Making Replacement Windows?

Mopar Madness

So after trying out a few materials, it looks like the Micro Krystal Kleer will be my best option.  I’m pleasantly surprised.

 

Certainly looks the part!

I have done a few using Testors clear glue. Looks just as good.

Over time though, it gets very brittle, and very easy to jack up...but they're easily replaced.

When I did them, they were about the last thing I did. I'd put masking tape on the inside, in a way that it can be easily removed with tweezers...after all the finish work is done. Then make the windows.

That’s pretty good....Thanks for the photo!  

So after trying out a few materials, it looks like the Micro Krystal Kleer will be my best option.  I’m pleasantly surprised.

I just laid down a coat of Microscale Kleer, basically the same thing. I’ll let you know how it turns out.

You’re welcome. If you go through with it, please show pics of how it turns out!:)

Thanks guys! The windows are only 1/4” x 1/4” so I might give it a shot. 

I have had some success using white glue in the manner described.  But only with fairly small windows or lights.  Larger windows have always sagged on me.

I just recently got a glue for clear parts (pic below):

On the back, it has directions for making windows (pic below, I added highlights):

jeaton01

I would use plastic from a CD case, that is about as clear plastic gets and it polishes well, too.  As Fermis said, cut the hole larger so you can put in a larger than necessary piece of clear, let it stick above the plastic surface, and sand and polish to conform to the skin.  Mask to the size of the window and paint.

I have used clear epoxy on small windows with good results but you do have to be careful to not entrain air.  I apply the epoxy just like white glue, with a toothpick and work from the outside in.  I put in the epoxy from inside the window and just let it sag outside.  If not enough epoxy is applied the first time you can add more in layers and it will not be visible.  It takes awhile to harden, (as much as a week) but when it is cured it can be sanded back to conform to the outside skin. I did the windows on my DH-125 with this method.

 

 

I tried the CA method last night but the window frosted over.  I might have to give the clear acetate a go. 

I went to an office supply store and bought a box of cheap document covers. These are made of clear acetate similar to the transparency sheets they use to use for overhead projectors. It is thin, clear, flexible, bendable, Easy to trim/cut, and does not fog up with CA glues. I use them in place of the clear side windows on aircraft even if the kit windows are fine. It was $6.00 for a box of 25. About 200 models worth of suppy. LOL

Thank you everyone!!

I would use plastic from a CD case, that is about as clear plastic gets and it polishes well, too.  As Fermis said, cut the hole larger so you can put in a larger than necessary piece of clear, let it stick above the plastic surface, and sand and polish to conform to the skin.  Mask to the size of the window and paint.

I have used clear epoxy on small windows with good results but you do have to be careful to not entrain air.  I apply the epoxy just like white glue, with a toothpick and work from the outside in.  I put in the epoxy from inside the window and just let it sag outside.  If not enough epoxy is applied the first time you can add more in layers and it will not be visible.  It takes awhile to harden, (as much as a week) but when it is cured it can be sanded back to conform to the outside skin. I did the windows on my DH-125 with this method.

If the "thermo-formed" plastic doesn't work, you might try just using some clear, plastic bottles to cut windows out of (such as soda bottles).  I used an empty mouth-wash bottle recently to cut out windows for a spacecraft model.  You might luck out and find one with exactly the curvature you need.  You can cut this stuff with scissors and sand it to shape, so it's very versatile.  Good luck with whatever method you use!

Gary

The couple times I've ran into this issue...I cut masks, using the kit parts and set them aside, first. Then, "thermo-formed" clear palstic over the fuselage near where the window should be (to get the rounded shape). I cut out a square/rectangle, a bit bigger than the window itself, in the fuselage. Cut the clear part to fit the bigger square. Glue into place, and place mask where window should be. Being bigger, the edges can be cleaned up nicely, without messing up what you want to be clear.

I think you are on the right track.  Try again, but use gap filler CA glue.  Pour slowly and tease out air bubbles with a pin.  After the CA sets, sand and polish inside and out.  Don’t forget to pre-paint the window openings.