spreads the two sides of the fuse apart enough to close the gaps on both sides.
Assuming that the cockpit doesn’t get in the way.
Thats your best bet. Your gaps are too big to fill because the geometry will never be right.
There will be flat spots where there should be concave curves.
Another thing to try- if your kit has separate pieces for the top left and right sides of the wing and one piece for the bottom; glue each top piece to the fuselage side first and then glue the bottom on.
That transfers the problem to the edges of the wing, but sometimes that’s easier to fix.
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
Sometimes you need to make the fuselage, at the wing root opening, a little wider to get a tight fit. You make a rod to wedge in between the fuselage halves to hold them at that additional width. Might have to do that at both the front and rear of the wing root opening, and maybe in the middle. Just depends on the width of the wing from front to back and where your gaps are.
Hope I explained a little better and cleared the mud from how I phrased it. Along with TB's and GM's input.
Thanks everybody!
Oxboy,
I'll illustrate goldhammer's point. Add sprue braces to widen the fuselage, in this case the hull of a submarine.
Hope this helps.
Bruce
On the bench: 1/48 Eduard MiG-21MF
1/35 Takom Merkava Mk.I
Widening the fuselage is good. I sometimes glue plastic sheet to the upper wings and carve and sand the upper profile to match the upper surface of the wing, and then sand in the edge where the wing panel meets the fuselage until everything is happy. Little or no sanding on the wing root to fuselage joint once the fit of the plastic card is good.
John
To see build logs for my models: http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.html
All the above are good...Try to minimise the gap in the first place, by using spreader bars to make sure it connects, then shim out with plastic sprue or card, then use PPP as here: http://www.eastmidsmodelclub.co.uk/uploads/1/3/4/6/13468680/4122844_orig.jpg
I used it to span a small fingernail sized fillet down the entire root. This has held up several model shows without flexing or cracking.
East Mids Model Club 32nd Annual Show 2nd April 2023
http://www.eastmidsmodelclub.co.uk/
Don't feed the CM!
With 10, 20, and 30 mil styrene strips available you can combine them to almost fill any gap. If the gap is not a constant width, you can taper the end of one of the strips to get pretty close to fitting, a thin filler material can then bridge the remaining gap. Sometimes I dry fit them (gllued together) and scratch the profile along the top of the wing with an X-acto. Then I cut them to profile before putting them in, rather than shaping them on the model.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Hi folks,
I use the same method that Dan and others use. One suggestion that works for me, I first use a mechanics "feeler gauge" to estimate the shins I'll need.
have fun
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