Opinions on weathering please

To me, the wings look too spotty for the amount of chipped paint, tho the wing root and fuselage look pretty good - but I ain't no expert and have to hand it to you for trying something I would be afraid to do.

I'd go with wibhi2.

Best bet would be to focus the paint chipping to the edges of access panels on the wings, but the wear, especially around the wing root looks good.

Did you see the article on salt weathing in FSM a few months back. Well worth a look, if only to see how others have approached the scruffy Japanese aircraft issue.

Karl

I agree, chipping on that scale can be very scary. I would suggest coming back over your silver and stabbing some base green back into it - just a little bit. For future reference, I think salt chipping works a lot better for large scale paint chipping like on the Japanese aircraft. I think that after a little more work and some additional weathering you will have a nice piece there, keep us posted.

I think you are trying for two different effects. Paint is both worn and chipped. For worn paint, you nailed it right on at the wing root and around the canopy. But other areas look more worn, or even mottled, than chipped, and these are areas that will not see any use.

Paint on Japanese planes flaked off due to poor prep of the aluminum before painting, so the paint should look like it has peeled off. The best way is to do a base coat with enamel aluminum, then a top coat with the chosen color in an acrylic, then get a picture and chip and peel the paint in reference to the pic. I use toothpicks and a dental pick. You can still do this with you model by just applying the green and chip away.

Then do a wash of diluted charcoal or black to tone down the aluminum and make it blend.
Your doing a great job so far.
Scott

i agree with all the above. when i first looked at the pics. before reading the comments i thought it looked uneven. but the comment spotty is better. you have tackled a tough assignment though. the effort in itself deserves a well done.

joe

the guys have given you some very good advice.
The only thing I would add is to look at and compare
your model with real pictures of japanese aircraft
to get an idea where the chips go.

good job ,it takes courage to try new things.

Although late war Japanese AC were notorious paint peelers, the effect you show seems to be very random and somewhat overdone. Most chipping would occur on the inboard leading edge of the wings and front cowl lip due to debree being thrown back by prop wash, also around all access panels for maintenance, and on the wing roots and fuselage sides where pilots would scuff up the paint during entry & egress. It appears that you sprayed or brushed the aluminum over the green and it gives more of a mottled camo effect rather than resembling chipping. Good suggestions in other posts here on techniques, but I would add a suggestion to try a Silver Prismacolor oil pencil for more control on areas noted above. You also mention adding rust. Aircraft from this era were primarily made of aluminum, plywood, and fabric, so rust would be problematic on a model. Aluminum did oxidize into duller, darker tones, however, and I have seen some excellent models where some of the chipping was in dark alumunum, representing old chipping, and some in brighter silver representing new chipping.

I kind of thought that the weathering looked a bit too "planned", if that makes any sense. I think everyone above gave you some awesome tips though, and I wish you the best. I know what you mean avbout weathering being scary, and I bow to your bravery!!!

Here is a very informative article, from the j-aircraft site.
http://j-aircraft.com/research/weathering_question.htm

I'm of the opinion that there are more models of Japanese aircraft with "shreaded" paint than there were actual aircraft that lost paint. Until very late in the war, most shipboard IJN aircraft were primed. The severe loss of paint (most notably "Bettys" & "Nells") was mostly found on land-based aircraft. I guess what I'm saying is, if its Japanese, it doesn't have to be severly chipped.

The chipping seems a little feathery as though it had been airbushed. Sorry.
Why don't you try the slat method shown in Finescale's August 2003 issue? Good Luck

Sorry typing error The 'slat' should be salt.

Thanks everyone,
All your advice and feedback is well taken and very much appreciated. I can't learn if I don't ask . I am reading and rereading through all your posts and planning my strategy on how to go about touching up my work and get it to look hopefully more authentic.
Pixilater - thanks - that is a very informative article and good reading.
When I get to a spot where I hope things are looking for the better I will post some more pics and would like all your feedback again.

Thanks again, you guys are great.
Wayne