Humbrol matt clear coat ruined my model, pls help for a solution

I can't say specifically why this has happened (could be any number of things) but it sounds as if your flat coat was applied too heavily and it has "frosted". 

This can sometimes be fixed by applying a clear gloss coat over it (don't forget to re-mask your canopy) and then reapplying the flat. 

PS: I was going to suggest using isopropyl alcohol or windex to remove the offending acrylic flat coat as these wouldn't affect an enamel based base coat but you have allready applied the decals and both of these solvents would most likely strip or otherwise damage them.

I had something kinda like that, though not as extreme, with my F-16

Here's a pic

I lightly sanded which knocked down the flecks enough.  Others recenly have suggested a gloss coat as said above.

Here's the thread

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/177377.aspx

I shake the dullcoat extensively now and haven't repeated the issue.

Thx for your answer, I think I indeed applied the mat coat too heavy, I‘ll try to add a gloss coat on top of it! 

Thanks for your answer as well! I think I will add another gloss coat and I’m glad to Hear you haven’t met the same issue again, and that it isn’t the product but my fault 

Ahoy Dutchmodeler,

I experienced the same nasty frosty finish using MicroSol Clear Flat (acrylic stuff) on a Revell RF-4C Phanthom that I loved dearly.  I think it was because I put it on too thick and with too much pressure.

I wish I could give you more encouragement.  I tried the same remedies you've already explored without success.  I ended up stripping it down to bare plastic and starting over.

Hmmm.... I never use acrylics for clearcoats at all. I use mainly enamel or lacquer clearcoats for all my model finishes.

First off, always stir your paints, especially flat clears to help disperse the talc Medium. It’s ok to shake, but always finish up by stirring. Second, never put on a heavy coat when it comes to flat clears, all you need is a light mist coat. Third, the most common thing to do when fixing a paint screw up is to wet sand it out. I’m sure a quick polish with fine sand paper would help.

Strongeagle

I experienced the same nasty frosty finish using MicroSol Clear Flat (acrylic stuff)

Happened to me too, many years ago when I used Microscale’s clear flat on my F4U Corsair. Researched the problem, and answer I found then is in Paul Boyer’s Painting & Finishing Scale Model’s book. He listed the possible reasons as:

- humidity, this is least likely

- clear coat being incompatible with base coat resulting in crazing

- (most likely) flat coat not being thinned enough, resulting in this ‘frosting’ which is actually the flattening agent

Do remember to stir well to properly disperse the flattening agent, and thin sufficiently (Paul Boyer recommends 50:50). With this, I did not experience the problem again. 

If you want to remedy this, the frosted flat coat will need to be removed, if still possible (it should have cured by now). Otherwise, you might need to strip off and repaint 

thanks for your help, since I can’t strip the model and repaint it, I already have the decals on and all, I’m going to try to add a gloss coat first. 

I also have one more question, 

do I need to thin the humbrol gloss coat 50/50 with water? Since it is an acrtlylic paint 

Hi Dutch-modeler

Gloss does not contain flattening agent, so you should not encounter case of gloss coat frosting up. Assuming, of course, the frosting is due to the flattening agent. Whether it will clear up the existing frosting in your case, just give it a try I guess and do let us know the outcome.

Do note that if its semi-gloss, some flattening agent would be present. 

Hope that helps. 

Edited to add, thinning will not be the factor affecting frosting in the case of gloss. However do thin to be able to airbrush it well. 

Dutch-modeler

do I need to thin the humbrol gloss coat 50/50 with water? Since it is an acrtlylic paint 

 

Agree with Phil_H. Using water to thin would not be ideal. 

Thanks for the Help

Thanks for the Help!

In relation to your original problem, I came across this on the Humbrol site:

Tip: Humbrol Matt or Satin Products: Misting

The white misting effect which can occasionally be seen when using Humbrol Matt or Satin products is actually caused by deposits of the matting agent, usually caused by the product not being stirred thoroughly or regularly enough. However, this can easily be rectified by applying a coat of gloss varnish which will dissolve the matting agent deposits. A coat of Matt or Satin varnish can then be re-applied.

Please Note: All Humbrol products must be used at room temperature for them to mix and work correctly.

Well I guess I just created myself a weathering dummy...

I applied a gloss coat over the humbrol mat coat, but unfortunately it didn’t Work and I still got a spitfire snow diorama.... ;D 

I applied Alclad aqua gloss since this product did a great job on my Revell B-17G 1/48

It is not yet finished, still need to do some weathering and add yellow tips to the propellers. (Sorry for the mess in the background and the unfinished model...) I’ll also Upload a topic on this one later. 

I don’t know what I’m going to do with the spitfire. I thing I‘ll finish it and use it as a test dummy for al my weathering processes, since I never done any weathering yet. This spitfire is my third model ever and the B-17G was my second 

Shaken not stirred works for 007 but not when it comes to paint.

I NEVER shake my paints. Why? Just because of what hapenned to you. Shaking also gets the paint under the cap creating a mess specially with the tin lid from Humbrol so wipe them clean to help reduce paint buildup around the tin lip. I always stir for at least a couple of minutes using a wood coffee stirring stick making sure everything is blended specially the bottom where it usually clumps up. Shaking will not blend the thick clumping globs at the bottom of the container.

Most of the time spraying clear gloss like Future will get rid of that frosting and hopefully it will save your paint finish. This is part of the learning process of this hobby.

Yeah I agreed on the fact that it is a case of try and error. eventhough this model was a failur I still continued. I already applied some weathering using tamiya’s weathiring kit. 

You might have to take a close look at the photo’s I made due to the flash on my model 

I don’t mind this model being a complete failure, because I have many more 1/48 kits waiting to be build and this being a 1/72 scale, it didn’t Fit my collection anyway. Not that it isn’t s nice kit though. I also already have an 1/48 spitfire from revell waiting to be build... 

Dutch-modeler

                                                         Eventhough this model was a failur I still continued. I already applied some weathering using tamiya’s weathiring kit. 

~

Dutch, this may have been a failure for you but I think you solved a problem for me. I've been looking for a way to produce that very haze effect to replicate sun-baked paint. I'm going to give your "mistake" a try! And look again at your first picture - that's one heck of a good looking combat weary aircraft :)

In any case, I hope your repair job works out.

Cheers,

Russ

[quote user="Striker8241” 

 I've been looking for a way to produce that very haze effect to replicate sun-baked paint. 

[/quote]

If you make a wash out of yellow ochre artist oil paint you will get that sun baked faded look. Go easy with the filters cause it’s a very strong color.

Thanks, PJ. I'll give it a try!

Enamel clear coats often do that .Try “Gauzy Shine Enchancer” an acrylic clear gloss product which goes on enamel or acrylic finishes.Dries fast and strong.It never ruin any type of finish.Spray w/ out thinning.Its on google and eBay.

Dutch-modeler

if you look closely the model has this white shade on it.

So now my question is, what did I do wrong?

you did wrong by trying to correct it!! Goddamn, that's one masterfully weathered plane my eyes have seen on here.....make more "mistakes" like that and you'll need a trophy case in your house.  It's crazy we read all kinds of weathering articles to improve and then you...you just....make it happen with no effort? Hey man, are you toying with us??? LOLOL

Try buffing it out with a mild abrasive. Tamiya makes polishing paste, and I've heard some people have used toothpaste. 

Buff with the finest wet sanding paper you can find, very wet, or try the nail buffing sticks from the £/€/$-shop, wet. 

Bin the Humbrol gloss, I've never had much luck with it, Other options are Minitaire D6-198 Satin, Valejo 70.470 Gloss Medium & (Favourites, Winsor & Newton Galeria mat, satin & Gloss Varnishes.

Hi there, i’m amazed by the fact that even one and a half year later people are still replying on my topic. Thanks for your help and I’ve read all the comments! After 3 years of modelling I’ve learned a lot. I also started using lacquer paints and I bought a face mask with proper air filters. I can really recommend using “Zero-Paints” their lacquer paints. Right now I also use a lot of allclad lacquer paints. I can really, and I mean really, recommend using their products since you can hardly go wrong with them. Zero-paints their primer for instance is a ready to go, pre thinned primer which sprays easy and covers great. It also leaves a perfect flat surface, even If you havo almost no experience with an airbrush. After this you can sand it with a 2000 grit sandpaper. Than you put on the desired color, from zero paints as well. You also sand this with a 2000 grid sandpaper. For the gloss clear coats I can recommend using “Allclad lacquer” their gloss paints. They have a couple of clear coat versions. I put 4 medium layers of this on my model. After this I let it dry for 48 hours. Then I start polishing with tamiya their polishing compounds. This will give you a result which you see on real cars. Currently I’m building a Porsche 917 and these products turned out like a dream! I also started using Photo etch parts and seat belt sets. Once I polished this model I will upload a photo of this to this topic as well even though I know this is an aircrafts only forum. Just to give you an example of what you can accomplish with lacquer paints.

Ofcourse the polishing and gloss layers are only needed if you want to get a shiny result which you see on a car. (A Porsche 917 race car for instance) but even with other finishes like a matt finish I can still recommend using lacquer paints. To me Zero-paints are a bit expensive but they are very easy to use. just use a low PSI with your airbrush (20/25) and a small nozzle. 

I have not posted anything on this forum for a while so I thought it was a good opportunity to say Hi again with this comment!