Help with building Brassin Bombs

RudyOnWheels

Member since
April 2015
From: Detroit, MURDER CITY

Posted by RudyOnWheels on Friday, December 7, 2018 1:13 PM

For something like that I usually look around the house or garage for something round of about the correct size, to use to bend around. Possibly a Marker, candle, wife's lipstick, mens chapstick, etc. I agree "annealing" the metal with open flame will help as well. Thanks, Rudy

On the Bench:Revell AMT 1/25 GMC Sonoma, Revell 1/48 Dauntless, Dragon T-34/76

Recently Finished:1966 Charger, British Vosper P.T. Boat, 1962 pontiac Catalina 1:48 Tamiya Dehavilland Mosquito 1:24 Pinto, 1:24 1966 Chevy Suburban

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goldhammer

Member since
August 2014
From: Willamette Valley, Oregon

Posted by goldhammer on Tuesday, December 4, 2018 12:16 PM

John - nice tidbit of info to tuck away in the brain. Thanks.

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jeaton01

Member since
December 2002
From: Northern California

Posted by jeaton01 on Tuesday, December 4, 2018 11:56 AM

Pawel, brass is just the opposite of other metals, it will get softer if you quench it, usually done with cold water. Strange but true. Google annealing brass and you will get a lot of information from reloaders of ammunition.

John

To see build logs for my models: http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.html

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Pawel

Member since
May 2009
From: Poland

Posted by Pawel on Tuesday, December 4, 2018 5:18 AM

Hello!

It's really important to do it - heat the brass until it glows (that happens really fast) and then let it cool down on itself (so don't blow on it!). Doesn't take too much time neither, those are mostly very light parts, anyhow.

That simple trick drastically changes the material - it feels like a wholly different material after that. For me the annealing of a PE part has allowed me to correctly roll a 1/35 cooling jacket for a 1/35 Browning Ma Deuce.

Good luck with your bombs and have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

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Bish

Member since
December 2002
From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England

Posted by Bish on Tuesday, December 4, 2018 2:55 AM

I always struggle toi roll PE into a nice circle. Doing what Clint suggests does help a lot. I then just roll it back and forth and it will curve itself. I use a micro roller but any small rod shapped object will do.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

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Rambo

Member since
August 2012
From: Parker City, IN.

Posted by Rambo on Tuesday, December 4, 2018 1:39 AM

Try annealing the PE over a candle or any open flame to make it softer and easier to bend around the curve of the bomb. Just remember to let it cool before touching or bending it around the bomb don't want to melt the resin.

Clint

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B-1 CrewCheif

Member since
May 2016
From: Rapid city SD

Help with building Brassin Bombs

Posted by B-1 CrewCheif on Tuesday, December 4, 2018 12:52 AM

So for my most recent big project which was the 1:48 Hasegawa F-18F, the loadout i wanted to use required 10 GBU-32s

I got 2 of the Brassin sets but eduard has you use photoetch for the metal housing around the bomb. Where i need help is finding a way to make the photoetch conform to the curvature of the bomb.

Has anyone built these before or done something similar that can help me out and give me some pointers?

Thanks

Tags: 1:48 , 10 , 2 , 213 , 32 , Brass , Brassin , eduard , Etch , F , F-18 , F-18F , GBU , GBU-32 , Hasegawa , Help , Photo , Photoetch , Ressin , VFA , VFA-213

On the Bench: 1:32 Roden Stearman, 1:35 Orochi M3A3 Bradley, 1:6 Mandalorian figure

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