Bf109 E4/7 1/48 WIP pre shading done

If you don't want to perforate the whole model, one option is to only rivet along the panel lines.  You should look for drawings with the rivet pattern, however.  I am no BF-109 expert, but I don't think all the panel lines on the fuse have rivets next to them.

kensar

If you don't want to perforate the whole model, one option is to only rivet along the panel lines.  You should look for drawings with the rivet pattern, however.  I am no BF-109 expert, but I don't think all the panel lines on the fuse have rivets next to them.

 

 

indeed, I decided to only add rivets along the panel lines, but even those are missing on some places and I don’t know where to add them and not 

I have the exact RB Productiions tool and it is great. I can help with the rivet questions. Also go here for great photos of the actual plane: https://www.cybermodeler.com/aircraft/bf109/bf109e_walk1.shtml The rivets show up crystical clear. In fact, enter "Bf109 walkaround" for other photos of the plane. The fuselage rivets look to be further spaced than the wing rivets. Your rivet tool kit has rivet wheels with different spacings.

This a wing of my B-29. I used photos of the actual plane as a guide for my rivet spacing. It is not 100% accurate, but it is a good repersentation of the real thing. I don't try to be 100% accurate. Not possible. The wing is finished in Bare Metal Foil, but adding rivets to a painted surface works the same way.  As noted above, rivets are on both sides of all panel lines. Next, I added rivets front to back, and side to side. What is absolutely important  is the the rivets are straight and equally spaced within each panel. 

I use a ruler to equally space the rivets and mark the spacing with a fine point marker. Just make sure that the marker marks can be removed from your paint. I then use a flexable plastic guide to help keep the rivet lines straight. Go slow. The rivets lines must be straight. Wavey rivet lines look terrible.

I cut up an old plastic lettering guide. Whatever you use, it must be flexable to go around curved surfaces.

This is my B-24J. Note the double rivet lines at each panel seam. 

First try making rivets on scrap plastic. Go slow, equally space the rivets, make straight rivet lines, and take your time. I'm sure that you will be a master rivet maker in no time!!!

JohnnyK

I have the exact RB Productiions tool and it is great. I can help with the rivet questions. Also go here for great photos of the actual plane: https://www.cybermodeler.com/aircraft/bf109/bf109e_walk1.shtml The rivets show up crystical clear. In fact, enter "Bf109 walkaround" for other photos of the plane. The fuselage rivets look to be further spaced than the wing rivets. Your rivet tool kit has rivet wheels with different spacings.

This a wing of my B-29. It is not 100% accurate, but it is a good repersentation of the real thing. I don't try to be 100% accurate. Not possible. The wing is finished in Bare Metal Foil, but adding rivets to a painted surface works the same way.  As noted above, rivets are on both sides of all panel lines. Next, I added rivets front to back, and side to side. What is absolutely important  is the the rivets are straight and equally spaced within each panel. 

I use a ruler to equally space the rivets and mark the spacing with a fine point marker. Just make sure that the marker marks can be removed from your paint. I then use a flexable plastic guide to help keep the rivet lines straight. Go slow. The rivets lines must be straight. Wavey rivet lines look terrible.

I cut up an old plastic lettering guide. Whatever you use, it must be flexable to go around curved surfaces.

This is my B-24J. Note the double rivet lines at each panel seam. 

 

First try making rivets on scrap plastic. Go slow, equally space the rivets, make straight rivet lines, and take your time. I'm sure that you will be a master rivet maker in no time!!!

 

 

thanks for the help, I’ve seen your B-29/24J before and they look absolutely beautiful!!! Great work with the foil. I agree that I first need to practice on a peace of plastic, I’ll also mark the riveting lines on my model with a pencil. Thanks for all the tips and tricks and Keep on modelling!!

I am sure that you will do a great job and that your rivets will look great!!!

JohnnyK

I am sure that you will do a great job and that your rivets will look great!!!

 

my first rivets are added! I really enjoyed the riveting. It adds even more detail and it looks awesome!!!

I did both wings in the same way, but should I add more? 

my rivet lines somethimes went slightly off but it looks fine to me. You might need to zoom in to see every detail.

I also changed the topic to WIP to show some buidling steps along the way building this kit.

That's a good start. Take a look at this picture:https://www.net-maquettes.com/pictures/messerschmitt-bf-109e/

If you are going to add more rivets, try using a smaller rivet wheel. Usually the rivets that are within each panel are smaller that the rivets along the edge of the panel. Don't put the paint on too thick or it might cover the rivets.

JohnnyK

That's a good start. Take a look at this picture:https://www.net-maquettes.com/pictures/messerschmitt-bf-109e/

If you are going to add more rivets, try using a smaller rivet wheel. Usually the rivets that are within each panel are smaller that the rivets along the edge of the panel. Don't put the paint on too thick or it might cover the rivets.

 

thanks for the tips and the link, these photos are amazing eventhough the plane is damaged!

Also, were the flaps made from fabric? Since al the aluminium was still intact but all the flaps were gone, just the frame was left.

thanks for your help!

hi all, yesterday I finished the cockpit, I almost screwed up because I used Hombrull their mate coat, and as before it turned out like a white wash. Even though I stirred it, thinned it and applied it in thin coats. But fortunately a wash with tamiya their panel liner fixed the problem and it turned out fine.

Also the decalls didn’t fit on the instrument panel so I just dry brushed aluminium on the panel and applied red on the buttons where needed.

I’m happy with the results! 

Today I finally finished the primer and now it is time for some pre shading with flat white. But first the pictures of the primer coat, some people said that the rivets I made would be covered under the primer coat alone but the rivets are still visible very good

I have one question though, what do you guys think about pre shading? This is also my first time pre shading.

So I recently finished the pre shading on my 109 so here are the results.

I used my new airbrush, the badger sotar 20/20 which is amazing at doing fine lines. I bought this airbrush from amazon for €94,00.