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Project Look-Alike aluminized lacquer

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  • Member since
    February 2013
Project Look-Alike aluminized lacquer
Posted by tomwatkins45 on Saturday, February 8, 2020 8:57 AM

I've got a 1/48 F-100D that I want to do in a late '50s- early '60s USAFE scheme. It would be painted in the "silver" aluminized lacquer. I don't have any Floquil old silver, which I have used in the long ago past. I'm looking for suggestions for a suitable alternative. I prefer enamels or lacquers.

Thanks in Advance,

Tom

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, February 8, 2020 9:10 AM

I love Alclad.  I use Aluminum, but if I want a highly polished finish I use their Polished Aluminum.  They take some effort- you must use a base of perfect gloss black, which can be a challenge, but worth it.  For the polished version, you must dial the flow way back and slowly build up the reflectance.  If you go too far it starts to dull.

I would recommend a practice piece to start with before trying on your model.  Use scrap plastic (many people use plastic spoons for test pieces).

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Saturday, February 8, 2020 9:38 AM

Alclad has a high speed silver in its range which looks the part. Also try their dull aluminum or white aluminum. 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2013
Posted by tomwatkins45 on Saturday, February 8, 2020 10:20 AM

I use the Alclads quite a bit for unpainted metal areas and really like them. I've got their dull aluminum and white aluminum here and will look at their high speed silver.

Thanks,

Tom

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Saturday, February 8, 2020 11:14 AM

Model Master Metalizer non buffable Aluminum is a good option for aluminum lacquer. 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    February 2013
Posted by tomwatkins45 on Saturday, February 8, 2020 11:18 AM

I'll take a look at this too.

Thanks

Tom

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Saturday, February 8, 2020 4:02 PM

Hello!

Since this is supposed to be silver paint, wouldn't it be right to use silver paint, like Humbrol 11 and not top shelf metalizer (Alclad)?

Have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    February 2013
Posted by tomwatkins45 on Saturday, February 8, 2020 4:25 PM

That's what I was thinking, but it would have to be very finely ground pigment. I think that's why the Floquil old silver was so popular (and of course the overall Floquil quality).  I think I'm going to spray some test panels to see what looks good.

Thanks,

Tom

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Far Northern CA
Posted by mrmike on Saturday, February 8, 2020 4:38 PM

Too bad about Floquil in general and the Old Silver in particular. I read a build article using Citadel Mythril (spelling?) Silver as a substitute; in this case for British High Speed Silver, an aluminized paint for early RAF jets. Have yet to try it, but it may be worth a look.

  • Member since
    February 2013
Posted by tomwatkins45 on Saturday, February 8, 2020 4:43 PM

I'm not at all familiar with the Citadel paints. I'll have to look into that. I also should see what Hataka has available in their orange line lacquers. They spray very well, and remind me a lot of the old pre-Testors Floquil.

Thanks,

Tom

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Inverness, IL (suburb of Chicago)
Posted by JohnnyK on Saturday, February 8, 2020 8:00 PM

Bare Metal Foil

  • Member since
    February 2013
Posted by tomwatkins45 on Saturday, February 8, 2020 8:31 PM

No, While I respect and admire people that can foil entire models, I'm better off sticking with paint. I can usually manage foil on oleo struts, but that's about it.

Thanks,

Tom

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, February 9, 2020 9:45 AM

Pawel

Hello!

Since this is supposed to be silver paint, wouldn't it be right to use silver paint, like Humbrol 11 and not top shelf metalizer (Alclad)?

Have a nice day

Paweł

 

If I was suggesting a paint like that, I’d go with Testors square bottle Aluminum. Or their Model Master equivalent. Tamiya Aluminum looks good as the lacquer as well.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    February 2013
Posted by tomwatkins45 on Sunday, February 9, 2020 10:01 AM

I've airbrushed the MM aluminum before. It sprays very well, but is maybe a liitle too grainy for the right "scale" look. Some experimentation may be needed. Where is that box of plastic spoons?

Thanks,

Tom

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Inverness, IL (suburb of Chicago)
Posted by JohnnyK on Sunday, February 9, 2020 10:46 AM

How about Testors' Metalizer Aluminum Plate. I find that it does not rubb off once it is buffed to a shiny finish.

  • Member since
    February 2013
Posted by tomwatkins45 on Sunday, February 9, 2020 4:03 PM

I think I've got some of that. I'll give it a try.

Thanks,

Tom

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Sunday, February 9, 2020 5:03 PM

Tom;

 Before you commit to a type, try some of this. It's called "Rub-n-Buff" Polished Silver. They also have Gold, Antique silver, Bronze ,Antique Bronze and Polished Copper that I know of. I have used it before with great success. The last time was on a very Large B-36 I did for a relative. he still wipes it down occassionally and says it is still shiny.

 It's used by ,or used to be used by, Photo and Art framers to creat that old classic look or on a restoration for a very old frame. Remember some of those frames had plaster embellishments that Had to look the part!    P.S. I believe they now have Old Pewter and Polished Pewter!

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Batesville, IN
Posted by ggatt_2 on Sunday, February 9, 2020 5:40 PM

Do you have any tips for applying the stuff? Someone used it in another modeling magazine several years ago so I bought a tube. Still have the tube but never used it. I no longer have the magazine and forgot what the author did. 

-Greg

  • Member since
    February 2013
Posted by tomwatkins45 on Sunday, February 9, 2020 6:17 PM

I've used Rub 'N Buff before, a very long time ago. Done well, and I'm not saying I did it well, it can look good. I think I'm going to stick with an airbrushable liquid, though.

Thanks,

Tom

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, February 10, 2020 1:44 PM

A problem I had with R&B was that decals did not stick well to it.  Paint stuck even worse.  I believe the stuff had a wax base to it.  I avoid anything with wax around my models, including auto body polishes.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    February 2013
Posted by tomwatkins45 on Tuesday, February 11, 2020 8:13 AM

This is true. A very good friend and modeling mentor liked to say that it is well named, because you can always rub it, and you can always buff it. It never actually dries. On another note, I was prowling on ebay a couple of days ago and found a bottle of Floquil old silver at what is for these days a reasonable price. It should be here in a few days. Hoarded carefully, it should be a lifetime supply for Project Look-Alike birds.

Thanks,

Tom

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Inverness, IL (suburb of Chicago)
Posted by JohnnyK on Tuesday, February 11, 2020 1:41 PM

Don Stauffer

A problem I had with R&B was that decals did not stick well to it.  Paint stuck even worse.  I believe the stuff had a wax base to it.  I avoid anything with wax around my models, including auto body polishes.

 

 

I was going to finish my B-29 in R&B. I did a test on my test plane and I agree with Don. I could not get decals to stick on it. Plus, even after I buffed it, it still came off on my fingers. So I instead finished my B-29 in Bare Metal Foil.

 

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Inverness, IL (suburb of Chicago)
Posted by JohnnyK on Tuesday, February 11, 2020 4:35 PM

JohnnyK

How about Testors' Metalizer Aluminum Plate. I find that it does not rubb off once it is buffed to a shiny finish.

 

If you really burnish the Metalizer Paint with either a cotton ball or a Q-tip you will not need the Metalizer Sealer which, IMHO, ruins the appearance of the Metalizer paint. Keep in mind that you need to burnish really hard.

  • Member since
    February 2013
Posted by tomwatkins45 on Tuesday, February 11, 2020 6:05 PM

The metalizers do work very well, although I think the Alclads are more durable. I like being able to mask over them. Your foiled aircraft are beautiful. I really enjoy watching you WIP's on them.

Thanks,

Tom

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Washington State
Posted by leemitcheltree on Sunday, February 16, 2020 3:23 PM

Mate, Model Master make some GREAT metallic paints...LOTS of colors....but it's fragile - fingerprints mar it easily and decals are problematic. I use it in spots that won't need manual handling.
Alclad, on the other hand...THAT stuff dries HARD. Bulletproof. Lay down a good coat of closs black or gloss white (depending on the look you need) and you'll be amazed. Even chrome. The stuff is fantastic.

 

Cheers, LeeTree
Remember, Safety Fast!!!

  • Member since
    June 2008
Posted by lewbud on Sunday, February 16, 2020 5:13 PM

You might try Tamiya's rattlecan Bare Metal (AS-12 I think) over their gloss black as a base.  Here's what it looks like.

Buddy- Those who say there are no stupid questions have never worked in customer service.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, February 16, 2020 5:33 PM

Here are some “Lookalike” Thuds on their way to Vietnam via Hickham AFB. As you can see, the lacquer is rather dull in appearance.

 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Inverness, IL (suburb of Chicago)
Posted by JohnnyK on Sunday, February 16, 2020 6:01 PM

tomwatkins45

The metalizers do work very well, although I think the Alclads are more durable. I like being able to mask over them. Your foiled aircraft are beautiful. I really enjoy watching you WIP's on them.

Thanks,

Tom

 

Thanks for the kind words.

  • Member since
    February 2013
Posted by tomwatkins45 on Sunday, February 16, 2020 6:10 PM

JohnnyK, you are very welcome. I look forward to seeing more of your foiled AC. Stickpusher, that's a very good photo of Look-Alike birds. The finish was not at all "shiny" and was very uniform overall. It did look like very smooth aluminum paint. I'm looking forward to seeing if this fresh (new-old) Old Silver duplicates it as well as my memory says it does.

Thanks to All

Tom

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, February 16, 2020 8:36 PM

Yes, the Lookalike birds were nowhere near as shiny and reflective as the original NMF Huns.

 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

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